Cleaning and finishing 1858

rfalcon · April 20, 2016, 06:27 PM

Don't know if anyone's interested, but I thought I post photos of the cleaning and refinishing process for my 1858. After disassembly, my only concern is some of the screw threads seem a bit worn. Don't know if I can replace them, or just add loctite as I reassemble.

rfalcon · April 20, 2016, 06:32 PM

Cleaned the finish from the cylinder, and did an initial polish of it and the trigger guard. The cylinder has a dark corrosion spot I'm not certain if I can media blast out. Maybe just have to do a black finish to hide it. Worked the sharp edges of the hammer marks from the cylinder a bit. Needs some more work, but slow and easy...

Doc Hoy · April 21, 2016, 08:00 PM

This is good stuff

rfalcon · April 21, 2016, 08:27 PM

I'm still kind of messing, to figure out what I want to do. Cleaned, oiled and reassembled it, just to prove to myself I could. Made a template for new grips. Have some wood I'd like to use, but the stock (of wood) isn't wide enough.

rfalcon · April 21, 2016, 08:29 PM

So I spent time reblueing the cylinder to see how it would take.

The rust spot is still visible but doesn't jump out at you.

deerslayer303 · April 21, 2016, 08:32 PM

Yes, keep them coming. I like threads like this. You really should go touch her off a time or two. Then you will REALLY have the bug, trust me.

rfalcon · April 21, 2016, 08:50 PM

I'll definitely shoot it when I'm - I promise. I have no 'gunsafe queens'.

BlackPowderBen · April 21, 2016, 10:51 PM

The 1858 is a very reliable cap and ball revolver. You'll like that gun, like deerslayer said, you'll have the bug

rfalcon · April 23, 2016, 05:41 PM

Well - grabbed a piece of 1/2 in thick oak baseboard from the scraps bin, fired up the bench sander, and started shaping a handgrip. Wasn't doing too bad until I accidental/y sanded off the small cutoff at the top of the backstrap. Oh well. Wondering how I can convince my wife I really need a benchtop jigsaw...

rodwhaincamo · April 24, 2016, 12:35 AM

Go shoot it first.

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 06:49 AM

Probably should. Watched a few videos the loading process. Seems within my limited skill set lol. Do people still grease the end of the cylinder to prevent a chain fire after loading if they're using the wonderpads? I've seen it done both ways...

BlackPowderBen · April 24, 2016, 07:09 AM

You can do either or none, there's a big controversy about chain fires

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 07:11 AM

On initial attempts, since I have no mentor on the scene (can probably find one at the sportsman association) I'd probably be more comfortable with the 'safe than sorry' motto.

Hawg · April 24, 2016, 09:25 AM

You don't need lube over the ball with wads. Neither way is specifically to avoid chain fires but they do work for that if you have a chamber that's out of round or the balls are too hard etc. Some say that powder can get crushed between a ball and chamber and make a path for fire to get to the main charge and I believe that. Some say chains come from the nipple end but I don't believe that at all. I mostly use wads but if you decide to go with over ball lube something like Crisco will work but it gets really runny in summer heat. I use a beeswax/olive oil(or Crisco mix. You do not need to pack the end of the chambers full. All that's going to do is blow all over the gun and make a mess. Just a little around the edge of the ball is all you need. The lube is to keep fouling soft.

44 Dave · April 24, 2016, 09:44 AM

As far as "the little ring of lead" that should be sheared off when seating the ball I have one gun that has a chamfer to the chambers and swedges the ball in tight. I think .454 balls are your best bet.

Hawg · April 24, 2016, 11:23 AM

Quote:

I think .454 balls are your best bet.

Definitely use .454 balls.

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 03:26 PM

Thanks for the good advice. No substitute for experience...

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 03:28 PM

Powder and charge weight to go with those .454 ball? Please...

Biggest problem is going to be seeing that thin sight blade lol. May put a wad of chewing gum on top...

Hawg · April 24, 2016, 06:22 PM

Powder would be 3F or equivalent altho 2F will work just fine. I use 30 grains but most will give you weak numbers like 18-22 for best accuracy. I don't punch paper and as long as I can hit Coke cans at 25 yards more often than not I'm happy. With the original height front sight it's going to hit high, very high unless you're shooting at 75 yards or so.

BirchOrr · April 24, 2016, 06:53 PM

1.) Start with 20 grains by volume and go up until you lose accuracy. You will find what the pistol likes.

2.) I agree with Hawg in that lube is not necessary if you use wads.

3.) I hate to say this because it will open a can of worms but, I don't think it's impossible for a chain fire to happen from the nipple end. In fact, I think it's much more probable to happen from a poorly fitting cap. (I could be out to lunch here but would rather err on the side of caution). Far too many guys use caps that don't fit properly, "pinch them" etc. and that being said, I've never had a chain fire. (Knock on wood).

4.) This is not necessary, but when I get a new pistol and before I even fire it, I replace the nipples with AMPCO/Treso nipples that use a #11 cap. This way, everything I own uses the same caps. They fit TIGHT on the nipple and I have no problems.

5.) This being said, 1.) I don't have to monkey around and remember what pistol uses what size cap. 2.) I LOVE shooting my BP firearms. When I do have the opportunity, I grab my stuff and go. Everything is the same.

6.) I am doing it properly to the best of my ability and knowledge including safety.

7.) I love this (sport?) and could care less what it costs me to have fun doing something I love doing.

This is the best advice I can muster. Everyone here is neither right or wrong but you will hear their opinion!

All the best to you gentleman,

Birch

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 07:30 PM

Thanks for the advice.

Like I said, Hawg, I probably won't be able see the front sight anyway lol. I think most guns designed for battle, even modern ones, are sighted for longer distances. Just my thought - may not be acuurate.

I suspect the 1858 reprise weren't made with a standard cap size in mind. Or are they normally one or the other?

Hawg · April 24, 2016, 08:11 PM

Remington #10 seem to be about the best fit for most. I prefer CCI as I get a lot of Remington's with missing compound. I do have a couple that take #11 tho.

rfalcon · April 24, 2016, 08:18 PM

Guess I'll pick up some #10 and check if the fit. Pity the nipples aren't marked somehow - or can the be measured with a gauge?

Tinbucket · April 24, 2016, 08:34 PM

I use .454 balls but I use even .457. Little more effort to shave excess lea but it gives a heavier loaded bullet and long bearing surface in the lands. I use two to three lubed wads. 30 grains of Triple Seven isn't too much in an 1858 army, if it is steel.
I've had chain fire from nipple end. Bad nipples not even or level.
Replaced with stainless. There ar some super hard super durable nipples listed, on the Internet but haven't ordered them to try.

44 Dave · April 24, 2016, 11:04 PM

CCI caps will not "stretch" as easily as Remington, if you use a push stick of some type 10s will fit quite a few. Having said that I remember that Euro Arms have short cones. I had one with worn nipples that I would file just a bit off each cap to use Rem.#10s before I put new nipples on it.

April 21, 2016, 08:00 PM	#3
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Keep the photos coming. This is good stuff __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

April 21, 2016, 08:32 PM	#6
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,653	Yes, keep them coming. I like threads like this. You really should go touch her off a time or two. Then you will REALLY have the bug, trust me. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

April 21, 2016, 10:51 PM	#8
BlackPowderBen Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2015 Posts: 380	The 1858 is a very reliable cap and ball revolver. You'll like that gun, like deerslayer said, you'll have the bug __________________ "If you have to shoot, shoot! Dont talk"

April 24, 2016, 07:09 AM	#12
BlackPowderBen Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2015 Posts: 380	You can do either or none, there's a big controversy about chain fires __________________ "If you have to shoot, shoot! Dont talk"

April 24, 2016, 06:53 PM	#20
BirchOrr Senior Member Join Date: November 25, 2012 Location: Eaton Rapids, MI Posts: 445	Powder by volume 1.) Start with 20 grains by volume and go up until you lose accuracy. You will find what the pistol likes. 2.) I agree with Hawg in that lube is not necessary if you use wads. 3.) I hate to say this because it will open a can of worms but, I don't think it's impossible for a chain fire to happen from the nipple end. In fact, I think it's much more probable to happen from a poorly fitting cap. (I could be out to lunch here but would rather err on the side of caution). Far too many guys use caps that don't fit properly, "pinch them" etc. and that being said, I've never had a chain fire. (Knock on wood). 4.) This is not necessary, but when I get a new pistol and before I even fire it, I replace the nipples with AMPCO/Treso nipples that use a #11 cap. This way, everything I own uses the same caps. They fit TIGHT on the nipple and I have no problems. 5.) This being said, 1.) I don't have to monkey around and remember what pistol uses what size cap. 2.) I LOVE shooting my BP firearms. When I do have the opportunity, I grab my stuff and go. Everything is the same. 6.) I am doing it properly to the best of my ability and knowledge including safety. 7.) I love this (sport?) and could care less what it costs me to have fun doing something I love doing. This is the best advice I can muster. Everyone here is neither right or wrong but you will hear their opinion! All the best to you gentleman, Birch __________________ Black Powder: Not because it is easy, but because it is hard, because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills, because that challenge is one that we are willing to accept, one we are unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend to win...

April 21, 2016, 08:50 PM	#7
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	I'll definitely shoot it when I'm - I promise. I have no 'gunsafe queens'.

April 23, 2016, 05:41 PM	#9
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Well - grabbed a piece of 1/2 in thick oak baseboard from the scraps bin, fired up the bench sander, and started shaping a handgrip. Wasn't doing too bad until I accidental/y sanded off the small cutoff at the top of the backstrap. Oh well. Wondering how I can convince my wife I really need a benchtop jigsaw...

April 24, 2016, 12:35 AM	#10
rodwhaincamo Senior Member Join Date: July 7, 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 1,246	Go shoot it first.

April 24, 2016, 06:49 AM	#11
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Probably should. Watched a few videos the loading process. Seems within my limited skill set lol. Do people still grease the end of the cylinder to prevent a chain fire after loading if they're using the wonderpads? I've seen it done both ways...

April 24, 2016, 07:11 AM	#13
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	On initial attempts, since I have no mentor on the scene (can probably find one at the sportsman association) I'd probably be more comfortable with the 'safe than sorry' motto.

April 24, 2016, 09:25 AM	#14
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	You don't need lube over the ball with wads. Neither way is specifically to avoid chain fires but they do work for that if you have a chamber that's out of round or the balls are too hard etc. Some say that powder can get crushed between a ball and chamber and make a path for fire to get to the main charge and I believe that. Some say chains come from the nipple end but I don't believe that at all. I mostly use wads but if you decide to go with over ball lube something like Crisco will work but it gets really runny in summer heat. I use a beeswax/olive oil(or Crisco mix. You do not need to pack the end of the chambers full. All that's going to do is blow all over the gun and make a mess. Just a little around the edge of the ball is all you need. The lube is to keep fouling soft.

April 24, 2016, 09:44 AM	#15
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	As far as "the little ring of lead" that should be sheared off when seating the ball I have one gun that has a chamfer to the chambers and swedges the ball in tight. I think .454 balls are your best bet.

April 24, 2016, 03:26 PM	#17
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Thanks for the good advice. No substitute for experience...

April 24, 2016, 03:28 PM	#18
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Powder and charge weight to go with those .454 ball? Please... Biggest problem is going to be seeing that thin sight blade lol. May put a wad of chewing gum on top...

April 24, 2016, 06:22 PM	#19
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	Powder would be 3F or equivalent altho 2F will work just fine. I use 30 grains but most will give you weak numbers like 18-22 for best accuracy. I don't punch paper and as long as I can hit Coke cans at 25 yards more often than not I'm happy. With the original height front sight it's going to hit high, very high unless you're shooting at 75 yards or so.

April 24, 2016, 07:30 PM	#21
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Thanks for the advice. Like I said, Hawg, I probably won't be able see the front sight anyway lol. I think most guns designed for battle, even modern ones, are sighted for longer distances. Just my thought - may not be acuurate. I suspect the 1858 reprise weren't made with a standard cap size in mind. Or are they normally one or the other?

April 24, 2016, 08:11 PM	#22
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	Remington #10 seem to be about the best fit for most. I prefer CCI as I get a lot of Remington's with missing compound. I do have a couple that take #11 tho.

April 24, 2016, 08:18 PM	#23
rfalcon Member Join Date: April 19, 2016 Posts: 25	Guess I'll pick up some #10 and check if the fit. Pity the nipples aren't marked somehow - or can the be measured with a gauge?

April 24, 2016, 08:34 PM	#24
Tinbucket Senior Member Join Date: January 17, 2015 Posts: 355	Cleaaning and finishing 1858 I use .454 balls but I use even .457. Little more effort to shave excess lea but it gives a heavier loaded bullet and long bearing surface in the lands. I use two to three lubed wads. 30 grains of Triple Seven isn't too much in an 1858 army, if it is steel. I've had chain fire from nipple end. Bad nipples not even or level. Replaced with stainless. There ar some super hard super durable nipples listed, on the Internet but haven't ordered them to try.

April 24, 2016, 11:04 PM	#25
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	CCI caps will not "stretch" as easily as Remington, if you use a push stick of some type 10s will fit quite a few. Having said that I remember that Euro Arms have short cones. I had one with worn nipples that I would file just a bit off each cap to use Rem.#10s before I put new nipples on it.