UltraSonic Cleaner

Casey · January 11, 2001, 01:19 PM

Hello all.

I just bought an ultra sonic cleaner to clean my various guns with. These will include everything from a Makarov to 1911's to parts pieces of rifles. Can't wait for this to show up, as I like to shoot with clean guns, just hate to clean them.

I have looked at various posts on this site in the past about ultrasonic cleaners, and have seen that those who have these use various solutions; everything from Mobil 1 to simple green.

The concept of using Mobil 1 is intruiging. I think it was Son that said he was using Mobil 1. Son, if you are the correct person, do you use it straight? Or is it thinned with anything? Anyone else have any suggestions/ideas/warnings?

The model I have bought is a Grobet Professional, 2 quart model.

Thanks.

Casey

hksigwalther · January 11, 2001, 08:32 PM

Ordered a Branson 2510 0.75 gal. with digital timer/heater from Kassoy ($450).

Besides cleaning my guns, they are incredible for my glasses. (Use to clean them in a lab ucleaner and missed how clean my glasses got.)

Still not sure as to which cleaner to use. There are a few old posts and links to other sites concerning what people have tried for cleaning guns. Simple Green (I've read recently) might not be a good choice. The one I used in the lab at where I was employed was Micro (now Micro-90) and did a great job. Although the label says it may etch zinc and aluminum, I hadn't seen any problems in aluminum parts I had cleaned in the lab.

When I went to get my safety glasses for work one day, the guy at the eyeware placed mentioned that he had had problems of his ucleaner leaking after awhile. When he sent it back to the manufacturer, they had told him not to use chlorine containing cleaners as it had a tendency to eat away at the tank (which IIRC was stainless, do not now what grade). He now just uses Mr. Clean of all things diluted by ½. It did clean my glasses very well also, not sure how it would do against spent powder, copper, lead, etc. I'll give it a try though when I get my ucleaner.

hksigwalther · January 11, 2001, 09:34 PM

On Simple Green

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...threadid=52922

ArmySon · January 11, 2001, 10:08 PM

It really doesn't matter too much on the solution you use (use common sense here) as long as you DRY IT PROPERLY after cleaning. Failure to dry a firearm properly will result in lots of heartache. That's where many people fail to use an ultrasonic cleaner properly. By far, the best method to drying a firearm after deep cleaning is, the oven.

I've used everything from Simple Green, Brownells Ammonia Free Cleaner (part 515-191-000), distilled water, to Mobil One. I like Mobil One the best due to the lubricacity factor. If you use any other solution when deep cleaning, your firearm will come out VERY VERY dry. I learned it then hard way when I cleaned several revolvers.

I use Mobil One straight. The only way you can thin motor oil is by mixing it with a petroleum solution. Petroleum and firearm finishes do not mix well SO I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS.

I do not use an ultrasonic cleaner all the time. I use it when the firearm is EXTREMELY dirty. I would say that 1 out of every 5 cleanings I use the ultrasonic unit to completely clean the gun. It's amazing how new the frame or slide looks when you remove it from the unit.

Did you get a basket with your unit? I highly recommend it so that the gun doesn't get mixed in all the grit that sits at the bottom.

One last thing, like I stated above, be sure to dry the gun properly after the cleaning. The oven works the best but a hair dryer will also do.

Have fun and pass on your experiences.

weegee · January 12, 2001, 01:12 AM

Ultrasonics are designed to work with low-viscosity liquids, E.G. ammonia/detergent/water solutions, not with heavy fluids like motor oils. I'd be amazed if you're getting even 10 or 20% of the cleaning power the machine is capable of, using something like Mobil one.

ArmySon--"petroleum and firearm finishes don't mix well..."

I'd be willing to bet most TFL members are lubing or cleaning at least some of their guns with petroleum products on a regular basis.

Which petroleum products--and which finishes--were you referring to?

hksig and Casey:

I would strongly suggest that, as soon as you remove the gun fom the cleaning solution, you treat it to a bath in one of the 'water-displacing' solutions (Sheath, LPS-1, etc.--not wd40, of course.) This is the only way to be certain of preventing after-rust if you clean with an aqueous solution. (Possibly you could use one of the water-soluble rust-preventatives, or a soluble cutting oil, like those sold to machine shops, as an additive in your cleaning solution--it should work, but I haven't tried it.) Ultrasonic cleaning will remove every trace of oil from the gun, creating the perfect setup for 'flash rusting'.

FWIW, mechanical watches are cleaned using an agitated tank of solution, and then immediately moved into a tank containing a lubricating solution, which consists of an oil dissolved in a solvent carrier. When the movement is removed, the carrier evaporates, leaving oil in the proper places, distributed there and held there by capillary action. You need a similar phenomenon with guns.

Ultrasonic action alone, in a good machine, is strong enough to mar metal surfaces, regardless of the solution! Be SURE that you suspend your gun above the bottom. You can make hooks and racks from heavy (say, 8 gauge) copper wire from the Home Depot. Get some plastic or rubber tubing, slip it over the wire, and bend it to the configuration you need. You can 'customize' these hangers as needed to fit each gun, part, fishing reel, etc. that you want to clean, and these are way cheaper than commercially available racks.

Exercise caution using these things. Run tests on similarly finished parts, if possible, to verify the effect before risking one of your prized possessions.

Brain's fading, it's late. Just a few tips I've learned from 20+ years of using ultrasonics on an almost daily basis. Hope this helped...weegee.

ljlc · January 12, 2001, 06:24 AM

I've used MP7. It claims to have a rust inhibitor in it. They have a website for more information on ultrasonic cleaning with their prodcut. Or give them a call.

Casey · January 12, 2001, 12:54 PM

Thanks for the responses.

Yes, I got a basket with it Son. I didn't like the idea of just letting the parts sit in the bottom with the stuff that would come off them.

I don't know what to use in it yet. I had thought that the thinner solutions would work better, and have thought about getting some of the MPro7 solution. It seems to be more expensive up front, but you are supposed to be able to strain it and re-use it for a long time.

My current plans are to clean with the MPro7 cleaning solution, then bake for a while in the oven to dry it completely. Then I will lube, possibly by dunking in a tank of the MPro7 lubricant (if I can afford it).

If I can't afford the MPro stuff, I will probably use another cleaning solution in water and just be careful to lube FULLY afterwards. But if you don't dunk it in lube, I am afraid of missing parts that will be completely degreased and in need of lubricant. If I do dunk, then getting rid of all the excess will be the problem.

Casey

hksigwalther · January 12, 2001, 08:19 PM

Thanks for the great suggestions weegee.

Gary H · April 28, 2001, 08:39 PM

Here is some good information from another board. Most of the ultrasonic stuff comes after the initial cleaning suggestions. Read this as per Jeff's post:

http://www.healthsonics.com/houke.htm

This is the whole posting regarding cleaning:

http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/ub...ML/000033.html

January 11, 2001, 01:19 PM	#1
Casey Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2000 Location: Delaware, OH, USA Posts: 279	Hello all. I just bought an ultra sonic cleaner to clean my various guns with. These will include everything from a Makarov to 1911's to parts pieces of rifles. Can't wait for this to show up, as I like to shoot with clean guns, just hate to clean them. I have looked at various posts on this site in the past about ultrasonic cleaners, and have seen that those who have these use various solutions; everything from Mobil 1 to simple green. The concept of using Mobil 1 is intruiging. I think it was Son that said he was using Mobil 1. Son, if you are the correct person, do you use it straight? Or is it thinned with anything? Anyone else have any suggestions/ideas/warnings? The model I have bought is a Grobet Professional, 2 quart model. Thanks. Casey __________________ "Our job is to give people not what they want, but what we decide they ought to have." Richard Salant, former President of CBS News "To sin by silence when they should protest makes cowards of men." Abraham Lincoln

January 11, 2001, 08:32 PM	#2
hksigwalther Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 1998 Location: NE OH, USA Posts: 3,198	HEY! I just ordered one too. Ordered a Branson 2510 0.75 gal. with digital timer/heater from Kassoy ($450). Besides cleaning my guns, they are incredible for my glasses. (Use to clean them in a lab ucleaner and missed how clean my glasses got.) Still not sure as to which cleaner to use. There are a few old posts and links to other sites concerning what people have tried for cleaning guns. Simple Green (I've read recently) might not be a good choice. The one I used in the lab at where I was employed was Micro (now Micro-90) and did a great job. Although the label says it may etch zinc and aluminum, I hadn't seen any problems in aluminum parts I had cleaned in the lab. When I went to get my safety glasses for work one day, the guy at the eyeware placed mentioned that he had had problems of his ucleaner leaking after awhile. When he sent it back to the manufacturer, they had told him not to use chlorine containing cleaners as it had a tendency to eat away at the tank (which IIRC was stainless, do not now what grade). He now just uses Mr. Clean of all things diluted by ½. It did clean my glasses very well also, not sure how it would do against spent powder, copper, lead, etc. I'll give it a try though when I get my ucleaner. __________________ - Ron V.

January 11, 2001, 09:34 PM	#3
hksigwalther Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 1998 Location: NE OH, USA Posts: 3,198	new post On Simple Green http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...threadid=52922 __________________ - Ron V.

January 12, 2001, 12:54 PM	#7
Casey Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2000 Location: Delaware, OH, USA Posts: 279	Thanks for the responses. Yes, I got a basket with it Son. I didn't like the idea of just letting the parts sit in the bottom with the stuff that would come off them. I don't know what to use in it yet. I had thought that the thinner solutions would work better, and have thought about getting some of the MPro7 solution. It seems to be more expensive up front, but you are supposed to be able to strain it and re-use it for a long time. My current plans are to clean with the MPro7 cleaning solution, then bake for a while in the oven to dry it completely. Then I will lube, possibly by dunking in a tank of the MPro7 lubricant (if I can afford it). If I can't afford the MPro stuff, I will probably use another cleaning solution in water and just be careful to lube FULLY afterwards. But if you don't dunk it in lube, I am afraid of missing parts that will be completely degreased and in need of lubricant. If I do dunk, then getting rid of all the excess will be the problem. Casey __________________ "Our job is to give people not what they want, but what we decide they ought to have." Richard Salant, former President of CBS News "To sin by silence when they should protest makes cowards of men." Abraham Lincoln

January 11, 2001, 10:08 PM	#4
ArmySon Staff Alumnus Join Date: April 14, 2000 Posts: 2,926	It really doesn't matter too much on the solution you use (use common sense here) as long as you DRY IT PROPERLY after cleaning. Failure to dry a firearm properly will result in lots of heartache. That's where many people fail to use an ultrasonic cleaner properly. By far, the best method to drying a firearm after deep cleaning is, the oven. I've used everything from Simple Green, Brownells Ammonia Free Cleaner (part 515-191-000), distilled water, to Mobil One. I like Mobil One the best due to the lubricacity factor. If you use any other solution when deep cleaning, your firearm will come out VERY VERY dry. I learned it then hard way when I cleaned several revolvers. I use Mobil One straight. The only way you can thin motor oil is by mixing it with a petroleum solution. Petroleum and firearm finishes do not mix well SO I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. I do not use an ultrasonic cleaner all the time. I use it when the firearm is EXTREMELY dirty. I would say that 1 out of every 5 cleanings I use the ultrasonic unit to completely clean the gun. It's amazing how new the frame or slide looks when you remove it from the unit. Did you get a basket with your unit? I highly recommend it so that the gun doesn't get mixed in all the grit that sits at the bottom. One last thing, like I stated above, be sure to dry the gun properly after the cleaning. The oven works the best but a hair dryer will also do. Have fun and pass on your experiences.

January 12, 2001, 01:12 AM	#5
weegee Senior Member Join Date: November 24, 1999 Posts: 195	Ultrasonics are designed to work with low-viscosity liquids, E.G. ammonia/detergent/water solutions, not with heavy fluids like motor oils. I'd be amazed if you're getting even 10 or 20% of the cleaning power the machine is capable of, using something like Mobil one. ArmySon--"petroleum and firearm finishes don't mix well..." I'd be willing to bet most TFL members are lubing or cleaning at least some of their guns with petroleum products on a regular basis. Which petroleum products--and which finishes--were you referring to? hksig and Casey: I would strongly suggest that, as soon as you remove the gun fom the cleaning solution, you treat it to a bath in one of the 'water-displacing' solutions (Sheath, LPS-1, etc.--not wd40, of course.) This is the only way to be certain of preventing after-rust if you clean with an aqueous solution. (Possibly you could use one of the water-soluble rust-preventatives, or a soluble cutting oil, like those sold to machine shops, as an additive in your cleaning solution--it should work, but I haven't tried it.) Ultrasonic cleaning will remove every trace of oil from the gun, creating the perfect setup for 'flash rusting'. FWIW, mechanical watches are cleaned using an agitated tank of solution, and then immediately moved into a tank containing a lubricating solution, which consists of an oil dissolved in a solvent carrier. When the movement is removed, the carrier evaporates, leaving oil in the proper places, distributed there and held there by capillary action. You need a similar phenomenon with guns. Ultrasonic action alone, in a good machine, is strong enough to mar metal surfaces, regardless of the solution! Be SURE that you suspend your gun above the bottom. You can make hooks and racks from heavy (say, 8 gauge) copper wire from the Home Depot. Get some plastic or rubber tubing, slip it over the wire, and bend it to the configuration you need. You can 'customize' these hangers as needed to fit each gun, part, fishing reel, etc. that you want to clean, and these are way cheaper than commercially available racks. Exercise caution using these things. Run tests on similarly finished parts, if possible, to verify the effect before risking one of your prized possessions. Brain's fading, it's late. Just a few tips I've learned from 20+ years of using ultrasonics on an almost daily basis. Hope this helped...weegee.

January 12, 2001, 06:24 AM	#6
ljlc Member Join Date: July 5, 1999 Posts: 34	I've used MP7. It claims to have a rust inhibitor in it. They have a website for more information on ultrasonic cleaning with their prodcut. Or give them a call.

January 12, 2001, 08:19 PM	#8
hksigwalther Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 1998 Location: NE OH, USA Posts: 3,198	Thanks for the great suggestions weegee.

April 28, 2001, 08:39 PM	#9
Gary H Senior Member Join Date: April 26, 2000 Location: Texas Posts: 2,267	Here is some good information from another board. Most of the ultrasonic stuff comes after the initial cleaning suggestions. Read this as per Jeff's post: http://www.healthsonics.com/houke.htm This is the whole posting regarding cleaning: http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/ub...ML/000033.html