New to Cast Bullets

340ka · September 20, 2012, 11:18 PM

I plan on trying to shoot cast bullets to see what it is like. I would appreciated any direction to help me acquire the information I need to prepare my rifle for this. I will be shooting .308 caliber in a heavy barrelled Ruger M77. I guess the first step is to slug the barrel to know the exact groove diameter? Where are instructions on how to do this correctly. Do I need to get the bore perfectly free on any copper first? I thank you all for any help in getting me started. I am brand new to this forum. I did alot of shooting in the southern Arizona desert-good rifle country. I now live on a farm in northwest Ohio. The fields are small, the distances are shorter, so I still want to shoot .308, but slower and quieter.

sidewindr · September 21, 2012, 06:00 AM

Yes it is advised to do a good copper removal. Then oil up the bore good, take a slug(sinker or something pure lead)oil it good also(some use grease) and push it down the barrel.It may take some doing to get it started but then it will go easier.Then measure with a micrometer.

340ka · September 21, 2012, 08:53 AM

OK, do I push the lead from the muzzle, or from the breech end? What is best thing to use to push the slug through?

sidewindr · September 21, 2012, 12:21 PM

I go from the muzzle, and start with a rubber mallot till the slug is going and then a brass rod I got from McMaster Carr(I have a couple for different calibers). I turn(or you can sand) the sinker or slug so it is maybe .01" over groove dia, that way it is easier to get going. You may use a good hardwood dowel IF the slug is going pretty easy and tape the end up if you can so the dowel can't split and wedge. If it wedges, it would be BAD<BAD<BAD. So tap carefully and if the slug is pushing hard, get something better. DO NOT HIT HARDER. Plenty of heavy oil/grease.
Also check out this forum http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ they specialize in cast and will have an answer for everything(maybe too much sometimes

).

Goatwhiskers · September 21, 2012, 02:29 PM

Do Not use a wood dowel. Just asking for trouble. GW

340ka · September 22, 2012, 01:08 PM

OK, thanks for replies. This is enough info to give me a start. Is it too risky to use a steel rod to pound the slug thru the bore?

sidewindr · September 22, 2012, 03:42 PM

It not ideal to use a steel rod, it cam damage the bore. IF you have a small enough dia steel rod, you COULD tape it up with electrical tape to keep it from doing the damage, but do so at risk and care. I know others insist to not use a dowel, and I agree, but if you don't have the means to get the other stuff, you can do it, as I said, IF you don't have to hammer it hard and only if you tightly tape the end couple inches to help against splintering, I would use the steel taped up (many cleaning rod are highly polished steel)before the dowel though.

340ka · September 22, 2012, 09:33 PM

Sorry to be a pain with so many questions, but what is best copper removal method?

oldmanFCSA · September 22, 2012, 10:10 PM

28-33% aqueous ammonia and stainless steel brushes

Do it outside.

sidewindr · September 23, 2012, 01:06 AM

I use Hoppes Copper remover, it sticks but works good. I clean first with the regular Hoppes, then I'll run a couple soaked patches to make sure the entire bore is coated and let sit ten to fifteen minutes then repeat, mixing in some scrubbing with nylon bore brushes. I do this sometimes for a couple hours,till no green comes out. I've even let it sit overnight, but I don't think it is the best, but I got a bunch of "green" out then.
I think the working ingredient in most copper cleaners is ammonia so the above "straight" method may work pretty good, just don't breath the fumes.

September 20, 2012, 11:18 PM	#1
340ka Junior Member Join Date: September 10, 2012 Posts: 7	New to Cast Bullets I plan on trying to shoot cast bullets to see what it is like. I would appreciated any direction to help me acquire the information I need to prepare my rifle for this. I will be shooting .308 caliber in a heavy barrelled Ruger M77. I guess the first step is to slug the barrel to know the exact groove diameter? Where are instructions on how to do this correctly. Do I need to get the bore perfectly free on any copper first? I thank you all for any help in getting me started. I am brand new to this forum. I did alot of shooting in the southern Arizona desert-good rifle country. I now live on a farm in northwest Ohio. The fields are small, the distances are shorter, so I still want to shoot .308, but slower and quieter.

September 21, 2012, 12:21 PM	#4
sidewindr Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2011 Location: somewhere out there Posts: 101	I go from the muzzle, and start with a rubber mallot till the slug is going and then a brass rod I got from McMaster Carr(I have a couple for different calibers). I turn(or you can sand) the sinker or slug so it is maybe .01" over groove dia, that way it is easier to get going. You may use a good hardwood dowel IF the slug is going pretty easy and tape the end up if you can so the dowel can't split and wedge. If it wedges, it would be BAD<BAD<BAD. So tap carefully and if the slug is pushing hard, get something better. DO NOT HIT HARDER. Plenty of heavy oil/grease. Also check out this forum http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ they specialize in cast and will have an answer for everything(maybe too much sometimes).

September 22, 2012, 10:10 PM	#9
oldmanFCSA Senior Member Join Date: November 8, 2010 Location: WISCONSIN Posts: 283	28-33% aqueous ammonia and stainless steel brushes Do it outside. __________________ OldmanFCSA = "Oldman" at www.fcsa.org FCSA Member, SCSA Member, NRA Member, & AMA Member "Oldage & Treachery will overcome Youth & Skill"

September 21, 2012, 06:00 AM	#2
sidewindr Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2011 Location: somewhere out there Posts: 101	Yes it is advised to do a good copper removal. Then oil up the bore good, take a slug(sinker or something pure lead)oil it good also(some use grease) and push it down the barrel.It may take some doing to get it started but then it will go easier.Then measure with a micrometer.

September 21, 2012, 08:53 AM	#3
340ka Junior Member Join Date: September 10, 2012 Posts: 7	OK, do I push the lead from the muzzle, or from the breech end? What is best thing to use to push the slug through?

September 21, 2012, 02:29 PM	#5
Goatwhiskers Senior Member Join Date: April 8, 2009 Location: Batchelor, La. Posts: 579	Do Not use a wood dowel. Just asking for trouble. GW

September 22, 2012, 01:08 PM	#6
340ka Junior Member Join Date: September 10, 2012 Posts: 7	OK, thanks for replies. This is enough info to give me a start. Is it too risky to use a steel rod to pound the slug thru the bore?

September 22, 2012, 03:42 PM	#7
sidewindr Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2011 Location: somewhere out there Posts: 101	It not ideal to use a steel rod, it cam damage the bore. IF you have a small enough dia steel rod, you COULD tape it up with electrical tape to keep it from doing the damage, but do so at risk and care. I know others insist to not use a dowel, and I agree, but if you don't have the means to get the other stuff, you can do it, as I said, IF you don't have to hammer it hard and only if you tightly tape the end couple inches to help against splintering, I would use the steel taped up (many cleaning rod are highly polished steel)before the dowel though.

September 22, 2012, 09:33 PM	#8
340ka Junior Member Join Date: September 10, 2012 Posts: 7	Sorry to be a pain with so many questions, but what is best copper removal method?

September 23, 2012, 01:06 AM	#10
sidewindr Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2011 Location: somewhere out there Posts: 101	I use Hoppes Copper remover, it sticks but works good. I clean first with the regular Hoppes, then I'll run a couple soaked patches to make sure the entire bore is coated and let sit ten to fifteen minutes then repeat, mixing in some scrubbing with nylon bore brushes. I do this sometimes for a couple hours,till no green comes out. I've even let it sit overnight, but I don't think it is the best, but I got a bunch of "green" out then. I think the working ingredient in most copper cleaners is ammonia so the above "straight" method may work pretty good, just don't breath the fumes.