Quick S&W Trigger Improvement

PKAY · November 9, 2002, 05:42 PM

Having recently purchased a 4" Model 29-2 P&R (with presentation box and all the trimmings), I was confronted with a pretty tight action (hardly ever fired) and a kinda jerky and heavy double action trigger pull. Disassembling the gun. I cleaned each and every part thoroughly. I then took some jewelers rouge in powder form mixed with a little water from a syringe on a flat piece of Kovar (flat steel works too) I had laying around, I polished both the back (frame side) and bottom sides of the rebound slide by rubbing the slide back and forth in the rouge mixture against the flat Kovar until smooth. Cleaning the slickened slide with water and blowing dry with compressed air, I reassembled the gun using my own "home brew" of MMO and generic STP (FP-10 is excellent as well, but I sure like my goop!). I also backed off the main spring 3/4 of a turn. Man, what a difference in DA trigger pull! Very smooth and stages nicely (It's still a looong pull, though, IMHO). No cutting of the rebound spring. No taking a stone to either the hammer or trigger sear. Dry fire a couple of hundred times with snap caps and your in business. Safe and effective, especially if you don't feel qualified to start changing the configuration of either the hammer or trigger interfacing surfaces (and I do not!). I've replicated this a couple of times now on my Smiths and have been very pleased with the results.

**4V50 Gary** · November 9, 2002, 06:13 PM

Pkay - you're ruining my retirement gig.

James K · November 10, 2002, 12:02 AM

Another trick is to put the rebound slide in a milling machine and remove a slight amount from the middle of the slide, lengthwise, on the bottom and sides. This reduces the friction surface area and, in combination with polishing the remaining areas and the frame, makes a very smooth workup.

Jim

**Mike Irwin** · November 10, 2002, 12:40 AM

Backing the strain screw off is NOT a good idea, especially if the gun is going to be used for defensive purposes.

The strain screw is meant to be snugged down TIGHT into its recess.

If it's not, it "floats" and can readily unscrew itself even farther.

**4V50 Gary** · November 10, 2002, 10:43 AM

But Mike, I can't find a strain screw on the 317.

Actually, if one had to play around with it (and we didn't), one filed down a bit of the strain screw and tighthened it down all the way. That way it wouldn't back out. We were taught to reduce the coils on the rebound slide spring and to leave the mainspring and strain screw alone.

PKAY · November 10, 2002, 01:27 PM

Not used for defense, Mike. Gotta CQB for that task. However, concerning backing off of the main spring strain screw, seems to me the stock grips butt right up against it when in place. How would "backing out" become a problem in this instance?

WESHOOT2 · November 10, 2002, 01:42 PM

Or you can take the side off, squirt in some Gleem toothpaste, slap the side back on, and dry-fire a bunch.
Then clean thoroughly, and voila! a smoother action.

PKAY · November 10, 2002, 01:48 PM

Gee, Weshoot2, it's not like I'm hurtin' things. Give us the benefit of your experience in this matter. How would you go about such a task step by step? Always like to learn, ya know.

WESHOOT2 · November 10, 2002, 02:16 PM

You take off the side, squirt in some Gleem toothpaste, replace the side, and dry-fire.
Then clean thoroughly.

I wasn't kidding. The slight abrasiveness of the toothpaste acts as a very gentle 'lapping compound', and is MOST UNLIKELY to cause any harm.
Thorough cleaning required.

My experience: I take S&W's apart in a 'spring box'.

PKAY · November 10, 2002, 03:04 PM

Holy Cow, Weshoot2, I thought you were funnin' my effort! Now that I think of it, that Gleem toothpaste thing is kinda similar. Sorry for the misinterpretation.

WESHOOT2 · November 11, 2002, 01:31 AM

You should see my smile

.

C.R.Sam · November 11, 2002, 11:55 AM

Take new gun...
Give it to your grandfather when he is young.
When you are old enough to shoot it.
He will have smoothed it out for you.

Sam

James K · November 12, 2002, 10:42 PM

Gleem toothpaste is, alas, no longer made. It was also good for removing copper fouling from rifle barrels and, incidentally, for cleaning teeth.

You can do the same thing, just by pouring the powdered rouge directly into the action, adding oil and working the gun a lot. You can flush out the rouge without even disassembling the gun.

If you want to reduce tension of the leaf type mainspring on a S&W, take metal off the sides, tapering the spring to make it narrower at the top.

Jim

November 9, 2002, 05:42 PM	#1
PKAY Senior Member Join Date: March 22, 1999 Location: L.A., CA, USA Posts: 911	Quick S&W Trigger Improvement Having recently purchased a 4" Model 29-2 P&R (with presentation box and all the trimmings), I was confronted with a pretty tight action (hardly ever fired) and a kinda jerky and heavy double action trigger pull. Disassembling the gun. I cleaned each and every part thoroughly. I then took some jewelers rouge in powder form mixed with a little water from a syringe on a flat piece of Kovar (flat steel works too) I had laying around, I polished both the back (frame side) and bottom sides of the rebound slide by rubbing the slide back and forth in the rouge mixture against the flat Kovar until smooth. Cleaning the slickened slide with water and blowing dry with compressed air, I reassembled the gun using my own "home brew" of MMO and generic STP (FP-10 is excellent as well, but I sure like my goop!). I also backed off the main spring 3/4 of a turn. Man, what a difference in DA trigger pull! Very smooth and stages nicely (It's still a looong pull, though, IMHO). No cutting of the rebound spring. No taking a stone to either the hammer or trigger sear. Dry fire a couple of hundred times with snap caps and your in business. Safe and effective, especially if you don't feel qualified to start changing the configuration of either the hammer or trigger interfacing surfaces (and I do not!). I've replicated this a couple of times now on my Smiths and have been very pleased with the results. __________________ Safe shooting - PKAY

November 9, 2002, 06:13 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	Shhhhh! Pkay - you're ruining my retirement gig. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

November 10, 2002, 12:40 AM	#4
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,381	Backing the strain screw off is NOT a good idea, especially if the gun is going to be used for defensive purposes. The strain screw is meant to be snugged down TIGHT into its recess. If it's not, it "floats" and can readily unscrew itself even farther. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

November 10, 2002, 10:43 AM	#5
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	But Mike, I can't find a strain screw on the 317. Actually, if one had to play around with it (and we didn't), one filed down a bit of the strain screw and tighthened it down all the way. That way it wouldn't back out. We were taught to reduce the coils on the rebound slide spring and to leave the mainspring and strain screw alone. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

November 10, 2002, 01:27 PM	#6
PKAY Senior Member Join Date: March 22, 1999 Location: L.A., CA, USA Posts: 911	Not used for defense, Mike. Gotta CQB for that task. However, concerning backing off of the main spring strain screw, seems to me the stock grips butt right up against it when in place. How would "backing out" become a problem in this instance? __________________ Safe shooting - PKAY

November 10, 2002, 12:02 AM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Another trick is to put the rebound slide in a milling machine and remove a slight amount from the middle of the slide, lengthwise, on the bottom and sides. This reduces the friction surface area and, in combination with polishing the remaining areas and the frame, makes a very smooth workup. Jim

November 10, 2002, 01:42 PM	#7
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	PLEISTOCENE REVOLVER 'SMITHING Or you can take the side off, squirt in some Gleem toothpaste, slap the side back on, and dry-fire a bunch. Then clean thoroughly, and voila! a smoother action. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

November 10, 2002, 01:48 PM	#8
PKAY Senior Member Join Date: March 22, 1999 Location: L.A., CA, USA Posts: 911	Gee, Weshoot2, it's not like I'm hurtin' things. Give us the benefit of your experience in this matter. How would you go about such a task step by step? Always like to learn, ya know. __________________ Safe shooting - PKAY

November 10, 2002, 02:16 PM	#9
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	NO ACCUSATION HERE: YOUR GUN You take off the side, squirt in some Gleem toothpaste, replace the side, and dry-fire. Then clean thoroughly. I wasn't kidding. The slight abrasiveness of the toothpaste acts as a very gentle 'lapping compound', and is MOST UNLIKELY to cause any harm. Thorough cleaning required. My experience: I take S&W's apart in a 'spring box'. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

November 10, 2002, 03:04 PM	#10
PKAY Senior Member Join Date: March 22, 1999 Location: L.A., CA, USA Posts: 911	Holy Cow, Weshoot2, I thought you were funnin' my effort! Now that I think of it, that Gleem toothpaste thing is kinda similar. Sorry for the misinterpretation. __________________ Safe shooting - PKAY

November 11, 2002, 01:31 AM	#11
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	HAMMER, CHISEL, EXPEDIENCE You should see my smile . __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

November 11, 2002, 11:55 AM	#12
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Take new gun... Give it to your grandfather when he is young. When you are old enough to shoot it. He will have smoothed it out for you. Sam

November 12, 2002, 10:42 PM	#13
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Gleem toothpaste is, alas, no longer made. It was also good for removing copper fouling from rifle barrels and, incidentally, for cleaning teeth. You can do the same thing, just by pouring the powdered rouge directly into the action, adding oil and working the gun a lot. You can flush out the rouge without even disassembling the gun. If you want to reduce tension of the leaf type mainspring on a S&W, take metal off the sides, tapering the spring to make it narrower at the top. Jim