failure to extract in Remington R1

[DavidB2]

Went out and shot some Tula and Magtech230 gr. Ammo. Had multiple failure to extract in both. Shot the. Tula first. Extractor and ejector seem fine. The fired cases will eject when I drop the magazine and rack the slide manually. Any theories on why this would happen? Never had a problem with this before; except when using the 185 Zombie hollowpoint rounds.

[polyphemus]

Failure to extract? or failure to eject.
If the round is not being extracted it is because the extractor is not engaging
it,you have a broken extractor.How old is the pistol?Those Tula things are made
in Russia and have steel cases have they not? Bad mojo.
Please field strip your pistol and check the extractor.

[Aguila Blanca]

Is the Tula steel-cased?

I suspect that your extractor needs a bit more tension. When a round is fired, the case expands under the pressure and seals fairly tightly to the chamber wall. With brass cases, usually the pressure dissipates and the brass relaxes enough to allow the extractor to pull the case free as the slide retracts, but if it's a high-pressure load the case may remain obturated a bit longer, requiring a bit more "oomph" on the part of the extractor.

Steel-cased ammo isn't as flexible as brass, and doesn't recover as much. Stuck cases with steel-cased ammo wouldn't surprise me at all. It's also tough on extractors. I resolved many years ago never to shoot steel-cased ammo in any firearm that wasn't designed for it. (Which means I don't use it in a 1911, and I don't use it in an AR-15.)

[bigghoss]

I would think not enough extractor tension also, or possibly worn/broken extractor claw. Take a loaded round or preferably a snap-cap that has the same weight as a live round and chamber it. Very slowly pull back the slide and watch the round as it's pulled out of the chamber. As it clears the chamber but before it hits the ejector the extractor should have enough tension to hold it flush against the breech face. If it doesn't than it needs more tension.

[Nanuk]

Remove the slide from the weapon.

Insert snap cap or dummy round under extractor, does it hold the round? Adjust as needed.

Remove snap cap/dummy round reassemble.

Check your chamber, is it rough? My experience is that the Tula/Wolf is underpowered which will cause the malf you are experiencing try some Winchester White box or other ammo.

[1911Tuner]

Check the extractor tension with a live round. Snap caps typically have smaller than spec rim diameters and will give a false reading.

Measure the length of the claw with a caliper from the tip to the tensioning wall...the area that pressed on the side of the rim. .032 inch is a minimum. I prefer to see .035.-036 inch.

To measure accurately...Measure the thickness from the spine to the wall, then from the spine to the tip...and subtract. The figure is the length of the claw.

Eyeball the claw to see that it's perpendicular to the tensioning wall and doesn't have a negative angle that would allow it to slip off the rim.

Finally, check the chamber for rough spots or machining marks left from a dull reamer trapping a chip and scoring it.

The fired cases will eject when I drop the magazine and rack the slide manually.

Amongst highly trained and keenly observant law enforcement types, this here is known as...a clue!

From the way it sounds, it's possible that the fired cases are dropping low enough on the breechface to contact the magazine feed lips, and causing the claw to pull free from the rims before they can hit the ejector. More tension may help. If the extractor is clocking...rotating counter-clockwise...that may be a player as well. More tension may help...or not...depending on why it's clocking.

[bigghoss]

From the way it sounds, it's possible that the fired cases are dropping low enough on the breechface to contact the magazine feed lips, and causing the claw to pull free from the rims before they can hit the ejector.

I had this exact problem with my 1911 and the culprit was a bad extractor that wouldn't hold tension.