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Old March 3, 2011, 06:11 PM   #1
hillbille
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new flintlock.....

I have been shooting blackpowder for quite a while, just never had the urge for flintlock, till yesterday. my big question is I have lots of 3f powder will it work in the flash pan? Hate to carry two flasks unless I just plain have to.
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Old March 3, 2011, 06:42 PM   #2
Pahoo
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Try it but I feel that 3-F in the pan, will fight you a bit. You will keep wondering if you shuld have gotten form 4-F. Also depends greatly on what propellant you intend to use. .. ....



Be Safe !!!
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Old March 3, 2011, 07:03 PM   #3
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It will work, just don't use too much or ignition will be slow.
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Old March 3, 2011, 07:09 PM   #4
l.cutler
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I've been using 3f in the barrel and pan for years. I actually prefer it over 4f ,it doesn't seem to get wet as easily and it doesnt find it's way out of the pan so readily. It is most likely a little slower burning, but not so that I notice it.
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Old March 3, 2011, 07:33 PM   #5
Dave Markowitz
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3Fg works fine for priming flintlocks. I've used it with no problems in my Dixie Tenn. Mountain Rifle, MVTC Tulle Fusil de Chasse, and MVTC M1717 French musket.
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Old March 3, 2011, 08:56 PM   #6
4V50 Gary
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3F works fine for the pan and if you're gun is .45 caliber or smaller, you need only one horn.
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Old March 3, 2011, 09:14 PM   #7
noelf2
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works for me too
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Old March 4, 2011, 12:44 AM   #8
RwBeV
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FFFg will work just fine, as long as you get good spark from your lock. Several years ago I was grouse hunting and forgot my priming horn. All I had was Fg for my double 16ga flintlock, Fg worked just fine I could tell little difference in the way the gun shot, and the grouse couldn't tell. Find someone that knows flintlocks and have them help you tune the lock for best performance. Welcome to the Rock Lock club.

Bob
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Old March 4, 2011, 09:42 AM   #9
Rifleman1776
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This is a hotly debated issue.
There have been several 'sorta' scientific tests that purport to show there is no difference in ignition time between using 3Fg and 4Fg. I have used 2-3 and 4Fg, all work.
But, that said, I personally prefer 4Fg and use it. Cannot state for sure it is better I just like it better.
As said, just don't use too much, it only takes a thin line on the bottom of the pan.
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Old March 4, 2011, 10:20 AM   #10
Wyosmith
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I make them to earn my living.
I use 3 F in the pans of nearly all I make.
It works just find.
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Old March 4, 2011, 12:23 PM   #11
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Old March 4, 2011, 04:37 PM   #12
Rifleman1776
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The best thing about using 3Fg for primer is it is best way to start a very lively debate around the campfire when you say it is just as good as 4Fg.

BTW, I have a powder grinder from the 1970s when there was a shortage of black powder and all that was available was some coarse, crude junk. I don't even remember the brand.
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Old March 4, 2011, 05:57 PM   #13
hillbille
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thanks will try tommorrow, I have almost 5lbs of FFF black powder, I shoot it in all my muzzlloaders, shotgun, pistol, and rifle, its just easier to carry one flask and not wonder do I have double or triple in this one. I'm just bored with my inline, would like to take a deer next year with the flintlock, just to say I did.
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Old March 4, 2011, 08:05 PM   #14
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I usedd to use 4F and then tried the 3F - I really think it depends on the lock and if the vent is properly placed - at least that's been my experience. If the lock is "tuned" well and you get a good shower of sparks into the pan, it should work fine. I've used 3F in everything from my Fusil de Chasse, which has a large lock to the smaller Siler locks on rifles I've built. If you look at some of the early drill manuals for loading and firing the "firelock" musket, you'll see that in the military, paper wrapped cartridges were carried (I'm talking the era of flintlock muskets). The cock was put on "half cock", the cartridge torn open and a small quantity of the main charge powder placed in the pan and the frizzen closed. The rest of the powder was then loaded and then the ball. This prevented the soldier from having to carry a priming horn. On "civilian" flintlocks, priming horns were often carried and I have several originals in my collection. However, ov er the years, I've had the opportunity to see and study quite a few "hunting pouches" with their horns that were originals from the flintlock era. Some have had priming horns suspended from the strap along with the main horn, some have not. True, a priming horn may have been carried in the bag, but, I still think that some were loaded and charged with the same powder that was carried in the large horn - supposition on my part, but feasible. Don't get discouraged with your flinter - it will take a while for you to get used to what works best for you and your flinter. I guarantee though, that once you get used to it, you will love it! Best of luck to you!
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Old March 5, 2011, 10:23 AM   #15
Rifleman1776
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bedbugbilly is correct in the description of loading a musket. However, that was, emphasize WAS a wartime procedure. Priming at half cock prior to charging the barrel is a very dangerous practice. For safe shooting today, prime as last step.
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Old March 5, 2011, 10:05 PM   #16
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+1 to what Rifleman said - I should have included his advice in my answer. Priming the "firelock" first with powder from the cartridge and then loading was the way it was done "in the day" - NOT how it should be done now. Rifleman - thanks for taking up the slack on that one when I let the ball down. Priming should always be the last step to loading. Another thing that should be mentioned about flinters - keep folks and flammables away from the side of your rifle which has the vent - when you fire, you will usually get a hot shot (for want of a better word) of super-heated gasses shooting out your vent when your rifle/smoothbore flinter fires. As with any shooting - develop good safety habits and follow them - always. And keep your powder containers closed when you, or anybody else, is going to take a shot.
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