speedloaders just suck dont they? - Page 3

UncleEd · March 30, 2016, 03:24 PM

Bob Wright,

I've used speedloaders with DA revolvers much like you've done with SAs.

I use an HKS speedloader, place it over the cartridges in the cylinder and then upend the revolver, clear the now loaded speedloader and turn the knob to lock. It's my practice with home defense revolvers which I may wish to
unload for any given reason and then still have a quick, handy way for reloading.

Homerboy · March 30, 2016, 04:57 PM

If you can't make a speedloader work you have no business using them. Funny how millions of other shooters can and do make them work fine.

MrBorland · March 30, 2016, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homerboy

If you can't make a speedloader work you have no business using them. Funny how millions of other shooters can and do make them work fine.

The OP clarified their problem is specifically with speedloaders and the small J-frame.

I've got countless hours of practice with speedloaders, but still find using them with a J-frame to be tricky - there's just not a lot of room to work in when reloading a J-frame.

Model12Win · March 30, 2016, 05:51 PM

Quote:

well12win that's taking a lot for granted considering you don't know me or if im grant Cunningham..do ya?

No I'm pretty sure you're not. Grant Cunningham wouldn't insult himself by using such poor grammar.

Go ahead and buy those 5-Star loaders. They may well work for you.

Homerboy · April 1, 2016, 07:12 PM

Never had an issue with them on a S&W 36, a 642, or a Ruger SPNY. Maybe a tad more wiggle to make them work but the rounds always dropped right in and sure was faster than a speed strip

Doc Holliday 1950 · April 1, 2016, 10:07 PM

I don't have any problem using speed loaders with our J frame wheels. Maybe it's becuse they're Rugers? Don't know but both my wife and I have no problems with them. I certainly have no problem with my GP 100 4.2" 357 mag.
Besides, All of our local Police Forces used speed loaders before Semi autos got popular. I am pretty confident that had there been problems with them we would have heard about it.

Doc

dieselbeef · April 3, 2016, 09:09 PM

lotta useless advice in here ..whats the point. tell me I suck and its not the loaders cuz they wrok perfect in your j frame..oh wait..yer talking about something entirely different and bash me anyways..

geez..read the post..i don't care how yer ruger or yer n frame loads..mine are fine too..

whatever..sorry I bothered you ''experts''.....-CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED-. ill figure it out. ill mill the latch or mod the loader to go in straight so in panic mode the rds don't get stuck..since im the only guy this has ever happened to I wont bother to share my resulting mod...

im out...bash away experts....

Doc Holliday 1950 · April 3, 2016, 09:30 PM

Sorry DeiselBeef,

but I think you posted "the big frame guns aren't as bad but the j frames forget it". I am no expert and the people on this Forum are generally very helpful and not trolls. IMHO as a novice, We own 2 j frame Rugers and our speed loaders work just great.
I don't have enough knowledge on this to help you and wish I did.

Sometimes it's very difficult to post and write about things. It much different then being face to face. But I can say 100% that the people in this Forum are super and their advice is generally right on.

I hope you can find an answer to your J frame loaders.

Respectfully,
Doc

Model12Win · April 3, 2016, 10:20 PM

Quote:

We own 2 j frame Rugers and our speed loaders work just great.

No such thing as a J-frame Ruger.

OP: Have you tried Safariland Comp-I loaders in your S&W? If those don't work with your grips, try them with some stock factory boot grips or old style magna grips.

That should work 100%. My 642 (identical to your 442) has the same cylinder release and works perfectly with either HKS-36 loaders, but even better with the Safariland loaders (which I like better anyway).

I would certainly try Safariland loaders and new grips (if needed) before grinding on your gun.

Jim March · April 4, 2016, 03:49 PM

Quote:

No such thing as a J-frame Ruger.

Umm...if it's a five-shooter and the hole spacing in 38 or 357 is close enough it can eat from a true S&W J-frame speedloader, it's a "J-class" critter at a minimum.

The SP101 and LCR series both qualify.

Screwball · April 4, 2016, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim March

Umm...if it's a five-shooter and the hole spacing in 38 or 357 is close enough it can eat from a true S&W J-frame speedloader, it's a "J-class" critter at a minimum.

The SP101 and LCR series both qualify.

Sorry, but I'll respectfully disagree as well...

Ruger never did letter frames... that was S&W's cup of tea. You wouldn't call a Colt Python an N- or L-frame... it's a Colt Python.

The SP101 and LCR are very different from J-frames (construction is night and day, even on a similar J-frame to the SP101). They are all snub revolvers, with a similar use, but J-frame doesn't exclusively mean a snub. The Model 60 is a J-frame, but a few years back, they offered it with a 5" barrel.

Model12Win · April 4, 2016, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Umm...if it's a five-shooter and the hole spacing in 38 or 357 is close enough it can eat from a true S&W J-frame speedloader, it's a "J-class" critter at a minimum. The SP101 and LCR series both qualify.

Sorry, but it's not a J-frame. It is the same size as a J-frame, I'll give you that, but only a S&W can be called a J-frame.

It's just the law of the land, and no man can fight it.

Wanderlust · April 4, 2016, 06:02 PM

The ruger LCR in .327 federal has no issue with the HKS 32-J speed loader, way faster, although I have changed the hogue grip to a smaller one (still a tamer series though)

Jim March · April 4, 2016, 08:33 PM

I said "J-class". Maybe "J-oid" or "J-quasi-clone". Certainly "close to the same place in the food chain as a J".

Model12Win · April 4, 2016, 09:43 PM

Quote:

I said "J-class". Maybe "J-oid" or "J-quasi-clone". Certainly "close to the same place in the food chain as a J".

I agree Jim. It was the other guy who said "J-frame" that I was meaning.

Ruger SP101s and LCRs are not J-frames, and calling them as such can only confuse a new shooter. Low and behold when their new J-frame grips come in the mail and sure enough, they don't fit on their SP101.

I've seen it happen.

Doc Holliday 1950 · April 4, 2016, 10:02 PM

well when I asked Hogue which grip would fit my Ruger SP-101 and told them what I wanted, Hogue sent me exactly the correct grips which arrived today and I just finished putting them on. That's where I learned that it was not a J frame and also here on the Forum.

Did the same with Wolff. Called PA. and asked which was the correct package for the above gun and they told me which one to buy. Waiting to receive them soon.

Glad that the Forum steered me to the right direction.

Doc

Screwball · April 5, 2016, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim March

I said "J-class". Maybe "J-oid" or "J-quasi-clone". Certainly "close to the same place in the food chain as a J".

Snub works for all of them.

seeker_two · April 5, 2016, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Screwball

Snub works for all of them.

Yep.....

Laz · April 19, 2016, 12:59 PM

No one has yet mentioned that HKS speedloaders (at least) work fine with the old factory wooden grips and Tyler T adapters. They work fine with the now discontinued Uncle Mike's boot grips that used to be the factory supplied grips. HKS speedloaders emphatically DO NOT work fine with the current Factory supplied boot grips; they are not relieved enough and unless one is very, repeat very careful to not slip it in too far, the speedloader can easily get locked up tight against the rubber grip, neither loaded nor free.

The factory grips are comfortable but terrible for speeloaders. Hogue Bantams are, IMO, not quite as nice but speedloaders work well with them.

I don't understand why S&W has not addressed this. Should be a simple fix.

As long as their is enough relief on the grips for clearance, HKS speedloaders work fine with J-frames and are much faster than speed strips, IMO.

dieselbeef · April 19, 2016, 01:21 PM

well that seems to be the same issue ive got with the crimson trace grips. I guess with a laser on it they figure ya don't hafta worry bout speedloadin

j357 · April 22, 2016, 11:17 AM

Diesel I am with you and the comments by Laz above (his remarks on the progression of the grip patterns is right on the mark).

The new 642 factory grips are a known problem with HKS loaders. Your CT laser grips look to match the factory contours and are perhaps a tad larger in the thumb rest area.

As another poster suggested, try pulling the CT grips and see if you get better/straighter insertion.

**Mike Irwin** · April 22, 2016, 11:27 AM

When I was practicing regularly I got to be very good with speedloaders.

I prefer the HKS brand, mainly because that's what I practiced with the most.

I got to the point where I could go last shot-reload-first shot in the 3 to 4 second range.

Using Smith & Wesson revolvers and being left handed (but primarily shooting with my right hand to leave the left to deal with the speedloader) really helped.

Lohman446 · April 23, 2016, 10:07 AM

You know the idea that you cannot miss fast enough? I had to get the same idea of the speed loader. If you are using one things have gone horribly wrong already. Learn to do so by simply glancing at the revolver, keeping your head up, and reassessing the situation. Things are already sideways, you have already found the capacity of your firearm inadequate, and now you are trying to overcome all these things and leave alive.

Now for those of you competing for competitions sake? That I cannot speak to.

Laz · April 23, 2016, 10:08 PM

Lohman446 - you are right, of course. But, if things have already gone horribly wrong, having your speedloader get firmly stuck between the cylinder, the grips, and the cylinder latch, locking your revolver up tight, certainly lowers your already poor odds. At least grips that allow the speedloader to work as designed give you some chance.

I suppose one could train to fire four and then shoot yourself eliminating the need for speedloaders altogether.

dieselbeef · April 26, 2016, 09:30 AM

Well we had shoot this weekend but soon as I get the guns cleaned up I will take some pics of the grip and the grind it til they fall in. Thank for the guys that know what I mean instead of all the jacks. It gets old people telling ya how stupid you are and what your asking is your own fault. I just got to the part in cunningjams book on the revolver and he addresses this very issue. Modifying the grips is the solution. Little trimming til they work. And he didn't call me stupid

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

April 4, 2016, 08:33 PM	#64
Jim March Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 1999 Location: Pittsburg, CA, USA Posts: 7,417	I said "J-class". Maybe "J-oid" or "J-quasi-clone". Certainly "close to the same place in the food chain as a J". __________________ Jim March

April 19, 2016, 12:59 PM	#69
Laz Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 1999 Posts: 1,278	No one has yet mentioned that HKS speedloaders (at least) work fine with the old factory wooden grips and Tyler T adapters. They work fine with the now discontinued Uncle Mike's boot grips that used to be the factory supplied grips. HKS speedloaders emphatically DO NOT work fine with the current Factory supplied boot grips; they are not relieved enough and unless one is very, repeat very careful to not slip it in too far, the speedloader can easily get locked up tight against the rubber grip, neither loaded nor free. The factory grips are comfortable but terrible for speeloaders. Hogue Bantams are, IMO, not quite as nice but speedloaders work well with them. I don't understand why S&W has not addressed this. Should be a simple fix. As long as their is enough relief on the grips for clearance, HKS speedloaders work fine with J-frames and are much faster than speed strips, IMO. __________________ Laz I’m just a nobody, trying to tell everybody, about Somebody, who can save anybody.

April 22, 2016, 11:27 AM	#72
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,380	When I was practicing regularly I got to be very good with speedloaders. I prefer the HKS brand, mainly because that's what I practiced with the most. I got to the point where I could go last shot-reload-first shot in the 3 to 4 second range. Using Smith & Wesson revolvers and being left handed (but primarily shooting with my right hand to leave the left to deal with the speedloader) really helped. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

April 23, 2016, 10:08 PM	#74
Laz Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 1999 Posts: 1,278	Lohman446 - you are right, of course. But, if things have already gone horribly wrong, having your speedloader get firmly stuck between the cylinder, the grips, and the cylinder latch, locking your revolver up tight, certainly lowers your already poor odds. At least grips that allow the speedloader to work as designed give you some chance. I suppose one could train to fire four and then shoot yourself eliminating the need for speedloaders altogether. __________________ Laz I’m just a nobody, trying to tell everybody, about Somebody, who can save anybody.

March 30, 2016, 03:24 PM	#51
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	Bob Wright, I've used speedloaders with DA revolvers much like you've done with SAs. I use an HKS speedloader, place it over the cartridges in the cylinder and then upend the revolver, clear the now loaded speedloader and turn the knob to lock. It's my practice with home defense revolvers which I may wish to unload for any given reason and then still have a quick, handy way for reloading.

March 30, 2016, 04:57 PM	#52
Homerboy Junior member Join Date: June 16, 2004 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,320	If you can't make a speedloader work you have no business using them. Funny how millions of other shooters can and do make them work fine.

April 1, 2016, 07:12 PM	#55
Homerboy Junior member Join Date: June 16, 2004 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,320	Never had an issue with them on a S&W 36, a 642, or a Ruger SPNY. Maybe a tad more wiggle to make them work but the rounds always dropped right in and sure was faster than a speed strip

April 1, 2016, 10:07 PM	#56
Doc Holliday 1950 Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2014 Location: Bout as south as it gets Posts: 1,238	I don't have any problem using speed loaders with our J frame wheels. Maybe it's becuse they're Rugers? Don't know but both my wife and I have no problems with them. I certainly have no problem with my GP 100 4.2" 357 mag. Besides, All of our local Police Forces used speed loaders before Semi autos got popular. I am pretty confident that had there been problems with them we would have heard about it. Doc

April 3, 2016, 09:09 PM	#57
dieselbeef Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2011 Location: myakka city fl Posts: 312	lotta useless advice in here ..whats the point. tell me I suck and its not the loaders cuz they wrok perfect in your j frame..oh wait..yer talking about something entirely different and bash me anyways.. geez..read the post..i don't care how yer ruger or yer n frame loads..mine are fine too.. whatever..sorry I bothered you ''experts''.....-CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED-. ill figure it out. ill mill the latch or mod the loader to go in straight so in panic mode the rds don't get stuck..since im the only guy this has ever happened to I wont bother to share my resulting mod... im out...bash away experts....

April 3, 2016, 09:30 PM	#58
Doc Holliday 1950 Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2014 Location: Bout as south as it gets Posts: 1,238	Sorry DeiselBeef, but I think you posted "the big frame guns aren't as bad but the j frames forget it". I am no expert and the people on this Forum are generally very helpful and not trolls. IMHO as a novice, We own 2 j frame Rugers and our speed loaders work just great. I don't have enough knowledge on this to help you and wish I did. Sometimes it's very difficult to post and write about things. It much different then being face to face. But I can say 100% that the people in this Forum are super and their advice is generally right on. I hope you can find an answer to your J frame loaders. Respectfully, Doc

April 4, 2016, 06:02 PM	#63
Wanderlust Member Join Date: April 3, 2016 Posts: 16	The ruger LCR in .327 federal has no issue with the HKS 32-J speed loader, way faster, although I have changed the hogue grip to a smaller one (still a tamer series though)

April 4, 2016, 10:02 PM	#66
Doc Holliday 1950 Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2014 Location: Bout as south as it gets Posts: 1,238	well when I asked Hogue which grip would fit my Ruger SP-101 and told them what I wanted, Hogue sent me exactly the correct grips which arrived today and I just finished putting them on. That's where I learned that it was not a J frame and also here on the Forum. Did the same with Wolff. Called PA. and asked which was the correct package for the above gun and they told me which one to buy. Waiting to receive them soon. Glad that the Forum steered me to the right direction. Doc

April 19, 2016, 01:21 PM	#70
dieselbeef Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2011 Location: myakka city fl Posts: 312	well that seems to be the same issue ive got with the crimson trace grips. I guess with a laser on it they figure ya don't hafta worry bout speedloadin

April 22, 2016, 11:17 AM	#71
j357 Senior Member Join Date: January 25, 2009 Location: Liberty Twp, OH Posts: 283	Diesel I am with you and the comments by Laz above (his remarks on the progression of the grip patterns is right on the mark). The new 642 factory grips are a known problem with HKS loaders. Your CT laser grips look to match the factory contours and are perhaps a tad larger in the thumb rest area. As another poster suggested, try pulling the CT grips and see if you get better/straighter insertion.

April 23, 2016, 10:07 AM	#73
Lohman446 Senior Member Join Date: April 22, 2016 Posts: 2,192	You know the idea that you cannot miss fast enough? I had to get the same idea of the speed loader. If you are using one things have gone horribly wrong already. Learn to do so by simply glancing at the revolver, keeping your head up, and reassessing the situation. Things are already sideways, you have already found the capacity of your firearm inadequate, and now you are trying to overcome all these things and leave alive. Now for those of you competing for competitions sake? That I cannot speak to.

April 26, 2016, 09:30 AM	#75
dieselbeef Senior Member Join Date: November 3, 2011 Location: myakka city fl Posts: 312	Well we had shoot this weekend but soon as I get the guns cleaned up I will take some pics of the grip and the grind it til they fall in. Thank for the guys that know what I mean instead of all the jacks. It gets old people telling ya how stupid you are and what your asking is your own fault. I just got to the part in cunningjams book on the revolver and he addresses this very issue. Modifying the grips is the solution. Little trimming til they work. And he didn't call me stupid Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk