weatherby 22-250 bolt problem

kuca_2004 · January 13, 2014, 10:17 PM

I took my gun out and was going to do some shooting. Got to the range and put 5 rounds in the gun and cycled the bolt to load the gun. the bullet slides in but when I go to push the bolt down it won't go down. It probably could go down with some force but I don't want to try it.

Why can't I get the bolt to go down all the way? Some of the rounds cycle thru the gun but than some don't.

I do reload my ammo. Ive reloaded quite a bit of ammo and never had this happen in this gun before. I took my caliper and measured different lengths of the round and don't see a big difference between rounds anywhere.

can somebody tell me whats wrong?

shooterbob · January 13, 2014, 10:29 PM

Check and see if your bumping the shoulder enough. And also do you full length resize? If so check the depth setting and make sure that your set deep enough that you are resizing all the way down. I've seen some 270 rounds that weren't resized to the correct depth and were sticking in the the chamber. Just a possibility.

James K · January 13, 2014, 10:38 PM

Make sure there is no crud in the chamber, on the bolt face, or in the locking lug seats.

Jim

AllenJ · January 14, 2014, 10:03 AM

If the gun is clean I would suspect that you have not bumped the case shoulder back enough during the resizing process. Did you full length size the cases, or partial or neck size them? Also, how many times has the brass been fired and do you anneal your brass?

A_Gamehog · January 14, 2014, 10:18 AM

Many variables here,
1). Do you full length size or neck size?
2). Did you only neck size and got some brass fired an another rifle?
3). Is the overall length within specs? reloading manual=COL?

I had 3 Weatherbys and it's my experience they have a long throat. Sounds like your sizing die is not setup right. Do you screw the die down to make contact with the shellholder then 1/8 turn more?. It should cam-over to bump the shoulder.

Just trying to help.

Brian Pfleuger · January 14, 2014, 11:57 AM

If some of them chamber and some don't and they're all the same OAL, the almost certain culprit is the shoulder length. The solution for these already loaded rounds would be a Redding body die that can be used on loaded ammo to "bump" the shoulder back a couple thousandths.

kuca_2004 · January 14, 2014, 12:05 PM

I bought the Hornady die set which comes with the Full Length Sizer die and the seater die.

Brian Pfleuger · January 14, 2014, 12:16 PM

You can't resize those rounds with an ordinary full-length die. You need something that doesn't touch the neck and only sizes the body and shoulder. That would be a Redding body die.

Otherwise, you need a bullet puller of some sort and .22-250 rounds are not fun to disassemble with a kinetic puller, the bullets are too light.

You can also simply see how much effort it takes to close the bolt. If it goes down with effort but not "force", you can go right ahead and fire them. It's not going to hurt anything if they're otherwise safe rounds.

kuca_2004 · January 14, 2014, 12:43 PM

my reply with the full length sizing die was to answer all the questions above you Brian.

I will look into the Redding Body Die though.

Brian Pfleuger · January 14, 2014, 12:47 PM

Ah. I see.

For your current set up, you need to measure the shoulder of your fired brass and make sure your FL die is set to bump the shoulder back 1-2 thousandths.

I would personally recommend getting the Redding body die and a Lee collet neck die and using them together. The results would be excellent.

AllenJ · January 14, 2014, 03:24 PM

You might also think about getting a tool to measure from the head of the case to the datum point of the shoulder. I use RCBS Precision Mic's and like them. There are other tools that do the same task also. These tools allow you to adjust your sizing die so that it is bumping the shoulder the correct amount for your rifle, but not so much as to allow for unnecessary case stretching. In these times, with brass so hard to find, I feel the investment is worth it to get some extra case life.

ligonierbill · January 16, 2014, 06:49 AM

For kuca, you didn't say whether or not you crimped these rounds. If not, I have nothing to add. If yes, it's not hard to push a little too far and create a problem. I've done it.

January 13, 2014, 10:17 PM	#1
kuca_2004 Member Join Date: May 8, 2011 Posts: 98	weatherby 22-250 bolt problem I took my gun out and was going to do some shooting. Got to the range and put 5 rounds in the gun and cycled the bolt to load the gun. the bullet slides in but when I go to push the bolt down it won't go down. It probably could go down with some force but I don't want to try it. Why can't I get the bolt to go down all the way? Some of the rounds cycle thru the gun but than some don't. I do reload my ammo. Ive reloaded quite a bit of ammo and never had this happen in this gun before. I took my caliper and measured different lengths of the round and don't see a big difference between rounds anywhere. can somebody tell me whats wrong?

January 13, 2014, 10:29 PM	#2
shooterbob Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2013 Posts: 109	Check and see if your bumping the shoulder enough. And also do you full length resize? If so check the depth setting and make sure that your set deep enough that you are resizing all the way down. I've seen some 270 rounds that weren't resized to the correct depth and were sticking in the the chamber. Just a possibility. Last edited by shooterbob; January 14, 2014 at 04:58 PM.

January 14, 2014, 10:18 AM	#5
A_Gamehog Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2009 Location: Central Oregun Posts: 563	Many variables here, 1). Do you full length size or neck size? 2). Did you only neck size and got some brass fired an another rifle? 3). Is the overall length within specs? reloading manual=COL? I had 3 Weatherbys and it's my experience they have a long throat. Sounds like your sizing die is not setup right. Do you screw the die down to make contact with the shellholder then 1/8 turn more?. It should cam-over to bump the shoulder. Just trying to help. __________________ "Happiness is knowing the Barred Owl is Eating the Spotted Owl and environmentalists are watching Nature take it's course"

January 14, 2014, 11:57 AM	#6
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	If some of them chamber and some don't and they're all the same OAL, the almost certain culprit is the shoulder length. The solution for these already loaded rounds would be a Redding body die that can be used on loaded ammo to "bump" the shoulder back a couple thousandths. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

January 14, 2014, 12:16 PM	#8
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	You can't resize those rounds with an ordinary full-length die. You need something that doesn't touch the neck and only sizes the body and shoulder. That would be a Redding body die. Otherwise, you need a bullet puller of some sort and .22-250 rounds are not fun to disassemble with a kinetic puller, the bullets are too light. You can also simply see how much effort it takes to close the bolt. If it goes down with effort but not "force", you can go right ahead and fire them. It's not going to hurt anything if they're otherwise safe rounds. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

January 13, 2014, 10:38 PM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Make sure there is no crud in the chamber, on the bolt face, or in the locking lug seats. Jim

January 14, 2014, 10:03 AM	#4
AllenJ Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2009 Location: Northern California Posts: 1,766	If the gun is clean I would suspect that you have not bumped the case shoulder back enough during the resizing process. Did you full length size the cases, or partial or neck size them? Also, how many times has the brass been fired and do you anneal your brass?

January 14, 2014, 12:05 PM	#7
kuca_2004 Member Join Date: May 8, 2011 Posts: 98	I bought the Hornady die set which comes with the Full Length Sizer die and the seater die.

January 14, 2014, 12:43 PM	#9
kuca_2004 Member Join Date: May 8, 2011 Posts: 98	my reply with the full length sizing die was to answer all the questions above you Brian. I will look into the Redding Body Die though.

January 14, 2014, 12:47 PM	#10
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	Ah. I see. For your current set up, you need to measure the shoulder of your fired brass and make sure your FL die is set to bump the shoulder back 1-2 thousandths. I would personally recommend getting the Redding body die and a Lee collet neck die and using them together. The results would be excellent. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

January 14, 2014, 03:24 PM	#11
AllenJ Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2009 Location: Northern California Posts: 1,766	You might also think about getting a tool to measure from the head of the case to the datum point of the shoulder. I use RCBS Precision Mic's and like them. There are other tools that do the same task also. These tools allow you to adjust your sizing die so that it is bumping the shoulder the correct amount for your rifle, but not so much as to allow for unnecessary case stretching. In these times, with brass so hard to find, I feel the investment is worth it to get some extra case life.

January 16, 2014, 06:49 AM	#12
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,448	For kuca, you didn't say whether or not you crimped these rounds. If not, I have nothing to add. If yes, it's not hard to push a little too far and create a problem. I've done it.