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November 14, 2009, 08:05 AM | #1 |
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Removing the Bayonet on a M44
I picked this up Thursday and have not fired it yet, but I am thinking about
removing the spike bayonet. I seem to recall reading that removing the bayonet could mess up the sighting on the rifle though? Anyone have a M44 with the bayonet removed? How does it shoot? |
November 14, 2009, 09:46 PM | #2 |
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leave it on. If you don't want the bayonet get an M38!
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November 15, 2009, 12:15 AM | #3 |
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Yeah, exactly. I've heard bad things about what happens to accuracy if one gets the bayonet off, particularly on a gun that's not known for extreme accuracy to begin with.
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November 15, 2009, 12:46 AM | #4 |
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the accuracy issue has to do with the bayonet being deployed, not removed.
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November 15, 2009, 09:45 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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November 16, 2009, 12:57 AM | #6 |
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How's the bolt on your M44? Sticky-ness?
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November 16, 2009, 07:40 PM | #7 |
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Range report
I took the M44 to the range Sunday. At 25 yards, the rifle hit about 6 inches to the right. I moved it out to 50 yards and the impact changed to about 12 inches to the right.
I need to drift the front sight and see if I can close it up some. On another note: RECOIL. This rifle kicks like two mules. The 91/30 only kicks like one mule. I took the bayonet off, by the way. And yes the Bolt is definitely more sticky than my 91/30. I plan to polish it up some and clean the receiver really well. But I was told some of the M44's have very sticky bolts. |
November 17, 2009, 11:06 AM | #8 |
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Shoot it in the evening. The light show is absolutely fantastic!
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November 17, 2009, 12:20 PM | #9 |
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The sticky bolts are definitely fixable. There's a few tutorials on Youtube that really help. I didn't need to do much more than clean the cosmo off the bolt on my 91/30 to make it useable, but it's still a little sticky.
Also, if you pop the bayonet back on and deploy it, it should clear up the POI vs. POA issue. But yours doesn't shoot high at all at 50 yards?
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November 17, 2009, 03:10 PM | #10 |
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I tried removing the bayonet on mine and got absolutely nowhere. Is there a trick to removing that screw?
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November 17, 2009, 06:01 PM | #11 |
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lots of force.
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November 17, 2009, 06:21 PM | #12 | |
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November 17, 2009, 08:21 PM | #13 |
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Odds are the bayo screw will be staked. You may have to relieve the area where the staking presses the mount against the screw by drilling shallow holes (in the SCREW please, don't mess up the mount, you can get a replacement screw MUCH more easily!)
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November 18, 2009, 07:11 PM | #14 |
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No no no, don't start drilling holes! all you need is an impact driver- Two whacks and then unscrew it, that's how I got mine off (and you can put it back on just as easy).
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November 18, 2009, 07:52 PM | #15 |
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Screw
Mine came off fairly easily with a big Craftsman screwdriver.
I found a Chinese M44 at a small gunstore. Anybody have any experience with these. The guy has $139 on it but I think I could get him down to $100. This rifle has that recoil pad on it that was built for the Mosin; From this site: http://www.tickbitesupply.com/mos.html Scroll down on the page to see it. |
November 18, 2009, 09:28 PM | #16 |
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I did use the word "MAY". I've got some that would come off with that little flathead blade that comes in most cheap fold-out pocketknives. And I've got one that would be impossible to remove with a flathead driver, it has stakes all around the hole and some actually bridging the screw and the mount. It ain't coming off short of applying more torque than the slot could take. Ivan Bayostakervich brought his "A" game to work that day.
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November 18, 2009, 11:47 PM | #17 |
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Heh. My M44 only had 1 stake point, which was pretty easy to defeat with the impact driver. Funny that they would stake it more than that-that's them saying "buy an m38 or 91/59!" I eventuall put it back on, I missed it after a while
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November 20, 2009, 08:20 AM | #18 |
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Sounds like I'll need an impact driver... thanks, folks.
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November 20, 2009, 08:29 PM | #19 |
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You might like it better that way, but my typical Russian 44 with a fairly bright bore surprised me:
it shoots much Better at 50 yards with the Bayonet Retracted, using common 50's-vintage Bulgarian ammo. Last edited by Ignition Override; November 20, 2009 at 09:22 PM. |
November 29, 2009, 10:24 PM | #20 |
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You need three things to remove just about any stubborn screw.
1) A properly sized screwdriver. 2) Some heat. 3) A couple of good sharp whacks from a mallet on the grip of the screwdriver. |
November 30, 2009, 10:51 AM | #21 |
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If you've ever worked in a repair shop, you understand how invaluable this thing is. No heat or WD-40 needed. Whack! it's unscrewed, and you can reinstall it without damage. Mine was the best 25 bucks I've spent.
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December 1, 2009, 08:49 AM | #22 |
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I know I will get lots of 's and :barf: 's but I removed my M44 bayonet with a dremel tool. I then spent MANY hours with sandpaper and steel wool. I then used a cold blue kit. Afterwards I had a perfect looking rifle without the heavy bayonet that looked better than before. The accuracy was NOT affected. I was able to shoot 1 MOA before AND after. It was a DIY project that I am very proud of, as its my hunting rifle and not something I am keeping for anything other than utilitarian purposes.
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December 1, 2009, 09:52 AM | #23 |
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The bayo doesnt bother me, I kinda dig it.
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