Brownell's Teflon/Moly coat - any good?

Big Al · August 2, 2000, 11:14 AM

I was thinking about buying either a CZ-52 or a Makarov at this weekend's gun show. I want to make it a "project gun" for wintertime, and whichever gun I get, I'm sure I'll want to refinish it.

A local gun dealer here swears by the Brownell's teflon/moly coating, the stuff that comes in a spray can. He says all you have to do is buff the surfaces with fine wet/dry sandpaper or 0000 steel wool, then give it a good cleaning with degreaser or brake cleaner, spray on the coating, an stick it in the oven. Sounds pretty simple, and the guns I've seen done in it look pretty darn good (one black, one grey steel colored).

Does this stuff hold up pretty well, and is it really that easy to apply?

thanks!

------------------
Glock 19
S&W 629 Classic
KelTec P32

"Oh yeah? Well I talk LOOOUDLY! And I carry a BIIIGGER stick! And I'll use it, too." -Yoesemite Sam

**Mal H** · August 2, 2000, 12:11 PM

Moving to the Smithy forum...

AndABeer · August 2, 2000, 12:56 PM

I got a can of the black and a can of the gray about 8 months ago. The black looked really good on a Caspian slide I finished. The gray had a bluish tinge to it and made a test peice of metal I sprayed with it look plasticy, if that's a word. I would not recommend the gray color. It was very easy to apply, but I cannot really comment on the durability of it as my Caspian project got put on hold.

RickB · August 2, 2000, 04:18 PM

I did one gun all-black a few years ago, and it is holding up pretty well. Holster use will wear the color off the high spots and corners in fairly short order. The parts of the gun that are not directly rubbed by the leather still look like new. I'm currently doing a gun in Wilson CQB-style OD green and black, and the green goes on as well as the black; it's opaque and consistent. The gun is still in pieces, so I don't know if the green will hold up as well as the black, or not. It does give the gun a painted look, but not unattractively so; and it gives the gun a "soft" feel, almost as if it was made from wood rather than metal.

Sport · August 2, 2000, 09:43 PM

Had my gunsmith apply it to the slide
of my government model about five months
ago. Since then, I've shot at least eight
IDPA matches and taken seven days worth of
classes; so I've given the finish a fair
workout. It is reasonably durable. There
is significant wear on the guns dust cover,
around the ejection port, and inside the
slide. I don't care for the dull black
color and the fact it has obliterated the
Colt rollmarks on the slide..To me, it looks
painted on. I don't know if that was due to
a lack of care on the part of the fellow
who applied it or the nature of the product.

I had it applied only as a temporary finish
and will replace with with plating after
all the custom work is completed.

George Stringer · August 3, 2000, 07:52 AM

Big Al, I use it quite a bit in the shop. It's a good, tough finish that will continue to cure with time and get even more scratch resistant. As Sport noted care must be taken not to fill lettering and serial numbers. George

westcangunner · August 3, 2000, 09:27 AM

I have used it on several guns and find it to be quite durable and very easy to apply. It seems to bond best to a glass beaded surface, and its important to make sure your parts are almost HOT when you apply it. I cant speak to holster wear (maybe someday up here...sigh...) and it didnt take long to chip in the mag well and around the ejection port.

Id use it again....

WCG

Big Al · August 3, 2000, 06:15 PM

okay, I'm a moron....how do you glass bead a surface?

------------------
Glock 19
S&W 629 Classic
KelTec P32

"Oh yeah? Well I talk LOOOUDLY! And I carry a BIIIGGER stick! And I'll use it, too." -Yoesemite Sam

railroader · August 4, 2000, 01:05 AM

Big Al, I think they are referring to bead blasting the old finish off. I think it is similar to sand blasting but with beads instead. I have had several guns done for me by an engine rebuilder in town before using the teflon/moly coat. He does them for me for $10. It sure saves alot of work and time.

westcangunner · August 4, 2000, 08:28 AM

Big Al

Glass beading is just like sand blasting except you use tiny tiny glass beads. Glass is much gentler on the parts and you have less chance of peeling the roll marks and numbers off. It produces a dimpled finish that the moly coat seems to bond to better. I did one firearm in moly that I polished, but the moly coat just didnt look very good, my polishing just sucked .... You can also buy plastic beads but Ive never used them...

WCG

August 2, 2000, 11:14 AM	#1
Big Al Senior Member Join Date: January 3, 2000 Location: West "By God" Virginny, USA Posts: 364	I was thinking about buying either a CZ-52 or a Makarov at this weekend's gun show. I want to make it a "project gun" for wintertime, and whichever gun I get, I'm sure I'll want to refinish it. A local gun dealer here swears by the Brownell's teflon/moly coating, the stuff that comes in a spray can. He says all you have to do is buff the surfaces with fine wet/dry sandpaper or 0000 steel wool, then give it a good cleaning with degreaser or brake cleaner, spray on the coating, an stick it in the oven. Sounds pretty simple, and the guns I've seen done in it look pretty darn good (one black, one grey steel colored). Does this stuff hold up pretty well, and is it really that easy to apply? thanks! ------------------ Glock 19 S&W 629 Classic KelTec P32 "Oh yeah? Well I talk LOOOUDLY! And I carry a BIIIGGER stick! And I'll use it, too." -Yoesemite Sam

August 2, 2000, 12:11 PM	#2
Mal H Staff Join Date: March 20, 1999 Location: Somewhere in the woods of Northern Virginia Posts: 16,955	Moving to the Smithy forum...

August 2, 2000, 12:56 PM	#3
AndABeer Senior Member Join Date: April 9, 2000 Location: Lakeland, TN Posts: 1,622	I got a can of the black and a can of the gray about 8 months ago. The black looked really good on a Caspian slide I finished. The gray had a bluish tinge to it and made a test peice of metal I sprayed with it look plasticy, if that's a word. I would not recommend the gray color. It was very easy to apply, but I cannot really comment on the durability of it as my Caspian project got put on hold.

August 2, 2000, 04:18 PM	#4
RickB Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2000 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 8,518	I did one gun all-black a few years ago, and it is holding up pretty well. Holster use will wear the color off the high spots and corners in fairly short order. The parts of the gun that are not directly rubbed by the leather still look like new. I'm currently doing a gun in Wilson CQB-style OD green and black, and the green goes on as well as the black; it's opaque and consistent. The gun is still in pieces, so I don't know if the green will hold up as well as the black, or not. It does give the gun a painted look, but not unattractively so; and it gives the gun a "soft" feel, almost as if it was made from wood rather than metal.

August 2, 2000, 09:43 PM	#5
Sport Senior Member Join Date: October 4, 1999 Posts: 317	Had my gunsmith apply it to the slide of my government model about five months ago. Since then, I've shot at least eight IDPA matches and taken seven days worth of classes; so I've given the finish a fair workout. It is reasonably durable. There is significant wear on the guns dust cover, around the ejection port, and inside the slide. I don't care for the dull black color and the fact it has obliterated the Colt rollmarks on the slide..To me, it looks painted on. I don't know if that was due to a lack of care on the part of the fellow who applied it or the nature of the product. I had it applied only as a temporary finish and will replace with with plating after all the custom work is completed.

August 3, 2000, 07:52 AM	#6
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Big Al, I use it quite a bit in the shop. It's a good, tough finish that will continue to cure with time and get even more scratch resistant. As Sport noted care must be taken not to fill lettering and serial numbers. George

August 3, 2000, 09:27 AM	#7
westcangunner Member Join Date: May 7, 2000 Posts: 77	I have used it on several guns and find it to be quite durable and very easy to apply. It seems to bond best to a glass beaded surface, and its important to make sure your parts are almost HOT when you apply it. I cant speak to holster wear (maybe someday up here...sigh...) and it didnt take long to chip in the mag well and around the ejection port. Id use it again.... WCG

August 3, 2000, 06:15 PM	#8
Big Al Senior Member Join Date: January 3, 2000 Location: West "By God" Virginny, USA Posts: 364	okay, I'm a moron....how do you glass bead a surface? ------------------ Glock 19 S&W 629 Classic KelTec P32 "Oh yeah? Well I talk LOOOUDLY! And I carry a BIIIGGER stick! And I'll use it, too." -Yoesemite Sam

August 4, 2000, 01:05 AM	#9
railroader Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2000 Location: Tucson Arizona Posts: 1,756	Big Al, I think they are referring to bead blasting the old finish off. I think it is similar to sand blasting but with beads instead. I have had several guns done for me by an engine rebuilder in town before using the teflon/moly coat. He does them for me for $10. It sure saves alot of work and time.

August 4, 2000, 08:28 AM	#10
westcangunner Member Join Date: May 7, 2000 Posts: 77	Big Al Glass beading is just like sand blasting except you use tiny tiny glass beads. Glass is much gentler on the parts and you have less chance of peeling the roll marks and numbers off. It produces a dimpled finish that the moly coat seems to bond to better. I did one firearm in moly that I polished, but the moly coat just didnt look very good, my polishing just sucked .... You can also buy plastic beads but Ive never used them... WCG