January 20, 2012, 07:38 PM | #1 |
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problems with pot temp
I have one of the lee 10lb pots... ive had it for over 2 years. and all of a sudden it no longer heats up the lead as hot as it should and takes for ever to get up to proper melting point, far longer than it has in the past... it did have some rust crude on the sides that ive chipped away at... but still no success... any ideas?
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January 20, 2012, 10:24 PM | #2 |
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Replace the heating coil and thermostat. Relatively cheap parts. Heating coil. Thermostat.
You could try the thermostat first to see if that is the defective part. |
January 20, 2012, 11:26 PM | #3 |
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Dunno, sounds like a good excuse to move up to a 20#. I like fixing stuff, and probably would, but a failing furnace may be a sign to move up to something that better suits the volume you're casting today.
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January 21, 2012, 06:58 AM | #4 |
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Mine did the same thing (thermostat fixed mine) but kept it when I moved to the 20# (better control of flow but spout harder to see) then run up on a good used Lyman furnace at a good price !!
10# has straight Lino(21bhn) 20# has Isotope lead with lino ( 14 bhn) Lyman has Isotope lead & tin (10.5bhn)
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February 11, 2012, 08:52 AM | #5 |
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My 20 year old one suddenly displayed the exact same symptoms last year. I added a thermostat to my next Midway order (around $8 IIRC) and that fixed it right up.
I've doubled my lead melter inventory in the last couple of years. I used to cast with either an iron pot on a Coleman stove or the small Lee melter, but I bought the Lyman kit with a 4500 sizer and their electric dipper pot, then I broke down and bought the 20 pound Lee. So now I use the dipper pot for pure lead (muzzle loader), the 20 pounder for wheel weights (pistol bullets) and the old 10 pound pot for straight linotype (rifles). The Coleman stove is mostly reserved for smelting. |
February 15, 2012, 09:58 AM | #6 |
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Did you try cleaning it out?
Mine eventually got a layer of crud on the sides from fluxing. I emptied it out and cleaned it out and it worked great. |
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