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August 10, 2009, 12:13 PM | #1 |
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20 year old rifle, is it safe to shoot?
I found an old Savage 110 rifle. It seems to have been manufactured around 1984. I know these guns last a long time, but what do I need to look for in terms of safety?
I plan on taking it to a gunsmith to be checked out just to be sure, but I would like to know the most improtant things I can look for when inspecting an older rifle. Can anyone help me out with some general guidelines? Thank you. |
August 10, 2009, 12:21 PM | #2 |
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Define "found".
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August 10, 2009, 12:23 PM | #3 |
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"found" at pawn shop.
If it's in good shape safety-wise, it should be a good deal for the price. The owner of the shop has told me that if I take it to a gunsmith and it turns out to be unsafe, that I can return it to him. I would like to know what to look for in general before leaving the store with it and also for future purchases. Thanks. |
August 10, 2009, 12:40 PM | #4 |
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Only a competent gunsmith can tell you with any degree of certainly whether or not a gun is safe.
The alternative is to take it to a private range, strap it to a tire, point it down range, load it, and pull the trigger with a long lanyard.
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August 10, 2009, 12:40 PM | #5 |
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Savage rifles were pretty rough in 1984. I mean like ugh-ly. Often they were sloppy and rattle-y. Check the bolt for slop, check out the bore, check the magazine for smooth operation. If you decide to take it to a smith for a checkup, make sure he checks headspace on it. Generally, I would not be too concerned, but since Savage rifles are easy to work on, someone may have tampered with it.
Before you leave the store, check the operation of the safety and trigger: * Bolt closed, safety on, pull the trigger. The firing pin should not fall. Now push the safety off. Again, the firing pin should not fall. * Bolt open, safety off. Slam the bolt shut quickly. The firing pin should not fall. * Bolt closed, safety off, rifle cocked. Holding the gun by the barrel, bump the buttpad on the floor. The firing pin should not fall.
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Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services Last edited by Scorch; August 10, 2009 at 12:46 PM. |
August 10, 2009, 12:49 PM | #6 |
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Well my best shooting rifle was made in 1935...
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August 10, 2009, 01:08 PM | #7 |
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Other than things that are obvious like receiver cracks, sloppy fitting bolt, loose barrel, etc. the only thing that would come to mind is poor headspace. With a Savage, that is actually more of a problem than most other rifles because the headspace on a Savage is user-adjustable. You never know if the previous owner bubba'd it up. Have your gunsmith do a quick headsplace check (takes all of 30 seconds).
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August 10, 2009, 01:35 PM | #8 |
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If the most questionable part of the rifle was that it was built in 1984, it should be perfectly fine to shoot. If you have other questions, or issues like Scorch outlined, take it to a gunsmith and have it checked.
A well cared for rifle certainly has a self life much longer than 25 years and should last a lifetime or two.
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August 10, 2009, 01:41 PM | #9 |
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It's practically new, take it out and shoot it!!!
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August 10, 2009, 01:54 PM | #10 |
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Well, a week ago I shot my Mauser gewehr 98 from 1917, shot .70 group at 50. No doubt in that rifle, even if its 92 years old.
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August 10, 2009, 01:59 PM | #11 |
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As mentioned, take it to a gunsmith to be sure, but just off hand there's nothing about being "20 years old" that would inherently make a gun unsafe. Heck at 20 years old a rifle is still virtually a baby. I'd actually say that MOST of the guns made between 20 and 50 years ago and actually of much better quality than a lot of what gets churned out today. The majority of my guns are over 50 years and and most still work just like new. I've got a few that pass 75 years and 1 that passes 100. All still shoot fine.
Overall with care a gun will last several lifetimes. |
August 10, 2009, 02:25 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Never taken one of mine to a gunsmith yet... |
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August 10, 2009, 02:26 PM | #13 |
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They were already making Savage 110s for almost 30yrs when yours was produced, so they likely had the hang of it by then. On that particular rifle the barrels are really pretty easy to change out and simply giving the barrel nut, just forward of the receiver, a good visual once over should tell you if that might be the case (if done by Bubba, it could have serious headspace problems). The fact you already plan on having it checked out by a competent gunsmith (should take him/her 10 mins tops) should insure you have a keeper. Good Luck
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August 10, 2009, 04:25 PM | #14 |
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I bought my first Savage 110 way back in 1960 when the model number was also the price $110.00.
It was originally a .243 but around 10 years ago I converted it into a 35-284 wildcat. Back then the quality of finish was much better than nowadays. As far as being strong, unless the gunsmith finds something seriously wrong, Savages are about as strong as most all others made. |
August 10, 2009, 05:07 PM | #15 |
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I can't believe
some of the responces you have received so far but, too each his own. In most cases a 25 year old Savage will be barely broken in, most rifle owners don't put hundreds of round per month through their rifles. Even if this were such a rifle that had had that kind of use chances are that any wear would be minor. The two most likely things that come to mind are throat erosion and severe fouling. Fouling can be cleaned out and, if the throat were severly eroded it could be changed out or set back. But, I am getting ahead of myself. If this were truly an old rifle, like 100 years plus, I would recomend taking it to a smith. In this case I would not bother but, if it makes you feel better, go right ahead. Here Is what I look for when buying a used rifle.
1) Visually inspect the exterior of the gun, checking for scratches on the wood and metal. Look for signs of rust or where it might have been removed. Look for cracks in the stock. Rember wood gets dinged pretty easily so minor dings shouldn't bother you too much. If a 25 year old gun looks good then it has probably been shot little or at least well maintained. Lastly look for anything that isn't there, missing screws etc. 2) Operate the bolt. Savage Bolts aren't the smoothest to begin with, it will drag on opening and closing. When the bolt is back it will have side play even if it is new. As a long as it operates without using excessive force it is fine. I have 9 Savages so I know of what I speak. 3) Get a borelight and look down the bore, even if you do not know what you are looking for, at least you will look like you do. If you can make out the lands and th grooves and there is plenty of light you are good to go. You will probably see some fouling, smal dark spots in the barrel, most people do not get all of the crud out of their barrels. If that is what you see when you look down the tube , don't even hesitate. If you don't see plenty of light then you should ask if you can run a brush and a couple patches down thebore. If he won't let you do it, or do it for you, then walk away or take it the smith before buying. 4) Remember, this is a Savage. If someone hadn't already coined the phrase, "built like a tank" we would be saying "built like a Savage" when we wanted people to know that something was RUGGED. |
August 10, 2009, 05:22 PM | #16 |
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I guess that I like to live dangerously. I've got an Argentine Mauser, manufactured around the early 1900's, very sloppy bolt without being locked up, that I inherited from my father. The last time he shot it was over thirty years ago. I bought some fresh ammo. Went out to the range with a heavy coat and gloves, held it at my hip, turned my head and fired. Checked the case out, nothing wrong with it. Shot about ten more rounds. Took it home, cleaned it, put it in the gun safe where it will stay until I decide to shoot it again. Probably not very smart but I did the same thing with an old double barrel 12gauge that I inherited from my mothers uncle. Shot fine so I had the barrels chopped to 20" and made a "coach gun" out of it. I love that shotgun. Your results may vary so I am not advising anyone to do it my way!
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August 10, 2009, 06:02 PM | #17 |
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My '96 Mauser says "1903". My birth certificate says "1949". Both of us work just fine, thank you!
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August 10, 2009, 06:08 PM | #18 |
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If it looks OK, no obvious cracks or anything, I would clean the bore and the bolt+internals and shoot it without hesitation.
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August 10, 2009, 06:08 PM | #19 |
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#1 Rule. Make sure the barrel is unobstructed.
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August 10, 2009, 06:18 PM | #20 |
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Dang, make me fell old how about it. I have 7 (I think) long guns and the "youngest" one, a 700 BDL that I bought last year, was made in '84. The rest range from my Grandfather's Fox SxS made in 1903 to a 870 Wingmaster that the widow of a friend of mine gave me that was made in the 60's or 70's.
My hand guns range from a few months old to a FN 1910 made in the 30's. I still shoot them all with no worry. When talking about gun age is truly nothing but a number. With proper care any decent gun should last at least four generations. |
August 10, 2009, 07:19 PM | #21 |
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Over half my guns are older than 1984 and all work fine. Heck, one is a 1913!
Anyway, good advice above, have it checked out before firing. Odds are it's fine. Guns don't wear out from age, only from heavy use and abuse. |
August 10, 2009, 08:30 PM | #22 |
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If the thing is rusted, went through a fire, bolt swapped with another rifle, those are things that could cause problems.
Metals were a mature science by the time you get to the 40's. Getting mature in the late 20's. WW1 to 1900, can be very iffy. Pre 1900, is very iffy as the basic principles in metullurgy were ideas bandied around by academics. Anything since WWII, don't worry about it at all. |
August 10, 2009, 08:44 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
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August 10, 2009, 08:46 PM | #24 |
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Whether or not it's safe to shoot has nothing to do with whether it's 20 years old or not. A decent quality rifle will last virtually indefinitely if it's been reasonably well maintained.
If you're concerned about the safety of the rifle, you can either take it to a gunsmith or contact the manufacturer and see if they'll look it over for you.
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August 10, 2009, 08:53 PM | #25 |
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Thanks guys. I'm learning a ton about rifles and loving every minute of it! I know most of my questions are pretty basic stuff to a ot of you guys but if I don't ask I could end up making a huge mistake fr lack of knowledge; so if I want to learn about something I just ask.
Thank you for all the great replies. I checked the rifle, and it looks good. There are no big dings or scratches in the metal or stock, so it certainly does not look abused. There are a few small scratches, but I think it just looks used. The barrel looks a little dirty inside, but the rifling looks as good as any of the others I looked at. There is no rust or pitting, and the bold is tight when closed, and has smooth action when opening and closing it. The safety works fine and everything seems tight. It is dirty, but nothing a thorough cleaning and oiling shouldn't cure. From whit I have learned through this post and looking at this rifle, I think I'm getting a good deal. He wants $200 for it but finally said he'd take $175 for it. There is no scope, but it has rings for one. I think a little cleaning and TLC and I should have a solid gun for $175. Thanks again for all the input and advice. I am learning and loving every minute of it! |
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