February 24, 2010, 10:45 PM | #1 |
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primer crimp question
Hey .223 reloading pros.
I'm new to reloading military brass (just got my first AR-15, what a blast!) I've read about reaming the crimps out of the primer pockets on this brass. I've reloaded about 40 rounds of WCC brass, as well as some Lake City crimped brass three or four times, and have never had a problem either removing or installing primers. Is reaming the pockets necessary if I am not having trouble. Will not reaming the pockets effect the accuracy or reliablility of my ammo? Thanks. |
February 25, 2010, 01:04 AM | #2 |
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If you aren't having problems with primer removal or seating, then don't worry about modifying primer pockets.
If you reload enough military brass, you will run into some that has to be processed to allow you to seat primers properly. Until then - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Addressing your accuracy question - accuracy = repeatability; meaning that every shot needs to be as close to the same as the previous shots as possible. Primer pockets do have an effect, but they are one of the last things to look at, many other factors are far more important. As far as reliability, the reasons that military ammunition has crimped or staked primers don't affect most recreational firearm use. If your primers are getting crushed as a result of not removing the staking or crimping, you may experience some failures to fire. Last edited by Dr. Strangelove; February 25, 2010 at 01:18 AM. |
February 25, 2010, 01:14 AM | #3 |
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PM Sent
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February 25, 2010, 11:52 AM | #4 |
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Thanks guys, appreciate the info.
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February 25, 2010, 01:31 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
Jimro
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February 25, 2010, 02:41 PM | #6 |
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And it's not always even necessary even if you're the first person to reload it. Like the original poster, I have quite a bit of Lake City brass, and in the process of determining exactly how much I need to swage them, I found that I could actually re-prime them pretty easily without swaging them *at all*.
Maybe it's because I'm using a handheld priming tool rather than priming them on the press, or maybe it's because I'm using the CCI #41 primers with cups that are harder than normal primers - I don't know. But now I know that the amount of swaging isn't critical, so I just hit them lightly with the swager rather than trying to remove all signs of the original crimp (since trying to remove the crimp entirely was deforming the case heads, making them hard to insert into the shell holder.) |
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