Tower flintlock pistol. A few noobie questions. - Page 2

Edward429451 · September 30, 2011, 11:06 PM

The pan is to be primed first? Is that correct?

Hawg · October 1, 2011, 04:37 AM

No, prime the pan after you load.

B.L.E. · October 1, 2011, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edward429451

The pan is to be primed first? Is that correct?

Historically, the soldiers armed with flintlock muskets were drilled to tear open the paper cartridge that held a premeasured charge of 2f along with the round ball using their teeth.
First a small amount of the 2F was put in the pan, the frizzen closed, and then the rest of the charge was poured down the barrel then the ball was rammed down along with the rest of the paper cartridge which acted as an overshot wad to keep the ball from rolling out of the barrel.

Don't do it that way, it's too dangerous, you are not desperately fighting off Redcoats or Indians.
I don't even think the historical re-enactors take historical accuracy to this point.
Cannon crews also take liberties from strict historical accuracy in the interest of safety.
Priming first is also a good way to get kicked off of most shooting ranges today.

If reenactors want to be really authentic, they would have to find a way to turn themselves into 18 year old boys again.

Southron · October 2, 2011, 08:23 PM

First of all, IF your pistol is made in Europe anytime in the past 500 or so years it will have PROOF MARKS somewhere on the barrel.

Therefore- If you don't see any Proof Marks on the top of the barrel, remove it from the stock and look for proof marks on the underside of the barrel.

Proof Marks changed from time to time over the centuries. So, look up the Proof Marks on the internet and from there you can determine within 30 or 50 years when the gun was made and where it was made (at least the country.)

My guess is that the gun was made within the past 60 years-cobbled together from parts, probably in Belgium and sold in the U.S. via magazine ad in the 1950's or 1960's.

Smooth bore flintlock pistols were made in both .72 and .69 caliber in the past.

Whatever you do, a decent gunsmith that is knowledgeable about muzzleloaders needs to look at the gun to determine IF it is safe to shoot.

GOOD LUCK

October 2, 2011, 08:23 PM	#29
Southron Member Join Date: November 28, 2009 Posts: 40	What To Do First of all, IF your pistol is made in Europe anytime in the past 500 or so years it will have PROOF MARKS somewhere on the barrel. Therefore- If you don't see any Proof Marks on the top of the barrel, remove it from the stock and look for proof marks on the underside of the barrel. Proof Marks changed from time to time over the centuries. So, look up the Proof Marks on the internet and from there you can determine within 30 or 50 years when the gun was made and where it was made (at least the country.) My guess is that the gun was made within the past 60 years-cobbled together from parts, probably in Belgium and sold in the U.S. via magazine ad in the 1950's or 1960's. Smooth bore flintlock pistols were made in both .72 and .69 caliber in the past. Whatever you do, a decent gunsmith that is knowledgeable about muzzleloaders needs to look at the gun to determine IF it is safe to shoot. GOOD LUCK

September 30, 2011, 11:06 PM	#26
Edward429451 Junior member Join Date: November 12, 2000 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 9,494	The pan is to be primed first? Is that correct?

October 1, 2011, 04:37 AM	#27
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	No, prime the pan after you load.