Casting

Buzzard · November 6, 2005, 08:55 AM

OK I just bought a lead melting pot at a yard sale it is a Lee IV
Now the /question is what do I need,other than molds, to start casting, I am asking about sizers and lube and all that.
I want to cast for my .44mag to start with.
Thanks

sundog · November 6, 2005, 09:35 AM

Rick, I suggest the next thing you get is the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual. It will explain the whole process very well, and provide load data. sundog

Quantrill · November 6, 2005, 09:40 AM

Lyman Cast Bullet Manual is a winner! Quantrill

Cloudpeak · November 6, 2005, 09:57 AM

Buzzard,

Here's a great resource: http://cast_boolits.aimoo.com/

The Lee 4 seems to have a pretty good reputation. I plan on buying one in a few weeks. I've been doing the small pot/dipper method for several thousand bullets for my 40 S&W using a Lee 6 cavity mold. The bottom pour Lee should be easier and faster.

25 - 30 years ago, I cast 250 gr. Keith bullets out of a 4 cavity Lyman mold for my Ruger 6 1/2" flat top 44 mag. Lots of fun.

Cloudpeak

**Unclenick** · November 6, 2005, 11:44 AM

The Lyman book is a good suggestion, so you have procedure laid out to follow. You will need:

For Casting

Casting alloy (wheel weights are an OK start, but a little 50/50 lead/tin plumbing solder to increase the tin content will get you prettier bullets).

Casting flux (bee's was or wax-type bullet lube is OK to start, but Marvelux from Brownells is better).

A lead thermometer is a useful option. Traditionally the Lyman type is used. Look on-line for inexpensive thermocouple thermometers as an alternative. Some come from China now.

A sprue plate striker (I use a 10" length of 1½" oak dowel with a layer of leather around the business end). You don’t need this with the six-cavity Lee molds that have a third handle for sprue cut-off.

A catch bucket for water and a sponge to catch bullets dropping out of the mold.

Get a pair of long-cuff leather welder's gloves.

Get a full face shield.

Get a leather welder's apron.

Get a ventilating fan if you are casting indoors or a floor fan to blow the vapors away from you if you are casting outdoors.

Get an old paint can to throw unfluxable dross and other unusable scrap into. Check with local authorities to learn how to legally dispose of these things in your area. They are not usually allowed in regular landfill trash any more due to the potential for water contamination.

After Casting

You will want a scale to check for weight uniformity (at least at the beginning and until you get a feel for what good bullets cast like); a powder scale is usually used.

If you use the Lee tumble lube bullets (I find these exceptionally accurate in .38 wadcutter) you will need a bottle of their liquid Alox lube.

If you use a conventional bullet mold design, you will need a lubricating/sizing method. There are a number of options here. You can use a Lee sizing die and tumble lube on a press. If you find this lubrication method inadequate for the velocities and/or alloy you use and want to try a stick lube, I find the RCBS Lube-a-matic 2 is a bit more rugged than the old Lyman unit. But I haven’t seen the newer Lyman 4500 up close, so I can’t tell you about that one. The latter has a heater option for hard lubes, while the RCBS requires an aftermarket heater if you need one. Both can use the Lyman and RCBS sizing dies interchangeably.

For higher velocities you will either want conventional gas checks or polyethylene wads (p-wads). The P-wads work even with molded bullets that have no gas-check base because they go into the case over the powder. Both types of gas check prevent burning powder from melting the bullet base and trying to solder alloy to your bore (leading).

The Hornady gas checks have a crimp edge that hangs on to the bullet base. The Lyman type are straight-sided and are stuck on by the lube. There are arguments for both, but the Hornady type are generally more popular.

Others will have pet items to add to the list, based on their experience, but I think this will give you a sense of what you’re in for.

Nick

Poygan · November 6, 2005, 09:33 PM

Buzzard,
As with most hobbies, a lot depends on how much you are willing to spend. A laddle is necessary unless the Lee is a bottom-pour model. I use two Lees - one to melt wheel weights and clear up the clips and other various crud and the bottom-pour with the clean metal. I use an muffin pan to cast ingots for the bottom-pour. Lee makes a push through sizer that works in your reloading press. I used to melt alox-beeswax 50/50 in a shallow pan and dip the bullets with a needle nose pliers. A wooden mallet is a good idea so you don't beat up the mold. I have a lead theromometer...I think I used it twice. I drop the freshly cast bullets on a towel to avoid damage. If I want harder bullets, I drop them directly into a 5 gallon pail of water. Pure wheel weights work well for me as I cast mostly for handguns. I prefer RCBS molds, then Lyman and finally Lee. I prefer wax for fluxing over Marvelux which seems to promote rusting in my Lees.
If you choose to spend more initially, a lube/sizer is faster and neater than the dip and size method I described above. I have a lead hardness tester but I don't think you'll need one for a while, if ever.
For molds, although there are many choices for the .44, I'd suggest a Lyman 429421 for a non gas check bullet at 240 grains or the RCBS at 240 grains with a gas check.
But, I must warn you...casting can be an addicting hobby!!

November 6, 2005, 08:55 AM	#1
Buzzard Senior Member Join Date: July 13, 2005 Location: Kingman AZ Posts: 479	Casting OK I just bought a lead melting pot at a yard sale it is a Lee IV Now the /question is what do I need,other than molds, to start casting, I am asking about sizers and lube and all that. I want to cast for my .44mag to start with. Thanks __________________ Rick in Kingman AZ , Super Comanche 45LC/410 , ,Armscor .38 4, Marlin 60 & An UGLY 12ga , Savage Axis .223

November 6, 2005, 09:35 AM	#2
sundog Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 1999 Location: Green Country, OK Posts: 782	Rick, I suggest the next thing you get is the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual. It will explain the whole process very well, and provide load data. sundog __________________ safety first

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November 6, 2005, 09:40 AM	#3
Quantrill Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 1999 Location: Arizona, USA Posts: 725	Lyman Cast Bullet Manual is a winner! Quantrill

November 6, 2005, 09:57 AM	#4
Cloudpeak Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Wyoming Posts: 288	Buzzard, Here's a great resource: http://cast_boolits.aimoo.com/ The Lee 4 seems to have a pretty good reputation. I plan on buying one in a few weeks. I've been doing the small pot/dipper method for several thousand bullets for my 40 S&W using a Lee 6 cavity mold. The bottom pour Lee should be easier and faster. 25 - 30 years ago, I cast 250 gr. Keith bullets out of a 4 cavity Lyman mold for my Ruger 6 1/2" flat top 44 mag. Lots of fun. Cloudpeak

November 6, 2005, 11:44 AM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,060	The Lyman book is a good suggestion, so you have procedure laid out to follow. You will need: For Casting Casting alloy (wheel weights are an OK start, but a little 50/50 lead/tin plumbing solder to increase the tin content will get you prettier bullets). Casting flux (bee's was or wax-type bullet lube is OK to start, but Marvelux from Brownells is better). A lead thermometer is a useful option. Traditionally the Lyman type is used. Look on-line for inexpensive thermocouple thermometers as an alternative. Some come from China now. A sprue plate striker (I use a 10" length of 1½" oak dowel with a layer of leather around the business end). You don’t need this with the six-cavity Lee molds that have a third handle for sprue cut-off. A catch bucket for water and a sponge to catch bullets dropping out of the mold. Get a pair of long-cuff leather welder's gloves. Get a full face shield. Get a leather welder's apron. Get a ventilating fan if you are casting indoors or a floor fan to blow the vapors away from you if you are casting outdoors. Get an old paint can to throw unfluxable dross and other unusable scrap into. Check with local authorities to learn how to legally dispose of these things in your area. They are not usually allowed in regular landfill trash any more due to the potential for water contamination. After Casting You will want a scale to check for weight uniformity (at least at the beginning and until you get a feel for what good bullets cast like); a powder scale is usually used. If you use the Lee tumble lube bullets (I find these exceptionally accurate in .38 wadcutter) you will need a bottle of their liquid Alox lube. If you use a conventional bullet mold design, you will need a lubricating/sizing method. There are a number of options here. You can use a Lee sizing die and tumble lube on a press. If you find this lubrication method inadequate for the velocities and/or alloy you use and want to try a stick lube, I find the RCBS Lube-a-matic 2 is a bit more rugged than the old Lyman unit. But I haven’t seen the newer Lyman 4500 up close, so I can’t tell you about that one. The latter has a heater option for hard lubes, while the RCBS requires an aftermarket heater if you need one. Both can use the Lyman and RCBS sizing dies interchangeably. For higher velocities you will either want conventional gas checks or polyethylene wads (p-wads). The P-wads work even with molded bullets that have no gas-check base because they go into the case over the powder. Both types of gas check prevent burning powder from melting the bullet base and trying to solder alloy to your bore (leading). The Hornady gas checks have a crimp edge that hangs on to the bullet base. The Lyman type are straight-sided and are stuck on by the lube. There are arguments for both, but the Hornady type are generally more popular. Others will have pet items to add to the list, based on their experience, but I think this will give you a sense of what you’re in for. Nick

November 6, 2005, 09:33 PM	#6
Poygan Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2004 Posts: 125	Buzzard, As with most hobbies, a lot depends on how much you are willing to spend. A laddle is necessary unless the Lee is a bottom-pour model. I use two Lees - one to melt wheel weights and clear up the clips and other various crud and the bottom-pour with the clean metal. I use an muffin pan to cast ingots for the bottom-pour. Lee makes a push through sizer that works in your reloading press. I used to melt alox-beeswax 50/50 in a shallow pan and dip the bullets with a needle nose pliers. A wooden mallet is a good idea so you don't beat up the mold. I have a lead theromometer...I think I used it twice. I drop the freshly cast bullets on a towel to avoid damage. If I want harder bullets, I drop them directly into a 5 gallon pail of water. Pure wheel weights work well for me as I cast mostly for handguns. I prefer RCBS molds, then Lyman and finally Lee. I prefer wax for fluxing over Marvelux which seems to promote rusting in my Lees. If you choose to spend more initially, a lube/sizer is faster and neater than the dip and size method I described above. I have a lead hardness tester but I don't think you'll need one for a while, if ever. For molds, although there are many choices for the .44, I'd suggest a Lyman 429421 for a non gas check bullet at 240 grains or the RCBS at 240 grains with a gas check. But, I must warn you...casting can be an addicting hobby!!