Removing the barrel from Ruger #3

BumbleBug · February 23, 2015, 02:30 PM

I've been considering re-barreling a Ruger #3. One of the books I've been reading recommends modifying a barrel vice to allow clearance for the hangar bar. It is recommended that a cut-out be made something like this:

Here is the action & hangar:

The book also says that you can only rotate 1/8 turn then loosen the vice & re-adjust. Can't you just make some shims & clamp past the hangar? For those that have rebarrels #1's or #3's are they tough to get off? Also any suggestions on the action wrench?

TIA...

..bug

Dixie Gunsmithing · February 23, 2015, 03:35 PM

It according to what you make that out of. Oak may split, and aluminum will need to be milled. It may even be best to cut it into two pieces after making the slot, since it will grip tighter, and can be removed easy after the vise is loosened. You would have to put the block in sideways, over the splitting, in a barrel vise that is conventional, or simply put it between the jaws of a large bench vise. A little tape will hold the halves together until you torque it down in the jaws.

I would make sure that the grip pressure is on the barrel, and the hanger doesn't get torqued when breaking the barrel loose. I'm not sure what that might do to it.

You can grip in front of it, but it's a tapered hole. They tend to loosen up, but I've done it by making a longer block of white oak, and using rosin powder.

jaguarxk120 · February 23, 2015, 03:55 PM

Before you put a wrench on that No.3 check and see what is worth today.

Ruger did not make very many No.3's and collector value is very high on some of them if not all of them.

BumbleBug · February 23, 2015, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaguarxk120

Before you put a wrench on that No.3 check and see what is worth today.

Ruger did not make very many No.3's and collector value is very high on some of them if not all of them.

Yes, I know what you are saying, but this particular rifle has already been rebarreled to a .270 Win with a fly-weight 22" Apex barrel. With scope & all it weighs just a tad over 6 lbs. Along with the tiny butt stock & forend, the recoil is substantial but manageable for hunting. It is handy as all get-out for carrying or hunting out of a blind. My main complaint is that it is difficult to shoot accurately. The rifle is critical to how you rest it or hold it. It recoils (along with the shot) away from what ever it is rested. Vertical stringing off sand bags was common until I learned to have the exact same pressure points & hold for each shot. I'm looking to rebarrel in 6.8mm SPC with a Shilen light varmint contour blank that I already have.

Thanks for your input...

jaguarxk120 · February 23, 2015, 06:28 PM

Since the rifle has already been altered any collector intrest is gone, so you are free to do what you wish with it.

February 23, 2015, 02:30 PM	#1
BumbleBug Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 2013 Location: Near Heart of Texas Posts: 870	Removing the barrel from Ruger #3 I've been considering re-barreling a Ruger #3. One of the books I've been reading recommends modifying a barrel vice to allow clearance for the hangar bar. It is recommended that a cut-out be made something like this: Here is the action & hangar: The book also says that you can only rotate 1/8 turn then loosen the vice & re-adjust. Can't you just make some shims & clamp past the hangar? For those that have rebarrels #1's or #3's are they tough to get off? Also any suggestions on the action wrench? TIA... ..bug

February 23, 2015, 03:35 PM	#2
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	It according to what you make that out of. Oak may split, and aluminum will need to be milled. It may even be best to cut it into two pieces after making the slot, since it will grip tighter, and can be removed easy after the vise is loosened. You would have to put the block in sideways, over the splitting, in a barrel vise that is conventional, or simply put it between the jaws of a large bench vise. A little tape will hold the halves together until you torque it down in the jaws. I would make sure that the grip pressure is on the barrel, and the hanger doesn't get torqued when breaking the barrel loose. I'm not sure what that might do to it. You can grip in front of it, but it's a tapered hole. They tend to loosen up, but I've done it by making a longer block of white oak, and using rosin powder.

February 23, 2015, 03:55 PM	#3
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,619	Before you put a wrench on that No.3 check and see what is worth today. Ruger did not make very many No.3's and collector value is very high on some of them if not all of them.

February 23, 2015, 06:28 PM	#5
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,619	Since the rifle has already been altered any collector intrest is gone, so you are free to do what you wish with it.