.357 Sig reloading ?

mechdriver · October 23, 2006, 10:46 AM

I recently aquired a 357 sig and am going to set up for reloading this caliber. Does anyone have any experience to share, Die recommendations, loads, caveats to be aware of?
This will be the first bottle neck pistol round I ahve reloaded. I have years of experience reloading both rifle and handgun rounds but I am hoping to avoid mistakes by tamping into this knowledge base.
Thanks

VaFisher · October 23, 2006, 06:05 PM

Looks like I have the same issue. I was thinking of ordering a set of lee carbide dies and going from there. Should not be any difference then loading rifle except it being small and shorter. Not sure on the tip I am going to use yet but have been shooting hollow points so far that I purchased from Georga Arms. Maybe someone else will tune in and share some fine points of interest on these.

azredhawk44 · October 23, 2006, 06:12 PM

I load its big brother, the 400 corbon.

2 big things I had to learn were that I had to be extremely careful re-sizing or I could end up mashing the case, and also to use the lee factory crimp die when using lead bullets to eliminate bullet setback.

Bullets with cannelures will serve better than smooth sided bullets. This lets the case mouth grip the bullet more securely.

You want to crimp pretty tightly since the cartridge doesn't headspace off the mouth; it does so off the cartridge shoulder.

VUPDblue · October 23, 2006, 08:58 PM

First off, make sure you get carbide dies. I got into reloading the .357 when it was first introduced and the only dies I could get at the time were steel dies. It really is a pain to lube and dry such small cases. The best performing loads I have mastered with the .357 were using the Speer .357 sig 125gr gold dots. I have had some success using 9mm bullets, but only HP's or flat points. Hope this helps.

nick

Ausserordeutlich · October 23, 2006, 10:24 PM

Use slow powders. If you use a cannelured bullet, then you'll need a roll-crimp die. Many .357 Sig die sets come with taper crimp dies. You don't taper crimp a cannelured bullet. If your set comes with a roll-crimp die, then don't try to roll crimp non-cannelured bullets.

Everything I've read about carbide dies for bottleneck cases says that the cases should be lubed. Some folks first size with a .40 carbide die, then use the .357 Sig die to bump the shoulder. In that scenario, you wouldn't need to lube.

caz223 · October 24, 2006, 10:03 AM

Carbide dies are hard to find, the only ones I know of are the dillon carbides at over $100 just for the sizer. Pricey!
I got the set of dillon carbide used at a gun shot for $40, and I can use them without lube if I tumble the brass in media with polish in it.
It's much smoother with the use of some hornady one shot, so I use it anyway.
Just get the standard dies, they work fine.
You really don't need much lube.
The RCBS set that everybody normally stocks has a ROLL crimper in it.
While it works, I'd advise crimping with the Lee factory crimp die for bottleneck pistol cartridges.
It's the only caliber I recommend the factory crimp die in.
I'd also recommend WIN or STARLINE cases.
Also, use flat point or hollow point bullets.
Standard FMJ won't work, there isn't enough neck to seat properly.
Also, bell the least you can.

shu · October 25, 2006, 05:53 AM

lots of 357sig information on the boards, if you look for it.

bullet set-back (the avoidance thereof) is the driving concern.

chose a flat nose or other bullet shape which has a good long cylindrical portion before it starts to lose diameter.

i favor a slow burning powder because: a) typically will fill the case and help the setback issue; b) if you're not after the full power capability of the cartridge, just skip it and go with 9mm. Bluedot works for me; some favor AA #9.

if you must try it, go ahead and get some 40 s&w cases, neck them down and load them for 357sig. don't make too many of them, because you will find it does not work.

rangermonroe · October 25, 2006, 06:17 AM

Quote:

if you must try it, go ahead and get some 40 s&w cases, neck them down and load them for 357sig. don't make too many of them, because you will find it does not work.

I have done this, and it does work. Just poorly. The case will be too short for the bullet to be gripped very tightly. As you reload a few times, the case will lengthen, and will be virtually indistinguishable from any other sig brass.

mechdriver · November 9, 2006, 11:09 AM

Thanks for the all the useful info.
Does anyone have any experience using the Lee dies on a 550b? Would this be a good choice?
Also, any pet loads would be great.

Thanks again.
Mech

ryucasta · November 9, 2006, 11:25 AM

Hope this helps...

October 23, 2006, 10:46 AM	#1
mechdriver Member Join Date: June 14, 2006 Location: NC Posts: 44	.357 Sig reloading ? I recently aquired a 357 sig and am going to set up for reloading this caliber. Does anyone have any experience to share, Die recommendations, loads, caveats to be aware of? This will be the first bottle neck pistol round I ahve reloaded. I have years of experience reloading both rifle and handgun rounds but I am hoping to avoid mistakes by tamping into this knowledge base. Thanks

October 23, 2006, 08:58 PM	#4
VUPDblue Senior Member Join Date: December 18, 2005 Location: Central Indiana Posts: 1,981	First off, make sure you get carbide dies. I got into reloading the .357 when it was first introduced and the only dies I could get at the time were steel dies. It really is a pain to lube and dry such small cases. The best performing loads I have mastered with the .357 were using the Speer .357 sig 125gr gold dots. I have had some success using 9mm bullets, but only HP's or flat points. Hope this helps. nick __________________ Silencers have NEVER been illegal !

October 24, 2006, 10:03 AM	#6
caz223 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,429	Carbide dies are hard to find, the only ones I know of are the dillon carbides at over $100 just for the sizer. Pricey! I got the set of dillon carbide used at a gun shot for $40, and I can use them without lube if I tumble the brass in media with polish in it. It's much smoother with the use of some hornady one shot, so I use it anyway. Just get the standard dies, they work fine. You really don't need much lube. The RCBS set that everybody normally stocks has a ROLL crimper in it. While it works, I'd advise crimping with the Lee factory crimp die for bottleneck pistol cartridges. It's the only caliber I recommend the factory crimp die in. I'd also recommend WIN or STARLINE cases. Also, use flat point or hollow point bullets. Standard FMJ won't work, there isn't enough neck to seat properly. Also, bell the least you can. __________________ I'm not just a gun. I'm YOUR gun. (Hold me.)

October 25, 2006, 05:53 AM	#7
shu Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2000 Location: lower rio grande valley, texas Posts: 216	lots of 357sig information on the boards, if you look for it. bullet set-back (the avoidance thereof) is the driving concern. chose a flat nose or other bullet shape which has a good long cylindrical portion before it starts to lose diameter. i favor a slow burning powder because: a) typically will fill the case and help the setback issue; b) if you're not after the full power capability of the cartridge, just skip it and go with 9mm. Bluedot works for me; some favor AA #9. if you must try it, go ahead and get some 40 s&w cases, neck them down and load them for 357sig. don't make too many of them, because you will find it does not work. __________________ If you would have Liberty you must accept that individual security is not the responsiblity of government. You must. - XAVIER ONASIS

October 23, 2006, 06:05 PM	#2
VaFisher Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2006 Posts: 596	Looks like I have the same issue. I was thinking of ordering a set of lee carbide dies and going from there. Should not be any difference then loading rifle except it being small and shorter. Not sure on the tip I am going to use yet but have been shooting hollow points so far that I purchased from Georga Arms. Maybe someone else will tune in and share some fine points of interest on these.

October 23, 2006, 06:12 PM	#3
azredhawk44 Junior member Join Date: September 28, 2005 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 6,465	I load its big brother, the 400 corbon. 2 big things I had to learn were that I had to be extremely careful re-sizing or I could end up mashing the case, and also to use the lee factory crimp die when using lead bullets to eliminate bullet setback. Bullets with cannelures will serve better than smooth sided bullets. This lets the case mouth grip the bullet more securely. You want to crimp pretty tightly since the cartridge doesn't headspace off the mouth; it does so off the cartridge shoulder.

October 23, 2006, 10:24 PM	#5
Ausserordeutlich Junior member Join Date: May 27, 2006 Posts: 996	Use slow powders. If you use a cannelured bullet, then you'll need a roll-crimp die. Many .357 Sig die sets come with taper crimp dies. You don't taper crimp a cannelured bullet. If your set comes with a roll-crimp die, then don't try to roll crimp non-cannelured bullets. Everything I've read about carbide dies for bottleneck cases says that the cases should be lubed. Some folks first size with a .40 carbide die, then use the .357 Sig die to bump the shoulder. In that scenario, you wouldn't need to lube.

November 9, 2006, 11:09 AM	#9
mechdriver Member Join Date: June 14, 2006 Location: NC Posts: 44	Thanks for the all the useful info. Does anyone have any experience using the Lee dies on a 550b? Would this be a good choice? Also, any pet loads would be great. Thanks again. Mech