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Old November 24, 2012, 11:39 PM   #1
DASHZNT
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.308 Reloading Question/Help...

Just a precursor... Ive been reloading several different calibers successfully. The only rifle round I reload is .223 and I am very proficient with those as well. That being said, I have a hunger to learn more calibers and different techniques. Therefore, I cll on those that know what they are doing to help me figure out what I am doing wrong here with .308 Winchester. Btw, Im using a Dillon 550.

I am reloading for my Remington 700 SS R5 MilSpec. Im making a dummy round (No Primer or Powder), as I do with all of my caliber ammo. Im wanting to load with the Sierra Match King 175gr HPBT Projectile. The issue I am having is that I cannot get the bolt to fully close after making a round t0 2.800 OAL. I my factory loaded ammo that cycles fine in this rifle and it cycles fine, its seated at 2.788. Therefore, I proceed to slowly seat the projectile deeper by .001 and nothing, I take it as far as 2.775 with no success. I cannot figure this out, it makes no sense to me. I finally decided to put everything away for the evening and tackle this another day, hopefully with knowledge from you guys that know what youre doing.

I had this issue occur in the field a while back when I changed the trigger guard to a 10rd magazine, the bolt would be almost completely closed but it wasnt, I unscrewed the trigger guard and screwed it back in slowly tightening down until everything worked fine and closed fully and the rifle worked, it was not fun to do in the field but i had to think fast then. I cant imagine thats what needs to be done here but I just thought id throw that tid bit in for good measure.

I hope im not confusing anyone here, but I can really use some help here as Im currently stuck right now and was looking forward to getting some trigger time and work up a good load in the process... This Sux!!

Thank You for reading and offering your thoughts.
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Old November 25, 2012, 12:09 AM   #2
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Ram it in there deeper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:d
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Old November 25, 2012, 12:10 AM   #3
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I did that already! Cmon.. please dont waste my time with silly answers.
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Old November 25, 2012, 01:45 AM   #4
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Have you recently messed with your action screws?. As you already know,Factory ammo is neither full length sized or fire formed it is in some odd ball inbetween stage. If your rear action screw is set to tight a bolt not closing is excatly what happens. Remember-tighten front action screws first then the rear. Never rear first
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Old November 25, 2012, 02:18 AM   #5
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I messed with them but not recently. I bought the rifle new a couple months ago. I upgraded the trigger guard to the one made for it by HS precision so I have a 10 round magazine. When I finally took it out for the first time, the bolt would not close and I backed out those screws and reassembled and it worked, it was in the field so no torque wrench or anything just by hand, dunno if that matters. Secondly, I havent used it since that day and it was only 12 rounds. I put through it. I cleaned it and oiled very well as I do to all my guns and put it away in its pelican case.

Recently, I decided to reload for it. I resized some brass and checked for length and picked one that was at 2.005" long. I loaded up a "dummy" round with no primer or powder to make sure everything was ok. I set the depth to 2.800 as recommended and it would close. I gradually sat the projectile further down with no luck, the bolt would still not close. Needless to say though, it chambers the factory ammo very well.. but the bold still closes a little on the tight side.

What do I do to fix this? My goal is to make handloads for this rifle as I like the SK 175gr rounds but dont like paying close to $3.00 per round when I can reload for $0.50 and control the quality better.

Does that help you out of dyou need more information from me to better assist me on this issue?
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Old November 25, 2012, 02:38 AM   #6
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How does the headspace of your dummy round that doesn't fit compare with the factory ammo that does fit?
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Old November 25, 2012, 02:49 AM   #7
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They both drop into the case guage I have perfectly.

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Old November 25, 2012, 02:50 AM   #8
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I was on dillons website and it says to try screw the resizer in deeper. I did that just now to no avail.. Same issue, even tried another piece of brass too!

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Old November 25, 2012, 02:51 AM   #9
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Arrrgh!!! This is really ******* me off!!!
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:03 AM   #10
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OK. So--your bolt won't close, and you have traced the cause to your action screws? In other words, the bolt is binding on the forward screw?

If so--STOP.

Remove BOTH screws and compare the length. One screw should be shorter than the other. If this is the case, put the shorter one in the front, reassemble and try it again. If the rifle proves, you've solved the problem.

If the problem is NOT solved, then you should call Remington and describe the problem. They'll probably send you some proper screws, with some guidance on re-assembly.

NOTE: The regular Remington torque values for stock screws is 10-15 inch pounds--but there are some Remington rifles that carry a torque value of as much as 45 inch pounds. Consult Remington for the proper specs for your rifle.

Hope this helps!
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:15 AM   #11
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It loads all my factory ammo fine... i cannot seem to get it to chamber a reload. Ive adjusted my die low enough to possibly break my machine. I just cant seem to get these shells to resize properly to chamber correctly! I dont need to take apart the rifle if theyre not resized right.
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:22 AM   #12
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Hm.

Second question, then...are you crimping your rounds? If so, how are you doing it?

Also--where exactly is the ammo hanging up and/or binding? Is it doing it as the ammunition barely enters the chamber? When the bolt is almost all the way closed?

Does the bolt close with force? When you extract the round, does the bullet show engraving from the lands?

I also load with the 175 grain MatchKing, seated to 2.820 COAL. I trim to 2.000 even, on top of 41.5 of RL15. I use Federal once fired cases, and I have some Remington and Lake City Match brass as well.
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:26 AM   #13
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By the way, what kind/brand of dies are you using?
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:29 AM   #14
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Dillon 550 Press and Dillon .308 Dies

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Old November 25, 2012, 04:36 AM   #15
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OK.

I have absolutely NO experience with Dillon rifle dies...but I do 95% of my loading on a Dillon 650, and that includes the "fun" rounds for .308.

However, I have had excellent luck with Lee dies. I use these almost exclusively, and my .308 rounds work well in my bolt action rifles and my M1A.

Have you considered getting a different sizer die? You can buy those separately.
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Old November 25, 2012, 04:43 AM   #16
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No i havent because ive conquered every caliber that i currently do exceot this .308.. i just cant seem to g

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Old November 25, 2012, 04:44 AM   #17
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Et ahold of this one!

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Old November 25, 2012, 04:47 AM   #18
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You know, it almost sounds like the die might be slightly buckling the shoulder--which is strange, if it is a full length sizer.

If you are crimping the loaded round, the application of the crimp can also buckle the shoulder.

The only rifle rounds I do crimp are .223 for my AR15's. It can and does send bullets right back into the cases, if I am loading the heavier bullets for that caliber. For the crimp, I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die, adjusted to just barely move the case mouth into a cannelure.
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Old November 25, 2012, 07:55 AM   #19
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Try resizing another piece of brass and don't prime it or seat a bullet, then see if it chambers. That will at least eliminate the bullet as a cause. I know they both fit fine in your go/no go guage, but it still sounds like a case issue. have you checked the size of the rim? Perhaps a thick rim could keep it from closing.
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Old November 25, 2012, 08:11 AM   #20
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take a sharpie or other black permanent marker and color the whole case black... them try to chamber the round a couple times... push it to where it binds, then bring it back... then repeat.

Then extract the case and see where the marker is rubbed off. That'll tell you where you're binding.

Color the bullet too.

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Old November 25, 2012, 09:16 AM   #21
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Ok-quick and silly test here. Loosen all action screws. Real lose.now try to chamber a round. The trigger gaurd you got?. How does it compare in thickness to the stock one. What is your case length?. Are the cases being reloaded ones that where shot in your rifle?. As one other posted,Take one of your cases that has been resized and try to chamber it with out bullet in it. SIlly as it seems,,If the primer is not seated deep enough this will also cause your bolt to not close.
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Old November 25, 2012, 09:48 AM   #22
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I had a similar problem once, bolt wasnt closing. try taking your finished round and drop it in your case gage. If you checking your brass with the case gage before you seat a round and it fits fine is good, but you should always check after you seat a bullet. My problem was I was bulging out the shoulder from too much crimp.
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Old November 25, 2012, 11:38 AM   #23
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Im still trying with no luck... been up all night trying to figure this thing out with no success at all!
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Old November 25, 2012, 11:58 AM   #24
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I built a tactical rifle on a Savage 10 action using a aftermarket barrel, trigger, and stock. I set my headspace carefully, loaded a few primed cases and test fired with the action out of the stock. All the primers went pop, bolt closure was normal and figured I was good to go. Took it to the range loaded my first round and it clicked but no bang. No mark at all on the primer. Tried a few more rounds with no luck. Talked to several club member one of whom is a pretty accomplished gunsmith and could come up with no reason why it should not fire.

Brought it home, tried a few primed cases with no bullet or powder with the gun in the stock no luck, took the action from the stock reset the headspace and all went pop. Put it back in the stock, no pop. I removed the front action screw and took .125 off it retightened it and the pop came back.

Told my gunsmith buddy and he just scratched his head, 1000 rounds later still don't know why that .125 inch on that screw kept the firing pin from hitting the primer.

file a 1/16 of a inch off the offending screw and see if that cures it is my advice
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Old November 25, 2012, 12:11 PM   #25
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I like the idea of taking apart the rifle from the stock but before I do that I can understand why it chambers factory ammo just fine. Thats why I dont wanna do that yet. Whatever is binding up i believe is on the press and resizing part if anything. If i take it apart, id lose whatever i currently have going on.

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