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Old February 15, 2014, 12:39 AM   #51
Metal god
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For any of you waiting for a update . My buddy did not want to take the rifle today so no update sorry . We went to an indoor range today becuase we both picked up new handguns today . We will most likely go shoot at the bigger range in the next couple weeks . I'll update then .

As for my Ruger SR45 . I liked it very much . I put 150rds through it today and it worked great with no issues . I can shoot it very accurately and it has very little recoil . I'd say My XD9 has more recoil then the SR45 . At this point I'm very happy with it .
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Last edited by Metal god; February 16, 2014 at 02:45 PM.
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Old February 15, 2014, 11:23 AM   #52
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Alan- I agree because I think there are several factors, for example you could have a very light trigger pull but excessive sear engagement so that the result was a creepy trigger even if the pull was light, or, a 4 1/2 lb pull with reasonable (not a hair trigger but reasonable) and then even if a little more pressure was required it still broke like glass. I think I'd be okay with 3 1/2 to 4 pounds but just under 8 lbs- I think it is sort of screwing up my shooting because it is heavier than my other rifles and I'm not used to it.
I am now sort of leaning towards the Timney but as I said, I'm just starting this project. Out of the box with 150 grains the 100 yard groups were SIX INCHES with SCOPE. I have on occasion shot 4" groups at 100 yards with my 44 Magnum S&W Model 29 using OPEN sights, my in-line muzzle loader is 1 1/2" groups at 100 so I'm sort of shocked at the Rem 700 "Known for its accuracy". I figure I'll do a pillar bed and work up reloads and drop the factory trigger to 4 lbs and if I start getting 1 to 1 1/2" groups- then spend the $ on a Timney.
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Old February 15, 2014, 01:56 PM   #53
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The Walker trigger remains one of the best ever designed, but they have three weaknesses:

1. If you adjust too much of the creep out of them, the gun will fire on slamming the bolt down.

2. A lot of guys used to clean guns with WD 40. The oil evaporates out over time, leaving the detergent behind to form a lovely "golden" glaze on parts. Sticky goo in its innards makes the Walker hiccup badly (including the safety-fire and bolt-slam fire).

3. The parts of the trigger, especially the sear, wear microscopically over time. Considering the age of a lot of the Remingtons, and the extensive use they've had, a trigger can wear to the point where the trigger and sear don't fully engage properly, and we're back to safety and bolt-slam fires.

The good news is that all three issues are easily addressed.

For issue 1 or 3, simply adjust the creep screw until the gun no longer bolt-slam fires.

For issue 2, disassemble and clean the trigger group with a GOOD gun oil. The new oil will dissolve away the detergent from the prior oils. Clean THOROUGHLY. Dismantling and rebuilding a Walker trigger is an almighty nuisance, but (to me) well worth the time and trouble.

But, hey, if you get a new after-market trigger, can I have the Walker? I own several and LOVE them!


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Old February 15, 2014, 02:47 PM   #54
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Actually this thread is kinda handy, because my son and I are reworkin his model 700 that I gave him five years ago. He brought it over today and while inspecting the action I first made sure it was clear..then attempted to dryfire to see what kind of poundage I was dealing with and with safety set to fire I couldnt makebit it fire... So that was one of the first parts off the rifle, and maybe a Timney is in order but first I will clean it and leave original settings as they came from factory as I know for sure no ones messed with it.... Might clean up nice and function..
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Old February 15, 2014, 08:29 PM   #55
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Here are some pics of the old trigger . The last one says it all

http://imageshack.com/a/img203/1673/bn4y.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img706/5161/j8pj.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img62/8427/4k30.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img89/617/8f75.jpg

WOW I need some new channel locks
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Last edited by Metal god; February 15, 2014 at 08:34 PM.
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Old February 15, 2014, 08:48 PM   #56
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Metalgod,

That one is bad. I've seen grimier.

I bought a Colt DA .45 Colt Service revolver off a guy about 7 years ago for 200 bucks. He sold it cheap because the thing was locked up tight, couldn't get the cylinder open, couldn't get the hammer back, nothing. The gun had all the ordnance markings and was in good shape.

I disassembled it to find it F U L L of detergent residue from cheap oil.

I soaked the parts in Kerosene overnight, scrubbed everything, re-oiled everything, and re-assembled the pistol. It worked flawlessly. I sold it a month later for 1200.00 and was cheap at that.

The lessons here are:

A. Use a good gun oil, not household oil.

B. Step one on any malfunctioning gun is dis-assembly and a thorough cleaning. That cures so many "mechanical" problems.




KR
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Old February 15, 2014, 10:51 PM   #57
alan
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Davem:

I will not dispute the points you made, sounds like you might know more about triggers than I do, however re that "almost 8# trigger", whomever it was that put that together should be drop-kicked into next year, well into next year. For the most part, I shot the rifles and loaded the ammunition, other peole provided such "medical attention" as was or might be needed by the things.
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Old February 16, 2014, 02:19 PM   #58
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I've been told other folks are experiencing the same overly heavy weight on the factory trigger.
I think if properly maintained and the safety fully engaged, etc, most of the worries disappear. Remington says to clean with Rem Oil then use compressed air to blow out any dirt and then there are 4 points for a drop of more Rem Oil- seems like a lot of oil. How do some of you clean the old type trigger?
As I understand the function when you push on the safety it pushes up the sear so there is adequate clearance if someone pulls the trigger and releases it, the connector should not snag on the sear as it returns to normal position- the safety pushes the sear up out of the way. So...there is nothing wrong with the safety.
it seems like there is a split decision on the Walker trigger, some people like it and find it works well. I'm sort of a neat freak as far as keeping things clean so that bodes well on the required maintenance.
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Old February 16, 2014, 05:00 PM   #59
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I got that old trigger cleaned up and reassembled. I used lighter fluid and scrubbed all parts clean, then after reassembly I lun
bricated the trigger mechanism thoroughly with lighter fluid and tested it. It came in at a 4lb average, breaks pretty decent, may leave it for now.
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Old February 16, 2014, 10:33 PM   #60
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Hooligan,

Just remember that if the trigger isn't breaking cleanly enough, you can tune the creep out of it. : )

I put a photo guide on here to tuning the T/C Venture trigger. it's gotten a lot of looks, but no responses or questions. I don't know if that's good or bad.

If you decide to tune the trigger, I'll do another photo guide (for the Walker trigger) and put it on here.

Glad it's doing better!


KR
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Old February 16, 2014, 11:41 PM   #61
Lucas McCain
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I had a rifle built for my grandson on a Remington 700 short action. This was one of the newer actions that had a 7# trigger. I sent the trigger off to Neil Jones and had it reworked and set to 3#. That trigger breaks like and old Jewell would now.
I am also quite familiar with the walker trigger problems of accidentally discharging when the safety is moved to the fire position to remove a round from the chamber. Not wanting this possibility, I had the Gentry conversion done. Gentry makes a new shroud and converts it to a Model 70 Winchester three position safety which enables you to mechanically block the firing pin when removing a live round from the chamber.
But I would like to add how I was taught 60 years ago about gun safety. I don't want to rely on the safety to work flawlessly. It's a mechanical device and it can experience a failure at any point in time. On this basis I don't carry a gun with a round in the chamber. You have plenty of time to put a round in the chamber when you are ready to shoot. If you don't have time to do it, then more than likely it isn't a good shot and it should not be taken.
My dad and uncle were guides and that was there rule. When hunting wether they were walking, riding horses, or driving a vehicle,they were in the front and they didn't want any one behind them with loaded guns and rely on a safety, think about it would you? A lot of unsafe things can happen if a hunter stumbles or falls There are times when you will get ready to shoot and decided not to. You now will want to remove the cartridge from the chamber, be sure you have the muzzle pointed in a safe direction before you change position on any safety, to remove the cartridge from the chamber.
Handling a gun safely is the first rule.
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Old February 17, 2014, 11:20 AM   #62
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Kentucky Rifleman- I've seen the stuff on the net as far as adjusting the screws, etc but if you have good photos and it isn't too much trouble. I'd like to see photos- I'm sure others would as well.
Lucas: My dad was about the smartest guy I ever knew and was qualitied as expert rifleman back during WWII and he always wanted me carrying a rifle with rounds in the magazne but not the chamber. I never lost a game animal because of it but some how, over the years, I started relying on the safety while walking around, etc. We got started on this whole safety business because of the connector on the Walker but when you think about the small engagement on the sear even with a Timney, or think of the sear engagement on many side by side shotguns, etc. It's a wake up call IMHO. I have therefore gone back to how I was taught my someone a lot smarter than myself. Carry with no round in the chamber, once your are in a tree stand, or start calling predators, or in a duck blind, etc- then chamber and put on the safety.
When you move, whether turkeys, predators, or walk out of the deer woods or leave the duck blind, unchamber with the muzzle in a safe direction. There is too much angst about not missing a game animal.
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Old February 17, 2014, 06:32 PM   #63
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Davem,

I'll put it together over the weekend.

KR
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