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May 1, 2002, 12:21 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: November 5, 2000
Posts: 22
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How does one repair stainless matte finish?
I have a couple of S&W pistols that have some "scuffing" or marring on the matte part of their finish. They're not scratched, just shiny spots on the matte areas from being shipped with loose mags.
Can this be easily repaired, or repaired at all? Thanks |
May 1, 2002, 01:18 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 4, 2001
Posts: 7,478
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A good method is to get some synthetic polishing/sanding pads at the hardware store. I also use the green pads from the grocery store. Using these you can restore the grain finish.
If using the green pads, rub gently since these are slightly too coarse. I usually use the brown pads from the sandpaper dept at Lowe's. Brownell's does/did sell a set of pads that matched Colt and S&W factory finishes. |
May 1, 2002, 10:29 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: November 5, 2000
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the tip Dfariswheel,
I actually have a couple types of those pads (coarse and fine) for wood finishing, I'll give the fine white pad a try. |
May 2, 2002, 09:27 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: October 5, 1999
Posts: 408
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Yes, they are called 3M ScotchBrite Pads and they are outstanding for finishing both wood and metal...
If you really look hard, you can get them in various grades- grey, green, brown, maroon are the most common 'grits'. White is more for cleaning the kitchen and probably won't bite stainless- Try the grey pad first. If you are brave, you can cut a couple of 1" square pieces and put them on a mandrel in a handpiece or Dremel run on low speed- you'll get a beautiful even matte finish in little time on stainless and chrome moly... Other than that, you're looking at a bead blast refinish. |
May 3, 2002, 10:59 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: November 5, 2000
Posts: 22
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Slicker 'n hog snot!
I tried the white and grey pads I had, with synthetic oil, works very well, but white was a bit too shiny. Then I went one better. I had some grey pads for a detail sander. I put a couple of drops on the surface to be cleaned and went to work. This is faster and makes it a little easier to leave no pattern trace, which had rubbing tends to do.
Thanks for the advice guys! |
May 8, 2002, 10:26 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,838
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For informational purposes...
S&W and Ruger both tumble finish their guns in huge tumblers that approach the size of a jacuzzi. Guns are placed into the vat and the guns are tumbled at a slow but constant rate. S&W allowed us to each take home a stone as a souvenir. I bought a S&W pin which I glued onto the stone.
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May 8, 2002, 11:08 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: October 14, 1999
Location: Gatorville, Florida
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Gary,
What kind and how big were the stones they used?
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May 9, 2002, 10:11 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: November 2, 1998
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The S&W stone I brought home is cylindrical. However, it has a 35 degree cut such that if set on its side, it would form a triangle. There are no sharp edges on the stone. The S&W pin is mounted on that cut and it makes a pretty display. Its base would be slightly over 1" and the angled cut is somewhat longer.
Regarding Ruger, I apologize but don't recall the stone size.
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May 9, 2002, 03:03 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: February 4, 2002
Location: Southern Indiana
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Solution
Dude go to www.brownells.com and look at blending cloths. There are different grits that you can use on a stainless gun to restore it. I also for a matte finish sand blast them of course after disassembling Good luck
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