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Old April 25, 2013, 06:58 PM   #1
jtmckinney
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Dan Wesson Re-assembly Question

Family member has a Dan Wesson 357 Mag revolver that needed help. Barrel was loose, cylinder gap was excessive. I took the barrel shroud and barrel off and everything seems to be fine. All the threads look and feel good.

I went to the "Dan Wesson Forum" and bought a "Barrel Nut Wrench" from EWK, it arrived today. I read the instructions given there and with the other homework I plan to finish cleaning, re-assemble and test in the next few days. I have feeler gages so setting the cylinder gap is no problem.

My question is; Should I use any grease or anti seize on the barrel threads?
The illistrations on the "Dan Wesson Forum" showed grease when it was assembled at the factory but did not mention any with the re-assembly they gave.

Anybody have a manual that came with these that might tell me.

Any help or actual experience appreciated.
James
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Old April 25, 2013, 10:52 PM   #2
James K
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I never used anything except a bit of oil. That barrel is not torqued down in a crush fit like a regular revolver or rifle barrel, it is just held between two points. Some grease at the rear might help to keep crud out of the threads, but that would be its only purpose.

Jim
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Old April 25, 2013, 11:24 PM   #3
OkieCruffler
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I never use anything on mine and have never had any issues.
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Old April 26, 2013, 04:28 AM   #4
hemiram
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I just wipe the threads with CLP or whatever to clean them, and wipe it off before I put it together. Don't get crazy with the wrench, you don't need to crank it all that hard. Snug is enough. I've owned at least 6 Model 15-2's and a 715, and a 44, and I have never seen a barrel come loose, ever. The so called "experts" will claim it happens a lot, but I think they are just "jiving", as I did an experiment once and even slightly snug (You can feel it as you tighten it)was enough to keep it tight even shooting full power .357 loads.
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Old April 26, 2013, 06:56 AM   #5
jtmckinney
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Thanks for the replies! My thinking was similar to whats already been said.

Looking forward to the testing part. Seems to have a real nice trigger feel both in single and double action mode. I may even try to trade for it. Owner said he really wants a semi, we'll see.

Once again Thanks!
James
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Old April 26, 2013, 07:06 AM   #6
wogpotter
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I'm the odd man out here, I admit it.

Having read several "my barrel/shroud is stuck & I've boogered up the muzzle nut" threads on the DW forum I now put a little neversieze on the threads as a prevenative. It hasn't caused any problems so far & its been several years.

To be fair I never had a problem before either, but I routinely do a complete strip down at least once a year, part of which is cleaning the threads everywhere with gun cleaner, & reapplying a little neversieze. Maybe I'm over doing it a bit.
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Old April 26, 2013, 07:29 AM   #7
g.willikers
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Excessive lube usually burns off or evaporates.
It can also interfere with tightening torques.
Anti seize is mostly used between dissimilar metals, or where corrosion is likely to occur.
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Old April 26, 2013, 11:15 AM   #8
James K
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Neverseize is good for rifle barrels and the like where the part is being torqued down and you want to be able to remove it if/when necessary. But the DW barrel is not cranked down that tight so I don't consider it needed in that situation. There is no harm in using it, just (IMHO) no need to.

Jim
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Old April 26, 2013, 02:36 PM   #9
SIGSHR
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Back in 1997 I bought some barrels from the resurrected Norwich company, they were a little too tight with my 1978 vintage Monson barrel lock nuts, a drop of oil took care of that.
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Old April 27, 2013, 12:59 AM   #10
DaleA
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Quote:
-I may even try to trade for it.
I would if I were you.

I've mentioned this before, with the crazy gun buying going on and folks wanting to get high capacity semi-auto guns a guy should be on the watch for the nice revolver that may occasionally show up at a good price-and in my book they don't come much nicer than the Dan Wesson revolvers.

IIRC it was said that the design of the design of the barrel/barrel shroud and the way you tightened it on the frame made for a very rigid setup that enhanced accuracy. And as you are already aware the 'excessive' cylinder gap was probably because the owner hadn't adjusted it right.
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Old April 27, 2013, 07:28 AM   #11
kahrguy
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I bought my first DW in '76 and only used a drop of breakfree clp on the treads and just a solid snug up to tight'n the barrel nut. Real shot the pistol a lot with some really heavy hot loads when younger and never had any issues with it. Check out EWKarms for any parts needed or upgrades wanted from spring to barrel combos or sights. LB customs for grips too. Found at danwessonforums. We use oil on engine bolts to torgue them to spec. Why not use it on a revolver .
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