The trigger on my SW442 is punishing my finger

chupps · May 2, 2016, 07:26 AM

When I shoot my S&W 442 the trigger snaps my finger forward against the trigger guard so hard that it chips and cracks my finger nail. I own a few guns and have never encountered this. Whats going on and is there a remedy other than taping my finger before I shoot this gun? Thanks

UncleEd · May 2, 2016, 08:11 AM

If the trigger return is snapping your fingernail against the forward part of the trigger guard, I suspect you're pulling the trigger with just the tip of your finger, which also makes it harder to pull the trigger.

Get the finger around the trigger to the first joint of the index finger or just a tad bit more. This will give you better leverage in handling the rather stiff double action trigger and your finger won't be popping forward, off the trigger as vigorously as it does now.

The pad of your finger is fine for pressing an automatic's trigger but not
a double action only revolver's.

BarryLee · May 2, 2016, 10:31 AM

I’ll freely admit that my S&W 442 isn’t my most pleasant gun to shoot, but I’ve never experienced what you described. I’d follow UncleEd’s advice and see if that helps. Also, consider having someone else shoot the gun and see if they have the same results.

2damnold4this · May 2, 2016, 10:42 AM

If the grips don't fit your hand, you may want to change them.

spelling edit

James K · May 2, 2016, 12:32 PM

IMHO, the best way to fire that gun is to replace those rubber grips with the old fashioned wood grips, put the hand all the way up into the space behind the trigger guard, and put the middle of the center pad of the index finger on the trigger. The idea that the trigger finger has to be parallel with the barrel is a notion carried over from auto pistols and really affords poor control of a revolver.

Jim

pilpens · May 2, 2016, 02:40 PM

put the trigger on the joint of the trigger finger; not the pad (like what UncleEd said).

dahermit · May 2, 2016, 05:20 PM

Have the factory springs (mainspring and rebound slide spring) been replaced (did you buy the gun new or used...someone might have lightened the rebound slide spring), with lighter springs? Sometimes when a very light rebound slide spring is used, the mainspring will cause the rebound slide to kick the trigger back as you describe.
Because you asked what is causing it, I assume that you want to attempt fixing it yourself instead of sending it to a gunsmith. If that is true, I also assume you have the requisite skill to remove the side plate without buggering-up the side plate screws. If you do not, take it to a gunsmith.
If you wish to observe the phenomenon yourself, remove the side plate and observe how the hammer kicks the rebound slide back as the gun cycles. A stronger rebound slide spring will likely fix the problem for you.

James K · May 2, 2016, 07:54 PM

"... how the hammer kicks the rebound slide back as the gun cycles. A stronger rebound slide spring will likely fix the problem for you."

I am not sure what you mean. When the gun fires, the rebound slide is well out of the way of the hammer; it rebounds the hammer when the trigger is released. A stronger rebound slide spring will only make the trigger pull harder since it is also the trigger spring.

Jim

dahermit · May 2, 2016, 09:50 PM

Quote:

"... how the hammer kicks the rebound slide back as the gun cycles. A stronger rebound slide spring will likely fix the problem for you."

I

Quote:

am not sure what you mean. When the gun fires, the rebound slide is well out of the way of the hammer; it rebounds the hammer when the trigger is released. A stronger rebound slide spring will only make the trigger pull harder since it is also the trigger spring.

If I remember correctly when I had that same issue, it had to do with the where the bottom of the hammer ends-up just in front of the little hump on the rebound slide that withdraws the firing pin (hammer nose if it has one), from the fired primer.

When you posted your comment above, I pulled the sideplate from one of my S&W's and tried to remember just how it worked. But, I am no longer sure just how it worked when the trigger kicked back after firing. But, I do remember that I found that swapping out my "ultra-light" (I was experimenting with just how light I could go), rebound slide with a slightly heavier one stopped the kick-back. I wish I could remember more about it, but too much water has evidently gone over the dam.

Someone posted awhile back about how the two springs (main and rebound), had to be "balanced", and I suspect they were referring to the current issue...I don't know, but could be. Maybe they will see these posts and chime-in here.

Deaf Smith · May 2, 2016, 09:58 PM

Quote:

The trigger on my SW442 is punishing my finger

Well you can always do a 'Fitz' Fitzgerald mod.

Of course that might not fly so well nowdays.

Deaf

Skeets · May 2, 2016, 10:31 PM

I've had this on Some J-Frames,but not so on my CT LCR+P,just say'in.

James K · May 3, 2016, 03:22 PM

We are getting off the OP's question. I think we need more info. I find it hard to imagine that a finger could be strong enough to pull that trigger (a 442 is a concealed hammer gun and can't be cocked for single action firing) but so weak that it would be pushed forward hard enough to contact the trigger guard.

Jim

Scooterloo · May 3, 2016, 03:50 PM

Have a Apex trigger kit installed and have the slide surfaces "stoned". I did it on mine and it is a completely different gun, much easier to shoot.

*****Use quality ammo with soft primers, I had some light primer strikes with cheap ammo.*****

Mr. Hill · May 3, 2016, 08:53 PM

Sounds like the gun is shifting in your hand when you fire it. Try larger a larger grip.

Sequins · May 4, 2016, 12:30 AM

I wouldn't necessarily consider a soft primer a desirable primer...

UncleEd · May 4, 2016, 05:39 AM

Decent responses but OP has yet to make any kind of reply.

Probably better to forget about the whole "problem."

FrankenMauser · May 4, 2016, 11:04 AM

Tighter grip with your non-trigger-fingers.

Stick your trigger finger through the trigger guard. (Pull the trigger with the first joint or second pad, rather than the tip of your finger).

Make sure you are gripping the revolver correctly:
Don't "choke up" on the grip.
Make sure the butt is well surrounded by your palm (not just resting against the metacarpal of your thumb).
And make sure your thumb is being used to grip the revolver, rather than hanging out in space or just idly pointing down the side of the revolver like some popular semi-auto style grip techniques where more control comes from the support hand than the grip hand.

(With long fingers, it can be difficult to find a good place to put your thumb that won't interfere with trigger pull and/or hit the cylinder release latch. ...But it's something people with long fingers have to figure out.)

James K · May 4, 2016, 01:04 PM

Some DA shooters will actually use the thumb to help control (stage) trigger pull with small revolvers. They pull through until the trigger finger contacts the tip of the thumb, then use that to control the final pull.

Jim

FrankenMauser · May 4, 2016, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Some DA shooters will actually use the thumb to help control (stage) trigger pull with small revolvers. They pull through until the trigger finger contacts the tip of the thumb, then use that to control the final pull.

That's how I ended up having to shoot my 642.

It took some learnin', but I eventually got to where I could stage by hitting my thumb (the three chambers that actually locked up before the hammer dropped, anyway...

). But it also took some training to maintain proper grip while simultaneously relaxing part of the thumb to let the trigger ease to the break.
And for rapid fire, I trained myself to slightly relax the tip of my finger while operating the trigger with the first joint/upper portion of the second pad. It was very unnatural, and probably a small part of my desire to move on to something else.

The J-frame just doesn't work well for my hands.
Ruger LCR... not a problem.
Ruger SP-101... not a problem.
S&W J-frames... no bueno.
But the Rugers have different geometry.

chupps · May 9, 2016, 07:55 AM

"Get the finger around the trigger to the first joint of the index finger or just a tad bit more. This will give you better leverage in handling the rather stiff double action trigger and your finger won't be popping forward, off the trigger as vigorously as it does now. "

I finally had a chance to shoot again. I took the advice above and problem solved. I was even a tad bit more accurate.

Thanks uncleEd

May 2, 2016, 07:26 AM	#1
chupps Senior Member Join Date: October 6, 2005 Posts: 368	The trigger on my SW442 is punishing my finger When I shoot my S&W 442 the trigger snaps my finger forward against the trigger guard so hard that it chips and cracks my finger nail. I own a few guns and have never encountered this. Whats going on and is there a remedy other than taping my finger before I shoot this gun? Thanks

May 2, 2016, 10:31 AM	#3
BarryLee Senior Member Join Date: July 29, 2010 Location: The ATL (OTP) Posts: 3,946	I’ll freely admit that my S&W 442 isn’t my most pleasant gun to shoot, but I’ve never experienced what you described. I’d follow UncleEd’s advice and see if that helps. Also, consider having someone else shoot the gun and see if they have the same results. __________________ A major source of objection to a free economy is precisely that it ... gives people what they want instead of what a particular group thinks they ought to want. Underlying most arguments against the free market is a lack of belief in freedom itself. - Milton Friedman

May 2, 2016, 10:42 AM	#4
2damnold4this Senior Member Join Date: August 12, 2009 Location: Athens, Georgia Posts: 2,526	If the grips don't fit your hand, you may want to change them. spelling edit Last edited by 2damnold4this; May 2, 2016 at 08:02 PM.

May 2, 2016, 05:20 PM	#7
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	Have the factory springs (mainspring and rebound slide spring) been replaced (did you buy the gun new or used...someone might have lightened the rebound slide spring), with lighter springs? Sometimes when a very light rebound slide spring is used, the mainspring will cause the rebound slide to kick the trigger back as you describe. Because you asked what is causing it, I assume that you want to attempt fixing it yourself instead of sending it to a gunsmith. If that is true, I also assume you have the requisite skill to remove the side plate without buggering-up the side plate screws. If you do not, take it to a gunsmith. If you wish to observe the phenomenon yourself, remove the side plate and observe how the hammer kicks the rebound slide back as the gun cycles. A stronger rebound slide spring will likely fix the problem for you. Last edited by dahermit; May 2, 2016 at 06:46 PM.

May 2, 2016, 10:31 PM	#11
Skeets Member in memoriam Join Date: April 6, 2015 Location: Indiana Posts: 583	Trigger Finger /Pinch? I've had this on Some J-Frames,but not so on my CT LCR+P,just say'in. __________________ Skeets "Over Kill Never Fails"

May 2, 2016, 08:11 AM	#2
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	If the trigger return is snapping your fingernail against the forward part of the trigger guard, I suspect you're pulling the trigger with just the tip of your finger, which also makes it harder to pull the trigger. Get the finger around the trigger to the first joint of the index finger or just a tad bit more. This will give you better leverage in handling the rather stiff double action trigger and your finger won't be popping forward, off the trigger as vigorously as it does now. The pad of your finger is fine for pressing an automatic's trigger but not a double action only revolver's.

May 2, 2016, 12:32 PM	#5
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	IMHO, the best way to fire that gun is to replace those rubber grips with the old fashioned wood grips, put the hand all the way up into the space behind the trigger guard, and put the middle of the center pad of the index finger on the trigger. The idea that the trigger finger has to be parallel with the barrel is a notion carried over from auto pistols and really affords poor control of a revolver. Jim

May 2, 2016, 02:40 PM	#6
pilpens Senior Member Join Date: April 24, 2008 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,696	put the trigger on the joint of the trigger finger; not the pad (like what UncleEd said).

May 2, 2016, 07:54 PM	#8
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	"... how the hammer kicks the rebound slide back as the gun cycles. A stronger rebound slide spring will likely fix the problem for you." I am not sure what you mean. When the gun fires, the rebound slide is well out of the way of the hammer; it rebounds the hammer when the trigger is released. A stronger rebound slide spring will only make the trigger pull harder since it is also the trigger spring. Jim

May 3, 2016, 03:22 PM	#12
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	We are getting off the OP's question. I think we need more info. I find it hard to imagine that a finger could be strong enough to pull that trigger (a 442 is a concealed hammer gun and can't be cocked for single action firing) but so weak that it would be pushed forward hard enough to contact the trigger guard. Jim

May 3, 2016, 03:50 PM	#13
Scooterloo Junior Member Join Date: October 22, 2004 Posts: 2	Have a Apex trigger kit installed and have the slide surfaces "stoned". I did it on mine and it is a completely different gun, much easier to shoot. ***Use quality ammo with soft primers, I had some light primer strikes with cheap ammo.***

May 3, 2016, 08:53 PM	#14
Mr. Hill Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2015 Posts: 384	Sounds like the gun is shifting in your hand when you fire it. Try larger a larger grip.

May 4, 2016, 12:30 AM	#15
Sequins Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2014 Posts: 394	I wouldn't necessarily consider a soft primer a desirable primer...

May 4, 2016, 05:39 AM	#16
UncleEd Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2013 Location: N. Georgia Posts: 1,150	Decent responses but OP has yet to make any kind of reply. Probably better to forget about the whole "problem."

May 4, 2016, 11:04 AM	#17
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Tighter grip with your non-trigger-fingers. Stick your trigger finger through the trigger guard. (Pull the trigger with the first joint or second pad, rather than the tip of your finger). Make sure you are gripping the revolver correctly: Don't "choke up" on the grip. Make sure the butt is well surrounded by your palm (not just resting against the metacarpal of your thumb). And make sure your thumb is being used to grip the revolver, rather than hanging out in space or just idly pointing down the side of the revolver like some popular semi-auto style grip techniques where more control comes from the support hand than the grip hand. (With long fingers, it can be difficult to find a good place to put your thumb that won't interfere with trigger pull and/or hit the cylinder release latch. ...But it's something people with long fingers have to figure out.) __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

May 4, 2016, 01:04 PM	#18
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Some DA shooters will actually use the thumb to help control (stage) trigger pull with small revolvers. They pull through until the trigger finger contacts the tip of the thumb, then use that to control the final pull. Jim

May 9, 2016, 07:55 AM	#20
chupps Senior Member Join Date: October 6, 2005 Posts: 368	"Get the finger around the trigger to the first joint of the index finger or just a tad bit more. This will give you better leverage in handling the rather stiff double action trigger and your finger won't be popping forward, off the trigger as vigorously as it does now. " I finally had a chance to shoot again. I took the advice above and problem solved. I was even a tad bit more accurate. Thanks uncleEd