870 Express rust removal..

.300 Weatherby Mag · August 25, 2010, 09:49 PM

I have an 870 express that was my grandpa's.. Apparently he won it at DU dinner and just stuck it in his safe... Where the hang tag string rested on the rib/barrel there's some light surface rust (I hate salt air).. There are also some issues with the coating on the reciever under the spot where the auction item number tag was taped on... How can I get the rust off without hurting the surrounding surface coating on the barrel and reciever??

Dave McC · August 25, 2010, 10:06 PM

Scotchbrite pad and oil. GO slowly, then lube copiously.....

ET. · August 25, 2010, 10:34 PM

Man, this reminds me of school... He stole my answer!

Bill DeShivs · August 26, 2010, 02:13 AM

DON'T use a scotchbrite pad!
It will remove the bluing. Where do you guys get this stuff?
Use 0000 steel wool (Walmart). It will remove the rust. Then spray WD 40 on the gun and wipe it dry. If all the rust is gone, oil the gun.

jaguarxk120 · August 26, 2010, 07:41 AM

Use the steel wool and a light oil!! Scotchbright is just like taking sandpaper to the metal. Use it on the bottom of a cooking pot and see how the metal is brighter and full of very fine scratches. The scotchbright is great stuff for different things, not for gun work unless you plan on rebluing the gun.

dullone · August 26, 2010, 08:15 AM

I'd substitute brass wool for the steel wool.

zippy13 · August 26, 2010, 02:32 PM

>I'd substitute brass wool for the steel wool.

Good call, dullone.
I use Scotch bright to duplicate the factory look on some stainless steel gun finishes. No matter what you decide, follow Dave's recommendation to go slowly.

BigJimP · August 26, 2010, 02:59 PM

Going easy is always good advice like others advised ....

try some Rust Free ...(and a cleaning patch first ) ...and only resort to the green scrubbie if you have to .../ and then coat it with T-9 BoShield ...

They're both very good products / with marine air around ....

and warm up the air in the safe ( with a low wattage light bulb / or a golden rod ) so the air holds more moisture and it doesn't condense on the guns in the safe as easily.

http://www.boeshield.com/

.300 Weatherby Mag · August 26, 2010, 09:00 PM

Thanks for all of the advice... I live quite a ways from the ocean... Grandpa lives about 100 yards from it... I don't have a problem with salt air... Here its humidity...

BigJimP · August 27, 2010, 11:16 AM

High humidity is always a major issue ....and not easy to deal with sometimes.

Sometimes the location of your safe can help ---- if it sets on an outside wall, maybe move it to an "inside wall" .../ if you can move it to a heated / air conditioned portion of the house vs a garage or shop ..it would help also.

But sometimes - you just have to remind yourself --- to go in there with BoShield or something and spray and wipe them down once every 2 weeks ...( I also Like Rig Oil - but I'm having trouble finding it for the last year or so / since they were bought out by another company ).

TexasFats · August 27, 2010, 12:26 PM

I used 0000 steel wool and oil on a Remington Model 11 and a Walther PP that had some surface rust with no damage to the bluing beyond that caused by the rust itself. The key is using the very fine (0000) steel wool and oil to lubricate it so that it slides over good metal and only catches rust with the steel fibers. Just be careful and watch what you are doing. Also, you may have to use a brass brush with very fine bristles on nooks and crannies that the steel wool can't get into.

Scotchbrite essentially is sandpaper, since it has a pretty hard abrasive on it.

.300 Weatherby Mag · August 27, 2010, 05:47 PM

Humidity sucks... But salt is king... Anyone hunt around Salt Cedars??

August 25, 2010, 09:49 PM	#1
.300 Weatherby Mag Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2008 Posts: 1,777	870 Express rust removal.. I have an 870 express that was my grandpa's.. Apparently he won it at DU dinner and just stuck it in his safe... Where the hang tag string rested on the rib/barrel there's some light surface rust (I hate salt air).. There are also some issues with the coating on the reciever under the spot where the auction item number tag was taped on... How can I get the rust off without hurting the surrounding surface coating on the barrel and reciever?? Last edited by .300 Weatherby Mag; August 25, 2010 at 09:54 PM.

August 25, 2010, 10:34 PM	#3
ET. Senior Member Join Date: June 8, 2010 Location: Savannah, Ga. Posts: 638	Man, this reminds me of school... He stole my answer! __________________ Soldiers are dying every day to protect our freedoms. The least we can do is vote.

August 26, 2010, 02:13 AM	#4
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,981	DON'T use a scotchbrite pad! It will remove the bluing. Where do you guys get this stuff? Use 0000 steel wool (Walmart). It will remove the rust. Then spray WD 40 on the gun and wipe it dry. If all the rust is gone, oil the gun. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

August 26, 2010, 09:00 PM	#9
.300 Weatherby Mag Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2008 Posts: 1,777	Thanks for all of the advice... I live quite a ways from the ocean... Grandpa lives about 100 yards from it... I don't have a problem with salt air... Here its humidity... Last edited by .300 Weatherby Mag; August 27, 2010 at 08:42 AM.

August 27, 2010, 12:26 PM	#11
TexasFats Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 130	I used 0000 steel wool and oil on a Remington Model 11 and a Walther PP that had some surface rust with no damage to the bluing beyond that caused by the rust itself. The key is using the very fine (0000) steel wool and oil to lubricate it so that it slides over good metal and only catches rust with the steel fibers. Just be careful and watch what you are doing. Also, you may have to use a brass brush with very fine bristles on nooks and crannies that the steel wool can't get into. Scotchbrite essentially is sandpaper, since it has a pretty hard abrasive on it. __________________ Gun laws are designed to extend and solidify the power of an elite over a peasantry. Sauron lives, and his orc minions are on the march.

August 25, 2010, 10:06 PM	#2
Dave McC Staff In Memoriam Join Date: October 13, 1999 Location: Columbia, Md, USA Posts: 8,811	Scotchbrite pad and oil. GO slowly, then lube copiously.....

August 26, 2010, 07:41 AM	#5
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,619	Use the steel wool and a light oil!! Scotchbright is just like taking sandpaper to the metal. Use it on the bottom of a cooking pot and see how the metal is brighter and full of very fine scratches. The scotchbright is great stuff for different things, not for gun work unless you plan on rebluing the gun.

August 26, 2010, 08:15 AM	#6
dullone Member Join Date: February 19, 2005 Location: AZ Central Highlands Posts: 32	I'd substitute brass wool for the steel wool.

August 26, 2010, 02:32 PM	#7
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	>I'd substitute brass wool for the steel wool. Good call, dullone. I use Scotch bright to duplicate the factory look on some stainless steel gun finishes. No matter what you decide, follow Dave's recommendation to go slowly.

August 26, 2010, 02:59 PM	#8
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	Going easy is always good advice like others advised .... try some Rust Free ...(and a cleaning patch first ) ...and only resort to the green scrubbie if you have to .../ and then coat it with T-9 BoShield ... They're both very good products / with marine air around .... and warm up the air in the safe ( with a low wattage light bulb / or a golden rod ) so the air holds more moisture and it doesn't condense on the guns in the safe as easily. http://www.boeshield.com/

August 27, 2010, 11:16 AM	#10
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	High humidity is always a major issue ....and not easy to deal with sometimes. Sometimes the location of your safe can help ---- if it sets on an outside wall, maybe move it to an "inside wall" .../ if you can move it to a heated / air conditioned portion of the house vs a garage or shop ..it would help also. But sometimes - you just have to remind yourself --- to go in there with BoShield or something and spray and wipe them down once every 2 weeks ...( I also Like Rig Oil - but I'm having trouble finding it for the last year or so / since they were bought out by another company ).

August 27, 2010, 05:47 PM	#12
.300 Weatherby Mag Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2008 Posts: 1,777	Humidity sucks... But salt is king... Anyone hunt around Salt Cedars??