Ar 15 Problems

montgomery.jace · November 20, 2011, 05:02 PM

Hey guys, Im new to this forum and i have been having problems with my AR 15 and looking for some advice. I would not call myself an expert but i would also not say im a noob either. Anyway, to the issue at hand. I bought an AR 15 at a gun show a couple of months ago. The maker of the lower is Tactical Machining Inc. not to sure about the upper. I was skeptical at first about buying a "no name" AR 15 but it was a good price and the stats on the rifle said that everything was mil-spec. So anyway i bought the rifle and have been having problems with it quite often. Mostly with ftf and fte. I attribute the problems to the rifle being "cheap" and have been thinking about upgrading some of the parts (bolt carrier group in paticular) to make it a more reliable rifle. I have field stripped the rifle, cleaned it, lubed it, made sure the gas rings were oriented correctly. And still having problems. It does ok if i dont try to put too many rounds through it too quickly. I can rarely go through a magazine dump without a jam. I have used a couple of different kinds of ammunition (nothing really cheap, american eagle mostly) and use magpul p-mags. I am very unhappy with the rifle and would like to be able to go to the range just one day without a malfunction. Would an upgraded bolt carrier (colt, fail-zero, bushmaster, etc..) make it a more reliable platform?Any tips or advice would be really helpfull. Thanks.

Catrucker · November 20, 2011, 06:53 PM

Have you thoroughly cleaned the bolt carrier? If it is too heavily lubed it will be sticky and could cause those problems.
Tons of AR info here; http://www.ar15.com/ you should be able to search your problem, and find answers.

rjrivero · November 20, 2011, 07:05 PM

Welcome to the forum.

First, you have to determine what kind of malfunction you're having before you try to figure out what you need to do to fix it.

When I have a new assembly, I will scrub out the chamber VERY WELL with a chamber brush, and then take it out to the range with a few boxes of GOOD ammo.

I load a single round into a magazine, then load it into the rifle. I then pull the charge handle, and let it fly. I fire the one shot and make sure the bolt locks open, round ejects, and all is good.

Then I'll load 3 rounds in a magazine load the magazine, and then let the bolt close by pushing the bolt release lever. I fire the three rounds and make sure that there are no malfunctions. If the bolt locks open after the last round, then it's a pretty good bet it's good to go. If I get a malfunction of any kind, I take note of it, and then repeat the test with A DIFFERENT MAGAZINE.

I'll load a full magazine and put it in the rifle. I'll push the bolt relase and fire the first three rounds out of that magazine, drop the magazine, and manually eject the fourth.

This pretty much tells me this gun will cycle with a full mag, an empty mag, and locks back as it should.

So back to your original question: Intermittent issues with your new AR

1) Did you scrub the chamber with a proper .223 chamber brush?
2) Are you using good quality (BRASS CASED) ammo?
3) Can you describe exactly what the failure is that you're having? FTE and FTF are different issues with different causes and different fixes.

Is the brass from the spent round completely ejected or does it get caught up in the bolt/magazine/fresh round?

We can help, but we need to know exactly what circumstances you are experiencing failures under.

Technosavant · November 20, 2011, 08:02 PM

It seems to me that the major elements of AR-15 reliability center on three parts(in no real order):
1) barrel, primarily the chamber
2) magazine
3) bolt carrier group

If the chamber isn't in good shape (poorly finished or just gunked up), it won't feed or extract well. If the mags are junk (bad springs, bent feed lips), it won't feed well. If the extractor on the bolt is weak, it won't extract well. If the gas key is loose (poorly staked screws), you'll also have cycling problems.

rjrivero has good advice to get you going. With some more info, we can help nail down your issue a bit more effectively. I'd be hesitant to just throw parts at it for now... sure, you might fix it, but you also might spend $150 or so to no effect.

HiBC · November 21, 2011, 04:47 AM

I'm not familiar with the mfg you name,but I just would not get too excited about the name thing.

What ammo are you using?(laquered steel?)Try some current brass ball ammo of US mfg.

Different strokes for different folks,but I think concensus is a little wet with CLP is an OK lube status.

You mentioned the P-mags.They are popular,and,so far,the ones I have work great.However,it is also true that the material thickness of the plastic lips is thicker.This means the round actually strips and feeds from a slightly lower position.In your rifle,it could make a difference.I notice the Midway Back Friday e-mail ad has 20 rd "C"products mags for $8 or so.They are thin stainless .Try one or two.

Then look at your malfunctions .Look close,like a detective or a tracker.

If you identify some reason why a part or assy is not working,sure,replace it.But,just buying a BCG won't help if your BCG does not have some problem.

FTF and FTE may indicate it is time to get a Sinclair bolt disassy tool,a small punch,and a bolt spare parts kit,or reliability kit.Strip your bolt,make sure the ejector hole is clean .
That may help.Good luck

montgomery.jace · November 21, 2011, 03:29 PM

Hey i just wanted to say thanks for the quick reply. That is all really good info and i will take apart the rifle tonight and clean it very well. I may have been putting too much lube on the BCG. Once i get the rifle cleaned and get to the range for some troubleshooting, I will let yall know what happens. Thank you again for the quick replies.

Catrucker · November 21, 2011, 05:31 PM

These two threads should help;
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/548...BE_POINTS.html
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/456...ive_pics_.html

hodaka · November 21, 2011, 05:40 PM

Is your gas block pinned or held in place by Allen screws? I have had problems due to gas leaks at the block.

1911rocks · November 24, 2011, 07:47 AM

There are a few pneumatic tests that can help verify unobstructed and clear gas path. Furthermore, I'd inspect the aft edges of the bolt locking surfaces. If there is insufficient gas impulse to fully unlock the bolt there will be signs of battering at the aft edge of the bolt locking surfaces. You need this resolved before throwing more money and parts at it. Think of how it wouold suck to put an ARGold trigger ($279.00 but superb) and a NP3 coated bolt carrier onlt to find out it still does the same thing.

plumbercrack · November 24, 2011, 12:32 PM

I had a similar problem with an American Spirit Arms AR. This was a $1300.00 rifle and as some others have said it was a mag problem along with ammo. Mine was 7.62x39 and had problems until I found the right ammo. Strangely enough it only liked some "factory reloads" I bought at a gun show and some surplus brass stuff with Russian writing on it. After you give it a good scrubbing put a thin, and I mean real thin, coating of white lithium grease on your moving parts. It seems to build up less carbon and prevent fouling problems.

Happy Thanksgiving

HiBC · December 2, 2011, 02:23 PM

plummercrack:

Consider that,had the AR platform been designed around the more tapered 7.62x39 case,the AR platform would likely be a slightly different geometry.Its set up to feed 5.56.
Making the AR work with the 7.62x39 is a slight tweak,and so the window of what works may be a little smaller.

plumbercrack · December 2, 2011, 03:15 PM

HiBC,
The upper was designed for 7.62X39 and the only common part after that is the lower assembly. Like I said the right ammo and magazine solved the problem. Maybe it was firing about 500 rounds through it that loosened it up too. I saw a guy at the range with a .308 upper and he was having similar problems. Thats one thing about my old Yugo SKS, it was new when I got it and has almost no problems in 9 years.

HiBC · December 4, 2011, 02:06 AM

The upper reciever is identical,and so is the bcg.

The issue is in the lower,in how the mag well was designed around straight 20 rd mags rather than the radically curved mags that serve the 7.62x39 round well.Even the fixed 10 rd box on an SKS incorporates this curve.As the 7.62x39 is stripped from the mag lips and heads for the feed ramp,it was designed for a different rifle.Subtle little angle things are different.

Not saying the 7.62x39 won't work.It has a greater window of reliability in rifles designed for it.

No disrespect to you, your rifle or your experience.If the rifle shoots,it shoots.

plumbercrack · December 4, 2011, 08:43 PM

Actually I don't even know what brand the mags are as they were bought at a show. The bend though is further down than most. The mag that came with it is as you described.

November 20, 2011, 05:02 PM	#1
montgomery.jace Junior Member Join Date: November 20, 2011 Posts: 2	Ar 15 Problems Hey guys, Im new to this forum and i have been having problems with my AR 15 and looking for some advice. I would not call myself an expert but i would also not say im a noob either. Anyway, to the issue at hand. I bought an AR 15 at a gun show a couple of months ago. The maker of the lower is Tactical Machining Inc. not to sure about the upper. I was skeptical at first about buying a "no name" AR 15 but it was a good price and the stats on the rifle said that everything was mil-spec. So anyway i bought the rifle and have been having problems with it quite often. Mostly with ftf and fte. I attribute the problems to the rifle being "cheap" and have been thinking about upgrading some of the parts (bolt carrier group in paticular) to make it a more reliable rifle. I have field stripped the rifle, cleaned it, lubed it, made sure the gas rings were oriented correctly. And still having problems. It does ok if i dont try to put too many rounds through it too quickly. I can rarely go through a magazine dump without a jam. I have used a couple of different kinds of ammunition (nothing really cheap, american eagle mostly) and use magpul p-mags. I am very unhappy with the rifle and would like to be able to go to the range just one day without a malfunction. Would an upgraded bolt carrier (colt, fail-zero, bushmaster, etc..) make it a more reliable platform?Any tips or advice would be really helpfull. Thanks.

November 24, 2011, 07:47 AM	#9
1911rocks Senior Member Join Date: September 9, 2006 Posts: 424	I'm with Hodaka There are a few pneumatic tests that can help verify unobstructed and clear gas path. Furthermore, I'd inspect the aft edges of the bolt locking surfaces. If there is insufficient gas impulse to fully unlock the bolt there will be signs of battering at the aft edge of the bolt locking surfaces. You need this resolved before throwing more money and parts at it. Think of how it wouold suck to put an ARGold trigger ($279.00 but superb) and a NP3 coated bolt carrier onlt to find out it still does the same thing.

December 2, 2011, 03:15 PM	#12
plumbercrack Member Join Date: October 21, 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 98	AR Problems HiBC, The upper was designed for 7.62X39 and the only common part after that is the lower assembly. Like I said the right ammo and magazine solved the problem. Maybe it was firing about 500 rounds through it that loosened it up too. I saw a guy at the range with a .308 upper and he was having similar problems. Thats one thing about my old Yugo SKS, it was new when I got it and has almost no problems in 9 years.

November 20, 2011, 06:53 PM	#2
Catrucker Junior Member Join Date: November 17, 2011 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 9	Have you thoroughly cleaned the bolt carrier? If it is too heavily lubed it will be sticky and could cause those problems. Tons of AR info here; http://www.ar15.com/ you should be able to search your problem, and find answers.

November 20, 2011, 07:05 PM	#3
rjrivero Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2008 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 1,399	Welcome to the forum. First, you have to determine what kind of malfunction you're having before you try to figure out what you need to do to fix it. When I have a new assembly, I will scrub out the chamber VERY WELL with a chamber brush, and then take it out to the range with a few boxes of GOOD ammo. I load a single round into a magazine, then load it into the rifle. I then pull the charge handle, and let it fly. I fire the one shot and make sure the bolt locks open, round ejects, and all is good. Then I'll load 3 rounds in a magazine load the magazine, and then let the bolt close by pushing the bolt release lever. I fire the three rounds and make sure that there are no malfunctions. If the bolt locks open after the last round, then it's a pretty good bet it's good to go. If I get a malfunction of any kind, I take note of it, and then repeat the test with A DIFFERENT MAGAZINE. I'll load a full magazine and put it in the rifle. I'll push the bolt relase and fire the first three rounds out of that magazine, drop the magazine, and manually eject the fourth. This pretty much tells me this gun will cycle with a full mag, an empty mag, and locks back as it should. So back to your original question: Intermittent issues with your new AR 1) Did you scrub the chamber with a proper .223 chamber brush? 2) Are you using good quality (BRASS CASED) ammo? 3) Can you describe exactly what the failure is that you're having? FTE and FTF are different issues with different causes and different fixes. Is the brass from the spent round completely ejected or does it get caught up in the bolt/magazine/fresh round? We can help, but we need to know exactly what circumstances you are experiencing failures under.

November 20, 2011, 08:02 PM	#4
Technosavant Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2007 Location: St. Louis, MO area Posts: 4,040	It seems to me that the major elements of AR-15 reliability center on three parts(in no real order): 1) barrel, primarily the chamber 2) magazine 3) bolt carrier group If the chamber isn't in good shape (poorly finished or just gunked up), it won't feed or extract well. If the mags are junk (bad springs, bent feed lips), it won't feed well. If the extractor on the bolt is weak, it won't extract well. If the gas key is loose (poorly staked screws), you'll also have cycling problems. rjrivero has good advice to get you going. With some more info, we can help nail down your issue a bit more effectively. I'd be hesitant to just throw parts at it for now... sure, you might fix it, but you also might spend $150 or so to no effect.

November 21, 2011, 04:47 AM	#5
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,287	I'm not familiar with the mfg you name,but I just would not get too excited about the name thing. What ammo are you using?(laquered steel?)Try some current brass ball ammo of US mfg. Different strokes for different folks,but I think concensus is a little wet with CLP is an OK lube status. You mentioned the P-mags.They are popular,and,so far,the ones I have work great.However,it is also true that the material thickness of the plastic lips is thicker.This means the round actually strips and feeds from a slightly lower position.In your rifle,it could make a difference.I notice the Midway Back Friday e-mail ad has 20 rd "C"products mags for $8 or so.They are thin stainless .Try one or two. Then look at your malfunctions .Look close,like a detective or a tracker. If you identify some reason why a part or assy is not working,sure,replace it.But,just buying a BCG won't help if your BCG does not have some problem. FTF and FTE may indicate it is time to get a Sinclair bolt disassy tool,a small punch,and a bolt spare parts kit,or reliability kit.Strip your bolt,make sure the ejector hole is clean . That may help.Good luck

November 21, 2011, 03:29 PM	#6
montgomery.jace Junior Member Join Date: November 20, 2011 Posts: 2	Hey i just wanted to say thanks for the quick reply. That is all really good info and i will take apart the rifle tonight and clean it very well. I may have been putting too much lube on the BCG. Once i get the rifle cleaned and get to the range for some troubleshooting, I will let yall know what happens. Thank you again for the quick replies.

November 21, 2011, 05:31 PM	#7
Catrucker Junior Member Join Date: November 17, 2011 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 9	These two threads should help; http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/548...BE_POINTS.html http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/456...ive_pics_.html

November 21, 2011, 05:40 PM	#8
hodaka Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2006 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,010	Is your gas block pinned or held in place by Allen screws? I have had problems due to gas leaks at the block.

November 24, 2011, 12:32 PM	#10
plumbercrack Member Join Date: October 21, 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 98	I had a similar problem with an American Spirit Arms AR. This was a $1300.00 rifle and as some others have said it was a mag problem along with ammo. Mine was 7.62x39 and had problems until I found the right ammo. Strangely enough it only liked some "factory reloads" I bought at a gun show and some surplus brass stuff with Russian writing on it. After you give it a good scrubbing put a thin, and I mean real thin, coating of white lithium grease on your moving parts. It seems to build up less carbon and prevent fouling problems. Happy Thanksgiving

December 2, 2011, 02:23 PM	#11
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,287	plummercrack: Consider that,had the AR platform been designed around the more tapered 7.62x39 case,the AR platform would likely be a slightly different geometry.Its set up to feed 5.56. Making the AR work with the 7.62x39 is a slight tweak,and so the window of what works may be a little smaller.

December 4, 2011, 02:06 AM	#13
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,287	The upper reciever is identical,and so is the bcg. The issue is in the lower,in how the mag well was designed around straight 20 rd mags rather than the radically curved mags that serve the 7.62x39 round well.Even the fixed 10 rd box on an SKS incorporates this curve.As the 7.62x39 is stripped from the mag lips and heads for the feed ramp,it was designed for a different rifle.Subtle little angle things are different. Not saying the 7.62x39 won't work.It has a greater window of reliability in rifles designed for it. No disrespect to you, your rifle or your experience.If the rifle shoots,it shoots.

December 4, 2011, 08:43 PM	#14
plumbercrack Member Join Date: October 21, 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 98	Actually I don't even know what brand the mags are as they were bought at a show. The bend though is further down than most. The mag that came with it is as you described.