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Old August 12, 2012, 07:41 PM   #1
jwrowland77
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9mm Load for Steel Challenge

I shot in a Steel Challenge this weekend and was not happy with the results of my reload. I am looking to see which of the following powders would be the best to use.

From the following powders, which would be the best to use for a load for Steel Challenge? Looking for something light on recoil and accurate. I have these powders on hand: Unique, Titegroup and Autocomp. I will be using a 115gr bullet.

Any and all replies are much appreciated.
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Old August 12, 2012, 09:00 PM   #2
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What was wrong with the load you were using?

All a bullet has to do is ring the steel to matter. I'd take your fastest burning powder, Titegroup, start at 90% and work it down until you are at the minimum power level that will cycle your gun. Unique will do the job too but it will be dirty. I've got no experience with Autocomp.

If you are using a powder thrower that will matter also because you don't want such a small amount that it won't consistently meter. Another reason to avoid Unique.
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Old August 12, 2012, 09:11 PM   #3
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Well I'm using 5.9 of Unique. I was looking for something that doesn't recoil so much, that way I can get back on target faster. I didn't know if I went with a faster burning powder if it would help with that. I know I could go down to 5.0 and it would still cycle my gun. Just kind of wanting something with less recoil to move to targets quicker.
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Old August 12, 2012, 09:54 PM   #4
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I have a light recoil load using Montana Gold 115 gr. JHP bullets. I use AA2 a fast burning powder. It works best with compact pistols but it does cycle even my P226 consistently.

AA2 4.4 grains
MG 115 grain JHP
OAL 1.080 to 1.085"

Dropping to 4.2 grains of powder will only work with a very solid grip. You really should not try this below 4.3 grains of powder if you want your pistol to cycle.

At this level it doesn't burn as clean as I would like but it isn't too bad.
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Old August 13, 2012, 12:06 PM   #5
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using those 3 powders....just find the recipe with the slowest velocity at the least pressure...and that's your answer on reducing the recoil for a bullet at that specific weight / or add weight to your gun, if that's an option.

Some combination of all of those factors - will give you what you want / but I'm not going to ever tell you to go below the published minimum in the recipes ( not worth the risk, in my view ).

You might even consider changing bullets ...to a 125 gr...they seem a little less "snappy" to me in 9mm ...although I shoot a lot of 115 gr Montana Gold ...I don't want them too hot either.
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Old August 13, 2012, 01:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
AA2 4.4 grains
MG 115 grain JHP
OAL 1.080 to 1.085"

Dropping to 4.2 grains of powder will only work with a very solid grip. You really should not try this below 4.3 grains of powder if you want your pistol to cycle.
I've reloaded and shot well over 1,000 rounds of 9mm using 4.1 grains of AA#2 pushing 115 gr. plated bullets (Berry's). They've worked fine in both my Ruger P95 and my Hi-Point carbine.
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Old August 13, 2012, 01:12 PM   #7
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Well I've always shot a 115gr but have been playing with the idea of stepping up to 124 jacketed. First because I've never shot anything other than 115 and second since I reload now it's all about experimenting with components.
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Old August 13, 2012, 01:29 PM   #8
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Sure - makes sense ....and we all experiment to some point / but for the most part, once I settle on a cartridge for 9mm....I just order bullets in case lots ...and keep everything the same.

You'll find something you like for 115 gr bullets....for what its worth / I've been using a lot of Hodgdon Universal lately as a powder. Its a powder that is easy for me to get in 8 lb kegs ...and its a little slower in velocity than some of the options I looked at / and it meters well in my Dillon press.
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Old August 13, 2012, 01:34 PM   #9
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Yeah I have used a lot of Unique as I am a fairly new Reloader and you really can't double charge or no charge Unique. I've only been rolling my own since March of this year. I have done a work up of Titegroup but have been unsure of best application. I think this might be a great application with the Steel Challenge. I haven't even opened the bottle of Autocomp yet, which I may do this week just to see what it can do.
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Old August 13, 2012, 05:36 PM   #10
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TiteGroup is a very good powder....but Min and Max are pretty close together so it requires you to be very careful. It would be very easy to double charge a case with TiteGroup in most any caliber ---even 9mm probably ...its a low volume powder / drops very consistently - burns clean..

Availability is the issue in my area on TiteGroup ....where I can pick up an 8lb keg of Universal from several places ( because a lot of us, use Universal in 20ga and 28ga shotshells as well ) ...at least up here.
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Old August 13, 2012, 07:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Quote:
AA2 4.4 grains
MG 115 grain JHP
OAL 1.080 to 1.085"

Dropping to 4.2 grains of powder will only work with a very solid grip. You really should not try this below 4.3 grains of powder if you want your pistol to cycle.
I've reloaded and shot well over 1,000 rounds of 9mm using 4.1 grains of AA#2 pushing 115 gr. plated bullets (Berry's). They've worked fine in both my Ruger P95 and my Hi-Point carbine.
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Fully jacketed hollow point bullets do need a bit more powder then you would use for plated or lead bullets. Different bullet needs a different load. I do prefer a 124 grain FMJ with AA5 for range use. There is more recoil but it seems to run pretty clean.
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Old August 15, 2012, 08:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
TiteGroup is a very good powder....but Min and Max are pretty close together so it requires you to be very careful. It would be very easy to double charge a case with TiteGroup in most any caliber ---even 9mm probably ...its a low volume powder / drops very consistently - burns clean..
For 9 mm swing is .4 grains for Titegroup. I use a 115 grain lead bullet and a charge of 4 grains. I have purposely double charged a 9 mm case and it would definitely be a compressed load. I purposely double charge every caliber I load so I can see what it looks like in the case. Titegroup in 9 mm looks scary for a charge.

I can see the faces already about my double charges. I just do that to see what it looks like. I DO NOT SEAT A BULLET AND TRY TO SHOOT THEM. I EMPTY THE CASE AFTER LOOKING AT THE CHARGE AND CHARGE IT WITH THE PROPER CHARGE.
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Old August 16, 2012, 10:04 PM   #13
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I recommend 4.3 to 4.4gr Titegroup for your 115gr 9mm loads. (I assume you are using full metal jacket bullets.) This load will have a bit of "snap" to it, but overall it will have much less recoil that your 5.9gr Unique loads.

For better results, I recommend you try some 124gr FMJ (4.1gr Titegroup) or 147gr FMJ (3.3gr Titegroup).

Good luck and enjoy shooting those steel plates.

Chris
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Old August 16, 2012, 10:35 PM   #14
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If you ever wanna branch out and try something different pick up some 147gr Bullets and load em over Solo 1000. Very soft shooting and clean burning.

Blame any misspellings on Tapatalk
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Old August 23, 2012, 03:28 PM   #15
arion
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Hello.
Please help me ...

I would like to reload 9mm Luger cartridge. But Hungary is not available in gun powder. I have an old rifle gunpowder, German Mauser rifle ammunition, several pounds.
To be used? How much grain is needed?
Thank you ...
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Old August 23, 2012, 03:33 PM   #16
jwrowland77
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I wouldn't use any powder that you can't find in a manual specifically design for 9mm Luger. In other words, if it doesn't show the powder in your manual for 9mm...don't use it!!!
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Old August 23, 2012, 03:43 PM   #17
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Do not try to load small capacity pistol rounds with rifle powder. It is beyond dangerous. The rifle powder would either do one of two things.

1 Not ignite from the primer. You get a bullet stuck in the barrell. If by some weird event it went far enough that another round were chambered, and it some how fired the resulting pressure would destroy the gun, possibly injuring,maiming, or even killing the shooter, as well as anyone unfortunate enough to be in the area of the shooter as well.

2 The powder would ignite, and the pressure created would rupture the case, and damage the gun. The shooter, and bystandars would be at risk of shrapnal from the gun blowing appart as well.

In short.

If powder for reloading is not legaly available in your country buy factory ammo if it is legaly available. If it is not legaly available then I advise obeying the laws of the country even if you do not agree with them.

If you mean as far as you can not have it shipped I would reccomend finding a shop that can have it shipped there. I am sure it would expensive though.
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Old August 23, 2012, 04:06 PM   #18
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"Well I'm using 5.9 of Unique. I was looking for something that doesn't recoil so much, "

Used less Unique.
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Old August 23, 2012, 04:06 PM   #19
arion
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Hello.
Thank you for your detailed answer.
All components can be purchased legally. Blank Cartridges, bullets, reloading equipment, not just Primers and powder. Bullets are manufactured in Hungary (7 usd/100bullets), blank cartridges, (9usd/100 pieces), can be purchased freely.
But what if it is gunpowder and primer ...

The old rifle powder, no reloading of data, how to use a pistol.
Powder dimension: 2x2x0,45mm flattened. Originally german WW2 powder.
I was hoping that I can use. I'm sorry to throw away. 5 kilos!
Unknown, no way to use an old gunpowder?

Thank you.
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Old August 23, 2012, 04:14 PM   #20
arion
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This year is allowed to be reloading, but unfortunately not all components are available. The stores do not hold gun powder and primers.

Sorry for the bad english, I use google translator.
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Old August 23, 2012, 04:20 PM   #21
m&p45acp10+1
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I would reccomend a reloading manual it has a better explantaion of powder than I can give.

As far as the surplus powder you would have to know what it is, and find data for it. Never just guess it for reloading it is dangerous. Saving a few dollars is never a good enough reason to risk serious ijury, or death. At the least damaging or destroying your gun.

to reload you would have to have smokeless gun powder. Not to be confused with Black Powder.

Smokelss powder uses Nitro Glycerin absorbed into a form of cellulose material to stabilize it, and give it the desired rate of burn. It is a flamable substance.

Black Powder is made from sulfer, charcoal, and saltpeter it is classified as an Explosive. While some older cartiges can be loaded with it, as they were disigned to shoot with black powder. It would not get you the needed pressure to rife 9mm in the small case.

If you are unable to buy powder or primer then reloading is out of reach for you. You are stuck with factory ammo.
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Old August 23, 2012, 04:41 PM   #22
arion
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The professional chemist. I know the difference between the powder.
The old gunpowder, smokeless powder. single basic, not containing nitroglycerin.
I bought it because it is very cheap. 5kg/10usd. But it's useless ....
I prefer to buy factory ammo.

I wanted to reload, I have seen many videos on the internet. In your country all so simple ....
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Old August 24, 2012, 03:16 AM   #23
arion
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Another option ... I got offer Russian-made pistol gun powder. (surplus powder)
No name. Information is only a charge. 7.62 x 25 Tokarev Ammo: 5.5 grams FMJ bullet, 0.6 grams powder. Powder burn rate is very fast.

This powder can not be used to reload 9mm Luger? With a smaller amount?

Thank you ...

Last edited by arion; August 24, 2012 at 03:38 AM.
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Old August 24, 2012, 04:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
This powder can not be used to reload 9mm Luger? With a smaller amount?
The safety of doing so, or the proper amount, is impossible to say without knowing for sure what powder it is. My advice - don't use it. Reloading is best done without guessing.
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Old August 24, 2012, 05:44 AM   #25
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Ok. Thanks. Lee Presses what you have?
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