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Old February 28, 2007, 07:57 PM   #1
tcarr
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Stupid Question?

I have decided to try and take my shooting to the next level and have started trying to precision handload. I am shooting a 300 Win Mag. I am able to get about 1/2 MOA without sorting cases or weighing anything but powder, will loading with more precision; matched cases, weighing bullets, uniforming pockets, etc. help in my pursuit of accuracy? I am thinking about trying some competition.

My real question is about the expander button in the neck sizer. I am now using a Redding Type S, and it seems to me that having the expander button increase the ID of the neck kind of negates using different size bushings for different neck tensions. Is my reasoning faulty? What do some of you more experianced reloaders do?

Some background: I have been reloading for about 18 years but have only recently decided to try reloading for precision. I was instructed many years ago in long distance shooting, but want to get back into it shooting at 500 and 1000 yards.

Thanks for any info!
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Old February 28, 2007, 09:49 PM   #2
Ruger4570
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There is certainly nothing shoddy abour 1/2 min groups. If you are looking for some of the best reloading equipment, check out Sinclair products. Anything you do to make all things uniform will most likely improve results, but not always. You will have to try seperating cases, weighing them and the bullets etc.
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Old February 28, 2007, 09:54 PM   #3
rwilson452
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I have decided to try and take my shooting to the next level and have started trying to precision handload. I am shooting a 300 Win Mag. I am able to get about 1/2 MOA without sorting cases or weighing anything but powder, will loading with more precision; matched cases, weighing bullets, uniforming pockets, etc. help in my pursuit of accuracy? I am thinking about trying some competition.

I have found uniforming primer pocket to be of little to no value. Matched cases by volume works. so does weighing bullets.
Do you own a Chronograph?


My real question is about the expander button in the neck sizer. I am now using a Redding Type S, and it seems to me that having the expander button increase the ID of the neck kind of negates using different size bushings for different neck tensions. Is my reasoning faulty? What do some of you more experianced reloaders do?

I don't use redding dies. Neck tension must be uniform. Having a uniform neck thickness adds a little, but not much and is rifle dependant Most people that turn neck do so because their chamber is so tight they don't have a choice.

Some background: I have been reloading for about 18 years but have only recently decided to try reloading for precision. I was instructed many years ago in long distance shooting, but want to get back into it shooting at 500 and 1000 yards.

Thanks for any info!

Almost anything you can do to make one round exactly like any other round is a good thing.

I presume you have tuned your overall length.
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Old February 28, 2007, 09:58 PM   #4
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I believe you’re right about the expander changing neck tension. I don’t use the expander. Take it out and just use the neck bushings to determine neck tension.

Quote:
will loading with more precision; matched cases, weighing bullets, uniforming pockets, etc.
I would use good brass (Lapua) and try weighing bullets and see if you can tell a difference. I believe that the recoil in the bigger cartridges is also a factor in keeping the same position. ½ MOA in a 300 Win Mag sounds pretty good to me.
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Old February 28, 2007, 10:14 PM   #5
tcarr
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Thanks for the input. I am working up loads based on a single overall length, so that all are the same, and will adjust once I find the most accurate powder charge. I have already begun weighing brass an the bullets.

I got my first 12 guage when I was 11, so I have been dealing with recoil for 26 years and the 300 win doesn't have that bad a kick. Just a pretty quick push.
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Old February 28, 2007, 10:23 PM   #6
tcarr
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Forgot to answer one question. Yes I do own a chronograph, and shoot through it every time I practice.

With my hunting loads, I noticed large differences in velocity, +/- 120 fps or so. I think it was because of case volume, after doing some research on it. I am about to have my first range session with weighed and uniform cases and weighed bullets.

ALso, the Sierra manual says that bullet weight variation up to, I think, 4% is OK and that powder charge does not have to be exact either for accurate loads. Anyone have any thought on the bullet weight issue, Bergers were all +/- .1 grains except for 4 out of 100 that were = about .5 grains. I separated them all out into equal weight lots, and am planning to shoot all same weight at the same time.
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Old February 28, 2007, 10:47 PM   #7
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I believe as stated by rwilson452

Quote:
Almost anything you can do to make one round exactly like any other round is a good thing.
I believe in the military competitions using 300 Win Mag they weigh bullets and trickle powder. Sounds to me like you’re on the right path. Good Luck and let us know what your results are.
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Old March 1, 2007, 09:56 AM   #8
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I think once you have a load you really like you will find the .5 gr spread of powder charge will make no difference. Just hunt for that middle ground within the allowable spread and it can speed up your loading process as you don't need to be quite as picky with charging. the Chrono will verify this if I'm right. As always all rifles are different. YMMV

I don't shoot the big stuff I'm more into varmint stuff. but I never had any luck accuracy wise with Barnes bullets.

As always there are two schools of thought on long range accuracy. The smaller faster bullet or the heavier slower bullet. I'm not going to go down that road.
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Old March 1, 2007, 03:53 PM   #9
Delynn
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Tcarr I am very interested in the loads that you are shooting. I have just got caught up in this long range shooting in the last year or so and it has been very rewarding and disappointing at times. Got to shoot 1015 yards here awhile back and really loved it. If you don't mine shooting me an email so I can pick your brain about a few things. Thanks
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Old March 4, 2007, 12:50 AM   #10
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Anything you can do to make all of your cartridges exactly the same will Make your groups smaller. I reload alot of 300 Win MAg, ( I Am married to a AR-30 in 300 Win) I found my rifle prefers case sized to neck size. My groups went from .5 inches to .2 inches just by case sizing and and using a neat little trimmer i got from Lee to trim the cases to the same length [B][I][U]AFTER[U][I][B] sizing. And by the way , these are Sierra GAMEKINGS, not Matchkings. I always use gamekings because i shoot lots of animals and prefer bullets that explode on impact, killing the animal to a hard jacketed bullet that will not expand.You could use match bullets to get smaller groups. I havent really measured every bullet for weight, I do however measure my powder exactly the same every time . I use a scale and I get the pointers on the scale exactly level every time. After i found the load my rifle liked, I loctited the settings on my Dies so they never change. Several dozen coyotes fell to my ar-30 well over 700 yards last year. and more will to, If i have time after I get done with the wild pigs.
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Old March 4, 2007, 02:29 AM   #11
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The really large volume cases are pretty tolerant of variations in charge and volume due to variation in seating depth, but rather than use that margin by being sloppy, I'd take advantage of it and get the most uniformity possible. One thing to think about after selecting the charge that works the best is to adjust the velocity back to that point if it changes due to seating depth differences when you go to optimize that. In fact, you should probably make sure that each depth you test is tested at the "sweet spot" velocity that you have already found.

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Old March 14, 2007, 08:25 PM   #12
williamd
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weigh bullets, weigh every powder load (yea, a pain), trim necks, ream necks with a hand tool, clean primer pocket, no neck expansion, no crimp, same primers, same brass, same everything if you can. No loose powder or open space. If the bullet is not crunching the powder then put in some kapok (or similar). Seat to lands (by gently closing the bolt on a round) (you can leave the powder out if it makes you nervous) then screw seater die one turn past this (puts bullet about 1/14" from lands). Great gun, spotless bbl, great trigger, floated bbl, .... lots of trophies, medals, belt buckles, etc say this will work .... after a few years and several thousand rounds of practice. Read Warren Page's "The Accurate Rifle". No, you can't have my copy. Oh, no free throat bbls ala Shultz&Larsen or Weatherby!
Once heard a youngster ask an oldster (before I was one) what it took to get as good as he was. Reply was, 'Twenty years and twenty thousand dollars.' Those were 1975 dollars! Sage!

Last edited by williamd; March 15, 2007 at 10:52 PM.
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