December 18, 2010, 02:10 PM | #1 |
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Best S&W Model 64
I recently purchased two S&W model 64's one is a 64-5 and one a 64-6. Both are fine shooters and the trigger pull is nearly identical. I am not going to keep both and would like some advice on which would be the better choice to hang on to.
Thoughts on what the benefits of each is such as: internal firing pin vs. hammer mounted firing pin and etc... I appreciate any ideas, comments, or links to websites/forums that you might have. Is one more desirable than the other?? Is there a list of all of the engineering changes for these models with pros and cons? |
December 19, 2010, 01:36 AM | #2 |
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64-4 1988 New yoke retention system/radius stud package
64-6 1998- MIM hammer, floating firing pin, internal change Quite frankly, although some people don't have a problem with MIM parts, I would keep the 64-4. More parts available for it Last edited by gyvel; December 19, 2010 at 02:27 AM. |
December 20, 2010, 12:06 AM | #3 |
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Thanks for your thoughts, however I do not have a 64-4. The other is a 64-5 and a 64-6 as stated in the initial post. I appreciate your comments though.
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December 20, 2010, 01:06 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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December 20, 2010, 11:05 AM | #5 |
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O.K. thank you for the post.
So the consensus is if all things being equal there is no record of either model having any performance or malfunction issues correct? |
December 20, 2010, 11:08 AM | #6 |
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Niether has the lock. -6 has MIM. Both will perform fine. -5 is the more desirable of the two.
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December 20, 2010, 05:24 PM | #7 |
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Glad I read this, I picked up a 64-5 for $210 a few weeks ago, I get much better hits with it then any of my semis.
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December 21, 2010, 12:39 PM | #8 |
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The general rule with S&W revolvers is to get the lowest "- number" you can. Pretty much across the lineup each new generation of a model represents some sort of cost saving change made by S&W. They either got rid of features or replaced more expensive machined parts with cheaper MIM, etc. That's not true 100% of the time but for most generations that's the case.
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December 22, 2010, 06:34 AM | #9 |
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Just to carry the standard high for today's 'garbage' 64's, like my MIM hammer & trigger, two-piece barrel, frame mounted fp, etc, 'abortion' below - a 64-8:
I had the choice between it and several older security guard trade-ins at my pusher's 5/08 - for $309 OTD. This one had two soiled chambers - had obviously never even been issued and came with even the 'Club 1852' application in the box. I spritzed it with aerosol RemOil, put some Ahrends square conversion cocobolo's on it, and it became my range bag's 'frequent rider' for the next year. It hit coincident POA/POI at 10-12 yf with Remington R38S12 +P 158gr LHPSWC's - and my 125gr JHP homebrew plinkers - fun gun. A year later, it got it's OEM UM's Combats back (See above.) - and took it's post as a house gun. It does still sneak out to the range on occasion - it's just 'fun'! In my mind, the 'best' 64 you can buy is the one that comes in an acceptable state physically and at a fair cost. Of course, it is a great revolver, afterall, it's a +P rated and easier to clean version of a Model 10! Stainz Last edited by Stainz; December 22, 2010 at 08:08 AM. |
December 22, 2010, 08:34 AM | #10 |
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I have a pair of near-twin 64-3s (mid-80s) that were about $250 apiece including shipping and FFL. An extreme bargain, fun and accurate shooters, durable and great for HD.
Last edited by spacecoast; December 22, 2010 at 09:03 AM. |
December 24, 2010, 01:37 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Basically, on the 64-5, it was still "new yoke retention system on 3" and 4" heavy barrel" guns. Doesn't change anything: Keep the 64-5. |
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December 24, 2010, 04:55 AM | #12 |
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ive been looking for a 64, but cant find any ones i like. I must be looking in the wrong places.
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