Nickel versus brass for reloading

SquirrelNuts · October 10, 2002, 04:13 PM

I am putting together a reloading wish list.

I want to use the RCBS Rockchucker press, dies, etc.

I am shopping around for brass in 30-06. I already have some LC 72 (I think its 72) brass, some Win and RP in small quantities. This brass is once fired by me-I saved the cartidges. I found some good deals from Midway (they appear good to me). I have seen that I can expect at least five good reloads from brass cartridges. Midway also sells some nickel cartridges for a few cents more ($220/1000 versus $160/1000). Is the nickel more durable or somehow better for the cost? Or, is it simply that nickel costs more to obtain and process? Is the RP better than the Win? Or does it simply depend on what works best. I am willing to buy boxes of 20 at first to try each out if that is the case.

I will be shooting 163 gr. AP, Nosler J4 (150 gr.?) competition bullets, and 168 gr. HPBT ballistic tip Nosler bullets. I may also try some Sierra and others, but I like the Noslers.

I am still not sure what primers to use. Everyone seems to have their own opinion on what works best.

-SquirrelNuts

dick w. holliday · October 10, 2002, 04:19 PM

my experience with nickle has been that it is more brittle and will generally split before brass casing will. .....Dick

SquirrelNuts · October 10, 2002, 04:28 PM

Midway says the nickel is harder, but will crack if you reload it a lot and it is abusive on the dies

I like the looks of it though.

-SquirrelNuts

Pampers · October 10, 2002, 04:33 PM

My experience with nickel cases is with .45 ACP, not rifle cases. I have plenty of experience with brass rifle cases, I'm a Highpower shooter.

Another problem I've found with nickel cases is the tendency of nickel to build up in the resizing die. This can be deternined by scratches in the cases.

Nickel plated cases were developed to prevent corrosion when carried for long periods of time in leather cartridge loops, as in .38 Special in a policeman's Sam Brown belt.

Steve Smith · October 10, 2002, 04:33 PM

The only looks you need to be concerned about are the looks of your target or dead game.

SquirrelNuts · October 10, 2002, 04:47 PM

Steve,

This is true, I just like things that are different.

Ok-so the nickel plated brass is out the window.

Would I be better to buy a box of 20 (or even 100) cartridges of RP and Win (I cannot affort Norma) from Midway and see what works best? Or is one superior to the other?

-SquirrelNuts

Pampers · October 10, 2002, 05:27 PM

Go to Bartlett's Reloading and get the best once fired military & military match brass.gibrass.com

Fatelvis · October 10, 2002, 05:31 PM

I dont know how true it is, but Ive heard in the past, that after repeated firings/loadings, the nickel will start to flake off the inside of the neck, and be carried down the bore with the next firing. Because of the hardness of the chrome, I would think it would scratch the bore. And if the flaking does happen, that cant be good for uniformity/accuracy anyhow. Id stick with brass, its not as pretty, but it is consistant! Good shooting-

Steve Smith · October 10, 2002, 05:47 PM

I like different things too...I understand. Sometimes different is bad, though.

Ok, that LC brass is some great stuff, as is the Win and R-P. forget Federal, as it is soft. Lapua is about the best you can get, but I doubt you'll need that kind of "best" unless you are going to shoot at 600+ yards. In that case, get the Lapua...might as well. It is as good as Norma and almost half the price. Get it from Sinclair International. Nothing wrong with that LC, though. Beware, .308 and .30-06 LC has a smaller volume so you should drop your load by about 2 grains from a standard load. THAT IS IMPORTANT.

If you really want to get fancy, get a Stoney Point OAL gauge and comparator and find your rifling. Then seat your bullets to .010" off the lands and try from there back to mag length in .005" increments. See where it shines. Supposedly the J4 jacket is thin and can't take a jump, so this may help. You can also buy a concentricity gauge and make sure your bullets and necks are concentric to the cartridge body.

Then you can start turning necks inside and outside, squaring primer pockets, deburring flash holes, removing doughnuts, and about a half-a million other things. When does it stop? (It doesn't, so forget it and go out and shoot!)

SquirrelNuts · October 10, 2002, 08:20 PM

Steve,

Wow! Thanks for all that good info. I will write it in my log tonight. Thanks for the LC warning, I had never read that before.

Pampers,

I will check out the site. I will probably buy some new stuff at first. I prefer to know where my cartridge has been, especially for my first loading.

Ok-I just checked out the site, I like that LC MATCH price-new too.

Thanks guys!

-SquirrelNuts

Redneck2 · October 14, 2002, 05:10 PM

try Sinclair International. Just got their new catalog. More stuff than you could ever dream of.

Rifter · October 14, 2002, 05:29 PM

do they have a website? and do they ship to canada?

bk40 · October 14, 2002, 11:32 PM

Sinclair - don't know about their shipping policies... give 'em a call

October 10, 2002, 04:13 PM	#1
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	Nickel versus brass for reloading I am putting together a reloading wish list. I want to use the RCBS Rockchucker press, dies, etc. I am shopping around for brass in 30-06. I already have some LC 72 (I think its 72) brass, some Win and RP in small quantities. This brass is once fired by me-I saved the cartidges. I found some good deals from Midway (they appear good to me). I have seen that I can expect at least five good reloads from brass cartridges. Midway also sells some nickel cartridges for a few cents more ($220/1000 versus $160/1000). Is the nickel more durable or somehow better for the cost? Or, is it simply that nickel costs more to obtain and process? Is the RP better than the Win? Or does it simply depend on what works best. I am willing to buy boxes of 20 at first to try each out if that is the case. I will be shooting 163 gr. AP, Nosler J4 (150 gr.?) competition bullets, and 168 gr. HPBT ballistic tip Nosler bullets. I may also try some Sierra and others, but I like the Noslers. I am still not sure what primers to use. Everyone seems to have their own opinion on what works best. -SquirrelNuts

October 10, 2002, 04:33 PM	#4
Pampers Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2000 Location: In the Lost State of Franklin Posts: 482	Ditto Dick Holliday My experience with nickel cases is with .45 ACP, not rifle cases. I have plenty of experience with brass rifle cases, I'm a Highpower shooter. Another problem I've found with nickel cases is the tendency of nickel to build up in the resizing die. This can be deternined by scratches in the cases. Nickel plated cases were developed to prevent corrosion when carried for long periods of time in leather cartridge loops, as in .38 Special in a policeman's Sam Brown belt. __________________ Your Most Humble & Obedient Servant Fred J. Drumheller NRA Life NRA Golden Eagle

October 10, 2002, 04:33 PM	#5
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	The only looks you need to be concerned about are the looks of your target or dead game. __________________ Favor the X. Steve Smith NRA Life Member

October 10, 2002, 05:27 PM	#7
Pampers Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2000 Location: In the Lost State of Franklin Posts: 482	You want brass? Go to Bartlett's Reloading and get the best once fired military & military match brass.gibrass.com __________________ Your Most Humble & Obedient Servant Fred J. Drumheller NRA Life NRA Golden Eagle

October 10, 2002, 05:47 PM	#9
Steve Smith Senior Member Join Date: December 9, 1999 Posts: 4,131	I like different things too...I understand. Sometimes different is bad, though. Ok, that LC brass is some great stuff, as is the Win and R-P. forget Federal, as it is soft. Lapua is about the best you can get, but I doubt you'll need that kind of "best" unless you are going to shoot at 600+ yards. In that case, get the Lapua...might as well. It is as good as Norma and almost half the price. Get it from Sinclair International. Nothing wrong with that LC, though. Beware, .308 and .30-06 LC has a smaller volume so you should drop your load by about 2 grains from a standard load. THAT IS IMPORTANT. If you really want to get fancy, get a Stoney Point OAL gauge and comparator and find your rifling. Then seat your bullets to .010" off the lands and try from there back to mag length in .005" increments. See where it shines. Supposedly the J4 jacket is thin and can't take a jump, so this may help. You can also buy a concentricity gauge and make sure your bullets and necks are concentric to the cartridge body. Then you can start turning necks inside and outside, squaring primer pockets, deburring flash holes, removing doughnuts, and about a half-a million other things. When does it stop? (It doesn't, so forget it and go out and shoot!) __________________ Favor the X. Steve Smith NRA Life Member

October 10, 2002, 04:19 PM	#2
dick w. holliday Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2001 Location: NC Posts: 589	my experience with nickle has been that it is more brittle and will generally split before brass casing will. .....Dick

October 10, 2002, 04:28 PM	#3
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	Midway says the nickel is harder, but will crack if you reload it a lot and it is abusive on the dies I like the looks of it though. -SquirrelNuts

October 10, 2002, 04:47 PM	#6
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	Steve, This is true, I just like things that are different. Ok-so the nickel plated brass is out the window. Would I be better to buy a box of 20 (or even 100) cartridges of RP and Win (I cannot affort Norma) from Midway and see what works best? Or is one superior to the other? -SquirrelNuts

October 10, 2002, 05:31 PM	#8
Fatelvis Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2001 Location: Lockport, IL Posts: 490	I dont know how true it is, but Ive heard in the past, that after repeated firings/loadings, the nickel will start to flake off the inside of the neck, and be carried down the bore with the next firing. Because of the hardness of the chrome, I would think it would scratch the bore. And if the flaking does happen, that cant be good for uniformity/accuracy anyhow. Id stick with brass, its not as pretty, but it is consistant! Good shooting-

October 10, 2002, 08:20 PM	#10
SquirrelNuts Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2002 Location: Marietta, GA-home of the Big Chicken Posts: 247	Steve, Wow! Thanks for all that good info. I will write it in my log tonight. Thanks for the LC warning, I had never read that before. Pampers, I will check out the site. I will probably buy some new stuff at first. I prefer to know where my cartridge has been, especially for my first loading. Ok-I just checked out the site, I like that LC MATCH price-new too. Thanks guys! -SquirrelNuts

October 14, 2002, 05:10 PM	#11
Redneck2 Senior Member Join Date: April 24, 2000 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 519	If'n ya wanna get heavy into reloading try Sinclair International. Just got their new catalog. More stuff than you could ever dream of.

October 14, 2002, 05:29 PM	#12
Rifter Member Join Date: August 21, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 82	do they have a website? and do they ship to canada?

October 14, 2002, 11:32 PM	#13
bk40 Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 1999 Location: Mississippi Posts: 1,004	Sinclair - don't know about their shipping policies... give 'em a call