Cleaning cylinder on old revolver

spleenandideal · November 22, 1999, 08:02 PM

Howdy~
Anyone know of the best way to clean out the chambers of a Model 66 S&W in stainless steel?
Apparently, the original owner only shot lead cast .38 special, and the forward portions of each chamber is really fouled. I tried using hoppes#9 and several bronze brushes, but it seems futile.... Anyone have any suggestions about solvents, tools, etc? I'm trying to avoid having to pick at it with a dental tool. It's worse than cleaning the crud out of an AR15 bolt carrier! Thanks

Jim V · November 22, 1999, 09:00 PM

There is the LEWIS LEAD REMOVER, bronze wool wraped around a brass bore brush, Sweet's Australian 7.62 Bore Cleaner, and 10mmrules' suggestion of a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide (see: HANDGUNS and PISTOLCRAFT forum.)

Adding hydrogen peroxide to Sweet's helps it cut lead better too.

**4V50 Gary** · November 23, 1999, 04:36 PM

Use an old .38 caliber brush and wrap some copper Choir Boy (go to your cleaning supplies of your local supermarket). Use a little solvent and Choir Boy makes for fast cleaning!

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

Kernel · November 23, 1999, 09:16 PM

Get a Hoppe's Tornado bore bush, it'll get out 99% of the lead & crud. Finish up with some J&B Bore Cleaner. J&B and an old tooth bush will also clean the fouling off the cylinder face in about 90 seconds. Both products are available from LOCK, STOCK, & BARREL http://www.lockstock.com/
-- Kernel

BBINJ · November 28, 1999, 09:03 AM

By far the fastest and best method here would be one of those lead removal reamers that Brownells sells, but BE CAREFUL! Its not brain surgery by any means, just remember that the reamer is going to remove the lead very quickly - too much and you'll be cutting steel. Making patches out of one of those "lead wipe" cloths (I think RIG makes them) works OK too, just slower.

**4V50 Gary** · November 28, 1999, 11:28 AM

Those Lead-Wipe Away patches/cloth works great...but be careful not to touch the surface metal as it also removes bluing.

Also be sparing in your application of the stainless Tornado brushes. Use it sparingly as stainless steel will abrade against the gun itself. There is a brass version of that brush you may want to consider.

[This message has been edited by 4V50 Gary (edited November 28, 1999).]

spleenandideal · November 29, 1999, 10:21 PM

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

Gary, I tried the tornado brush, and it worked great. Unfortunately I didn't know they made brass versions. Any info on where I can mail-order them? I don't see them in Sinclair or an old Midway catalog.

November 22, 1999, 08:02 PM	#1
spleenandideal Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 1998 Location: I-77, USA Posts: 522	Howdy~ Anyone know of the best way to clean out the chambers of a Model 66 S&W in stainless steel? Apparently, the original owner only shot lead cast .38 special, and the forward portions of each chamber is really fouled. I tried using hoppes#9 and several bronze brushes, but it seems futile.... Anyone have any suggestions about solvents, tools, etc? I'm trying to avoid having to pick at it with a dental tool. It's worse than cleaning the crud out of an AR15 bolt carrier! Thanks

November 22, 1999, 09:00 PM	#2
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	There is the LEWIS LEAD REMOVER, bronze wool wraped around a brass bore brush, Sweet's Australian 7.62 Bore Cleaner, and 10mmrules' suggestion of a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide (see: HANDGUNS and PISTOLCRAFT forum.) Adding hydrogen peroxide to Sweet's helps it cut lead better too.

November 23, 1999, 04:36 PM	#3
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	Use an old .38 caliber brush and wrap some copper Choir Boy (go to your cleaning supplies of your local supermarket). Use a little solvent and Choir Boy makes for fast cleaning! ------------------ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

November 23, 1999, 09:16 PM	#4
Kernel Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 1999 Location: Madison, WI.... "78 Square Miles Surrounded by Reality" Posts: 923	Get a Hoppe's Tornado bore bush, it'll get out 99% of the lead & crud. Finish up with some J&B Bore Cleaner. J&B and an old tooth bush will also clean the fouling off the cylinder face in about 90 seconds. Both products are available from LOCK, STOCK, & BARREL http://www.lockstock.com/ -- Kernel

November 28, 1999, 09:03 AM	#5
BBINJ Member Join Date: November 19, 1999 Location: Pennsylvania, USA Posts: 22	By far the fastest and best method here would be one of those lead removal reamers that Brownells sells, but BE CAREFUL! Its not brain surgery by any means, just remember that the reamer is going to remove the lead very quickly - too much and you'll be cutting steel. Making patches out of one of those "lead wipe" cloths (I think RIG makes them) works OK too, just slower.

November 28, 1999, 11:28 AM	#6
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	Those Lead-Wipe Away patches/cloth works great...but be careful not to touch the surface metal as it also removes bluing. Also be sparing in your application of the stainless Tornado brushes. Use it sparingly as stainless steel will abrade against the gun itself. There is a brass version of that brush you may want to consider. [This message has been edited by 4V50 Gary (edited November 28, 1999).]

November 29, 1999, 10:21 PM	#7
spleenandideal Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 1998 Location: I-77, USA Posts: 522	Thanks for all of the suggestions! Gary, I tried the tornado brush, and it worked great. Unfortunately I didn't know they made brass versions. Any info on where I can mail-order them? I don't see them in Sinclair or an old Midway catalog.