April 17, 2008, 05:21 PM | #1 |
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Flitz
What is your experience with FLITZ?
I have used it to clean some old nickle pistols, but other than that I have never used it on blued guns. I'd like some feedback. Thanks. |
April 17, 2008, 05:59 PM | #2 |
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I use it on everything without a porous finish. Good stuff!
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April 17, 2008, 06:06 PM | #3 |
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Have used it quite a bit on stainless guns and it is great stuff. Used it once, very lightly, to remove a bit of rust on a blued rifle, again with good results.
( I've also used it on plexiglass to polish out and remove scratches) |
April 17, 2008, 07:00 PM | #4 |
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J B Books
I've used it on brass, chrome, copper, stainless steel, nickel, chrome, silver, gold, and blued firearms. I have never had any damage or abrasion to any blued finish that I've used it on.
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April 17, 2008, 08:50 PM | #5 |
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Used it lightly on a blued gun when I was younger and it took the finish off.
Good for SS guns. Mother's Mag Polish is highly recommended here as well. I've found a microfiber cloth to really bring out the shine on a blued gun.
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April 17, 2008, 10:03 PM | #6 |
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Flitz is a great product. I think they've been making that stuff for around 30 years.
It is totally safe on Factory Hot Bluing. The product has no abrasives and is even safe inside the barrel. Flitz has a long list of champion competition shooters who claim Flitz is a necessity. Recently the company came out with a rifle/gun and knife wax. It comes in a spray that can be used on everything from wood stocks to stainless steel and plastics. Here's a link to their website if you want it. http://www.flitz.com/april_specials.html Hope this info helps. Oh yes. A good microfiber cloth is a must. |
April 17, 2008, 10:11 PM | #7 |
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Don't believe that Flitz is not abrasive! It certainly is.
It is a fine abrasive, to be sure, but it is definitely abrasive. Used excessively it will damage bluing and plating. Flitz is a good polish, but you simply can not polish without abrasion. |
April 18, 2008, 04:57 AM | #8 |
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What Bill DeShivs said. It does have an abrasive in it, however it is a very fine abrasive. Happitch Simichrome, JB Bore Paste and JB Bore Bright are more abarasive than Flitz. I use Flitz as the final polish on knives I make.
Martyn
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April 18, 2008, 09:50 AM | #9 |
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Marty-
Thanks for that post- I was wonderin how Flitz fit in the whole scheme of things with Simichrome. Somebody ran off with the last tube of Flitz I had... still got a death grip on my Simichrome though.
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April 22, 2008, 11:19 AM | #10 |
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I wouldn't be without Flitz & Nevr-Dull.
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April 22, 2008, 04:01 PM | #11 |
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case preparation.
I used it to revive my polishing media in my vibrator.
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April 25, 2008, 12:10 AM | #12 |
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Flitz is good stuff. I found a polish I think is finer and can give a mirror polish. I had some pitting on an old mauser bolt to deal with. I used an Arkansas stone to work the pits out and then polished with Flitz like a mad man. It worked fine but I wasn't 100% happy. It was good but I wanted it to look like chrome. Then I found a tube in my Mother's basement left over from a previous homeowner. It is old enough to say "Made in West Germany" on the tube. It's called Wenol and you can still buy it. So I gave it a try. My bolt now has a mirror finish. This stuff is incredible. I don't think I would use it on bluing though. It seemed to cut faster than Flitz and may polish right through your finish. Stick with Flitz for that.
By the way... Wenol went in my tumbler with walnut shells last night.... The brass is nniicccee.
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April 26, 2008, 05:55 AM | #13 |
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I've used it for years. I use it in my vibratory brass tumbler. Just add a little to the corncob media & brass comes out like new.
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April 30, 2008, 05:42 PM | #14 |
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The best stuff I have ever used and I have tried them all. There is another product called Maas that is just as good. My hobbies have been in the realm of metalworking for 20 years and I have had a go at everything from making japanese sword fittings from steel and various copper based alloys to making the only timascus jewlery I have ever seen. The Flitz is technically abrasive but it is so fine that it won't wear down hours of fine hand texturing on soft metal. Timascus, titanium, tantalum, niobium and platinum (I like playing with the weird metals) are the most difficult to polish metals and the Flitz on a Dremel buffer does it wonderfully with the right prep. If you ever come across a stainless Beretta 92 with blue anodized frame, a mirror polished slide and dark chrome colored titanium nitride coated trigger and controls that would be my first project with Flitz cream. I worked that slide down to 800 grit and polished it to a scratchless shine. That was the most pimp looking gun I've ever seen. If you like shiney it's the way to go.
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