Glock reloading

[Jack.Ruby]

Has anyone actually had or know of someone that had a problem with FMJ reloads in a Glock at starting load weights?

Specifically with the G17 or G32 (or for that matter any 9mm or .357 Sig)

[hickstick_10]

try something a little heavier then starting loads and it may answer your own question

[Brian Pfleuger]

I've loaded rounds for my G33 (357sig) at around 1100 fps with no problems. It was only 5 rounds, so hardly a significant sample size. I can't remember for sure now, I think it was 7.4gr Power Pistol.

What sort of problem are you talking about?

[Jack.Ruby]

I guess the over expansion of the brass and the weakening of it too much to be reloaded, "glocked brass".
Just keep hearing that its suggested not to reload with Glocks. In my research I have yet to read of someone who actually had a problem.

I have a G17 and planned on buying a G32 (probably go with the XD .357Sig if I cant reload glocks)

[Brian Pfleuger]

The major problem with "glocked" brass is in the 40SW. Even with those, the newer guns, or at least some of them, have almost 100% chamber support.

If you're going with 357sig (which I recommend), all I can speak to is my G33.

Here's a picture of the chamber support.





Slightly blurry, but you get the idea. Near on 100% chamber support. In fact, I bought a Lone Wolf barrel and had read that they offered "better support" than factory, only to find that they are in fact WORSE than factory barrels. At least in 357sig, I can speak to no other caliber with authority.

[hodaka]

Jack,

I've been reloading for a G17 for nearly 20 years. Truthfully, some of the reloads that I have used in the past were embarrasingly sloppy. Soft lead, overloads, underloads, seating depths all over the place, etc. The Glock is a solid platform and difficult to screw up. I am much better with quality control these days and the rounds work well and are accurate. I use the brass until it splits. I can't address the 10mm, 40's etc. from personal experience, but the 9mm is rugged.

[Jack.Ruby]

Good to hear,
Bought my reloading stuff and thought I did all my homework and then I reed about the "glock brass" though for a minute I just wasted a lot of money.

sounds like glocked brass may become a think of the past??

[Foxbat]

Don't worry about legends that are being circulated around. I load for Glocks all the time, ALL their calibers (I have every model Glock there is, plus some), loaded some quite hot, both in .40 and in .357Sig, shot many tens of thousands of rounds with no single problem. I typically load 125 grain bullets to over 1300fps for .357, and in .40 155 grains for 1170fps. The brass is perfectly reusable, I hardly throw away any of it, after many reloads.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Glocks, or with reloading for Glocks.

[Jack.Ruby]

Haven't got my G32 yet but plan on it soon. Is reloading the .357 Sig tricky because of the "necking" and higher pressures?
Any recommendation on a certain die set? I have the Lee Turret now, and plan on getting the Lee dies.

Sorry for all the questions, just like to know what im getting myself into.

[Foxbat]

Just a bit more tricky than the straight walled cartridges. You need to use the bullets specifically designed for it, with sufficient cylinder section. I first used the Redding dies, with lube, but for some reasons I kept getting streaks and scratches on the cases. I got rid of them and switched to Dillon carbide dies - no single issue since then.

I set the sizing die just enough to make sure the ammo goes freely into the chamber - as every gun is different, of course. The rest is trivial. At first I would not go too hot, just to make sure.

Also, absolutely mandatory to use the Factory Crimp die, like Lee.

[Shoney]

The Undeserved Myth of Glock Kabooms.
You can't shoot reloads in Glocks
You can't shoot lead in Glocks
I got my polygonal barreled 40S&W’s when the ”lead bullets cause Glock and other polygonal-barrel KAGOOMS” was being wildly bantered about on many forums, with very little truth to the mix. Before reloading lead, I did extensive research and discussed the problem with some well known gunsmiths and the Glock people at the SHOT Show. Both sphincters on every Glock staff were tighter than a bull a$$ at fly time. Nice folks, but NO HELP THERE! But they did make a valid point. Glock pistols are tremendously popular, and by shear weight of numbers you will have more “supposed problems” (their words).

There was no single factor that caused the problem; there were combinations of contributing factors. The shortest oversimplification is, “Glock KABOOMS were most commonly caused by lead buildup which could have been avoided with frequent inspection and cleaning of the chamber and barrel.” Just how often is frequent??? Every 100 rounds is anal, every 200 rounds is prudent??????? Hell, I’ll err on anal until I get some data to increase or decrease.

Problems:
Unsupported Chamber - Glock started with loose chambers with a small grove at the rear in the 6 o’clock position, thus the case was not touching anything at that point, it was unsupported. If the pressure is sufficient and/or the case weak, then it will either expand into the unsupported portion of the chamber or will rupture.
Firing Out Of Battery - Means the weapon will fire when the slide is not completely forward; therefore, the cartridge brass is not properly head spaced against the front of the chamber. Glock violently denies their weapons do this. However, everyone I know with an older Glock will tell you they do.
Lead Bullets – the lead needs to be at least a Brinell hardness of 19. Velocities should be kept under 1000fps.

So what causes the KABOOMS?????? The common factor of kabooms was usually case failure, and most of the failures were with reloaded cases. But remember that factory rounds cause good numbers of KABOOMS every year as well.

Glock’s research of KABOOMS showed a build up of lead at the point of head-spacing. This caused the cartridges to be progressively set farther back in the chamber farther and farther as more rounds were fired. The design of the older Glocks allowed them to fire (fire out of battery) these rounds which were set back. If the pressure were sufficient, the case would rupture.

What factors can cause over pressure????? Obviously an overloaded round will do nicely. Lead bullets will cause leading in the barrel and the chamber. The degree of build up and the number of shots required to reach overpressure will vary wildly with lead composition/velocity/powder/lube and so on. The leading of the chamber in combination with the increased pressure of a leaded barrel can cause the case to rupture. There are lots of other factors, but will not be discussed here.

As mentioned, shooting jacketed bullets after lead in polygonal barrels does not clean out the lead. In reality the jacketed bullets irons the lead to shiny flat coating and the bore is decreased.

Bottom line. Shooting lead in polygonal barrels is safe as long as you use hard cast bullets, check the chamber and barrel for leading frequently, and clean the weapon more frequently than you would with jacketed.

[Jack.Ruby]

foxbat
what is you bullet of choice?

[Foxbat]

I have used two kinds - Rainier 124 grain flat nose, and Montana Gold 125 grain .357Sig bullets, it is kind of fat round nose with flat point. Both worked great. I think Montana Gold might have discontinued that style. From what I see on their site, their 124 grain JHP might work just fine, as has well developed cylinder section, but I have not tried it.

[Jack.Ruby]

how about the 121 grain IFP? Is that a Flat Point

https://secure3.mooseweb.com/montana.../pricelist.tpl