Pointers requested on allowing sanded metal to turn naturally instead of bluing - Page 2

bedbugbilly · May 13, 2010, 04:46 PM

Hawg - I love the looks of your Remington! I went back and read the posts and still may have missed it . . . . . what do you coat the bore and the chambers with so that it protects them so they don't rust? Many thanks! bedbug

Hawg · May 13, 2010, 05:08 PM

I used bore butter.

Hawg · May 13, 2010, 05:49 PM

I mixed enough salt in a spray bottle filed with vinegar until it quit dissolving. Removed all internal parts except trigger and hammer. The parts of these inside the gun were coated with bore butter as was the bore and chambers. Spray it down liberally and let it sit. It will most likely need a few more applications to insure complete coverage. Once it dries it will rust up and be nasty looking. If you card it off when it first starts to look nasty it will just be gray. I let mine sit for three days and it came out like it is in the pic. YMMV. If you leave it too long the salt will start to pit the metal.

ebr-lvr · May 14, 2010, 03:22 PM

Hawg, your results are outstanding. I got a '60 and a '51 off the recent Cabela's sale and am doing the '60. I have already deblued w/birchwood casey and now am going to use your salt/vinagar meathod after I defarb. One more question... did you use anything on the screw threads to avoid issues of removal after obtaining desired finish? Thanks.

dlon21 · May 15, 2010, 02:20 PM

Here's how my 1858 turned out.

Head-Space · May 15, 2010, 04:49 PM

I've used Naval Jelly to remove blue and "antique" BP guns. Comes out "French Grey." Wipe on, wipe off, stabilize with "oil" -- I use veggie shortening.

ebr-lvr · May 15, 2010, 05:07 PM

dlon21 It looks a whole lot like an honest old gun, now don't it ?
Good job, bet yer proud of her.

ebr-lvr · May 15, 2010, 05:10 PM

Can someone post a pic of one done up with just naval jelly so I can see before I jump in and go the salt/vinegar route?
Thanks

dlon21 · May 15, 2010, 05:27 PM

Sure, it's an old used gun. It's number 110xxx, don't know what year that would make this gun?

It sure looks better now, than before all bright. ''She'' shoots real straight too, when the wheelgunner does his job right

And that's not all the time, to say the least.

Hawg · May 16, 2010, 02:10 PM

Quote:

did you use anything on the screw threads to avoid issues of removal after obtaining desired finish?

Bore butter on threads.

Looks good dlon

bedbugbilly · May 16, 2010, 06:12 PM

dlon - what a great looking job! You should be proud of it . . . looks like a lot of the originals I've seen! You guys are giving me the "itch" to go ahead and try this the way you describe. As soon as I can get some spare time, I think I'll do my '51 Navy. Thanks to everyone for their photos and advice!

dlon21 · May 16, 2010, 06:50 PM

That is an original gun. It just looked so boring all bright so I decided to try this. Well I'm done for now. Guess it looks better the more I do it, but this feels pretty nice as it is now.

This is what an old civil war gun should look like when it's worn.

RemTim · May 16, 2010, 08:21 PM

Dion, that thing looks ancient. Great job.

RemTim · May 16, 2010, 09:27 PM

The naval jelly turn out alright but I decided to also try the evaporust since it leaves a grey protectied surface. I plan to get it at Auto Zone (its supposed to be in stock at the local store. I'm going to order the Ballistol since i can't find it locally.
The salt and vinegar certainly produces nice results, but i think will experiment with the gray finishes first. I read an interesting article on parkerizing and other formulas:
http://h6x.net/GunCareFormulas.htm

RemTim · May 18, 2010, 01:43 AM

That Evaporust is absolutely amazing, Articap, I thank you and my guns thank you!!!
Here is the result.Got a few lines on the cylinder for some reason. I'll eliminate them next time I clean and soak.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

suzukibruce · May 19, 2010, 02:38 AM

ok so i'm sure you all have seen my cylinder doesnt quite match the rest of the gun so i want to reblue it. i have no idea what i'm doing...lol... i saw the cold blu at wally world and figure the evaporust will get the blue thats left off than i can use the cold blu... so will this actually work or is this wally world blueing a gimmick?

mykeal · May 19, 2010, 06:14 AM

It will work, but it won't give you the same overall finish as a hot blue job. It's really intended for touch up of small areas; cold bluing a large piece and getting a consistent finish is very difficult. If you're expecting a perfect finish like a factory gun you'll be disappointed, but if you don't mind a few, hard-to-notice imperfections it won't be too bad. But even getting that mediocre result does depend on very careful preparation. Fully degreasing, keeping the surface very clean, absolutely no fingerprints, etc. Build wooden fixtures to hold the parts so they don't need to be handled, wear nitrile or latex gloves, etc.

Also, the cold blue is not as durable.

suzukibruce · May 19, 2010, 06:37 AM

ok so what do i need for hot bluing? i bet there is more involved than heating this stuff up...

arcticap · May 19, 2010, 07:01 AM

Hot chemical bluing is usually done at a gun shop that has the bluing tanks set up and some will do a small part for a very reasonable price.
The only home based hot blue that I've ever heard of that works is Herter's Belgian Blue [from Brownell's] which involves boiling the part[s] in water and then repeating the process.
There's a very detailed description about how to use it in Post #37 of the following thread. Check out the pictures in the first post to see how rich the results can be. Unfortunately the product is more costly than having such a small part done by a professional gun bluer which may cost less than $20.
But there will be plenty of the chemical solution left over.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=457226

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7...t/BELGIAN_BLUE

RemTim · May 19, 2010, 10:35 PM

Aricap, that Belgian Blue looked good. Had read a little about it.
The nearest place to get a gun blued from my location that I am aware of 95 miles or so. Two trips would be required since it will take a day or two for it to be ready, which would add to my expense. The guy's price was $60 if I had my 1858 prepped, which would be great if he were local. I have got to have some of that Belgian Blue, though it may be a couple of weeks before I can spare the $$$. I would have the satisfaction of doing a professional job myself and if I ever had to do it again or do another gun, my only investment would be time and sandpaper. I once again owe you my gratitude. Thank you.

May 13, 2010, 04:46 PM	#26
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	Hawg - I love the looks of your Remington! I went back and read the posts and still may have missed it . . . . . what do you coat the bore and the chambers with so that it protects them so they don't rust? Many thanks! bedbug __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

May 14, 2010, 03:22 PM	#29
ebr-lvr Member Join Date: March 16, 2010 Location: missouri hollar Posts: 56	screws ? Hawg, your results are outstanding. I got a '60 and a '51 off the recent Cabela's sale and am doing the '60. I have already deblued w/birchwood casey and now am going to use your salt/vinagar meathod after I defarb. One more question... did you use anything on the screw threads to avoid issues of removal after obtaining desired finish? Thanks. __________________ Col. Jeff Cooper..remembered When a deadly situation presents,One will not "rise to the occasion" but will " default to his highest level of training"

May 15, 2010, 05:07 PM	#32
ebr-lvr Member Join Date: March 16, 2010 Location: missouri hollar Posts: 56	dlon21 It looks a whole lot like an honest old gun, now don't it ? Good job, bet yer proud of her. __________________ Col. Jeff Cooper..remembered When a deadly situation presents,One will not "rise to the occasion" but will " default to his highest level of training"

May 15, 2010, 05:10 PM	#33
ebr-lvr Member Join Date: March 16, 2010 Location: missouri hollar Posts: 56	Pic Please Can someone post a pic of one done up with just naval jelly so I can see before I jump in and go the salt/vinegar route? Thanks __________________ Col. Jeff Cooper..remembered When a deadly situation presents,One will not "rise to the occasion" but will " default to his highest level of training"

May 15, 2010, 05:27 PM	#34
dlon21 Member Join Date: December 5, 2008 Posts: 26	ebr-lvr Sure, it's an old used gun. It's number 110xxx, don't know what year that would make this gun? It sure looks better now, than before all bright. ''She'' shoots real straight too, when the wheelgunner does his job right And that's not all the time, to say the least. Last edited by dlon21; May 16, 2010 at 04:04 PM.

May 13, 2010, 05:08 PM	#27
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	I used bore butter.

May 13, 2010, 05:49 PM	#28
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,189	I mixed enough salt in a spray bottle filed with vinegar until it quit dissolving. Removed all internal parts except trigger and hammer. The parts of these inside the gun were coated with bore butter as was the bore and chambers. Spray it down liberally and let it sit. It will most likely need a few more applications to insure complete coverage. Once it dries it will rust up and be nasty looking. If you card it off when it first starts to look nasty it will just be gray. I let mine sit for three days and it came out like it is in the pic. YMMV. If you leave it too long the salt will start to pit the metal.

May 15, 2010, 04:49 PM	#31
Head-Space Junior member Join Date: May 14, 2010 Posts: 187	I've used Naval Jelly to remove blue and "antique" BP guns. Comes out "French Grey." Wipe on, wipe off, stabilize with "oil" -- I use veggie shortening.

May 16, 2010, 06:12 PM	#36
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	dlon - what a great looking job! You should be proud of it . . . looks like a lot of the originals I've seen! You guys are giving me the "itch" to go ahead and try this the way you describe. As soon as I can get some spare time, I think I'll do my '51 Navy. Thanks to everyone for their photos and advice! __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

May 16, 2010, 06:50 PM	#37
dlon21 Member Join Date: December 5, 2008 Posts: 26	bedbugbilly That is an original gun. It just looked so boring all bright so I decided to try this. Well I'm done for now. Guess it looks better the more I do it, but this feels pretty nice as it is now. This is what an old civil war gun should look like when it's worn.

May 16, 2010, 08:21 PM	#38
RemTim Junior member Join Date: April 10, 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 225	Dion, that thing looks ancient. Great job.

May 16, 2010, 09:27 PM	#39
RemTim Junior member Join Date: April 10, 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 225	The naval jelly turn out alright but I decided to also try the evaporust since it leaves a grey protectied surface. I plan to get it at Auto Zone (its supposed to be in stock at the local store. I'm going to order the Ballistol since i can't find it locally. The salt and vinegar certainly produces nice results, but i think will experiment with the gray finishes first. I read an interesting article on parkerizing and other formulas: http://h6x.net/GunCareFormulas.htm Last edited by RemTim; May 16, 2010 at 11:59 PM.

May 18, 2010, 01:43 AM	#40
RemTim Junior member Join Date: April 10, 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 225	That Evaporust is absolutely amazing, Articap, I thank you and my guns thank you!!! Here is the result.Got a few lines on the cylinder for some reason. I'll eliminate them next time I clean and soak. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Last edited by RemTim; May 20, 2010 at 01:31 PM.

May 19, 2010, 02:38 AM	#41
suzukibruce Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2010 Location: camden maine Posts: 137	ok so i'm sure you all have seen my cylinder doesnt quite match the rest of the gun so i want to reblue it. i have no idea what i'm doing...lol... i saw the cold blu at wally world and figure the evaporust will get the blue thats left off than i can use the cold blu... so will this actually work or is this wally world blueing a gimmick? __________________ Guns don't kill people, jealous husbands that come home from work early kill people

May 19, 2010, 06:14 AM	#42
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	It will work, but it won't give you the same overall finish as a hot blue job. It's really intended for touch up of small areas; cold bluing a large piece and getting a consistent finish is very difficult. If you're expecting a perfect finish like a factory gun you'll be disappointed, but if you don't mind a few, hard-to-notice imperfections it won't be too bad. But even getting that mediocre result does depend on very careful preparation. Fully degreasing, keeping the surface very clean, absolutely no fingerprints, etc. Build wooden fixtures to hold the parts so they don't need to be handled, wear nitrile or latex gloves, etc. Also, the cold blue is not as durable.

May 19, 2010, 06:37 AM	#43
suzukibruce Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2010 Location: camden maine Posts: 137	ok so what do i need for hot bluing? i bet there is more involved than heating this stuff up... __________________ Guns don't kill people, jealous husbands that come home from work early kill people

May 19, 2010, 07:01 AM	#44
arcticap Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2005 Location: Central Connecticut Posts: 3,166	Hot chemical bluing is usually done at a gun shop that has the bluing tanks set up and some will do a small part for a very reasonable price. The only home based hot blue that I've ever heard of that works is Herter's Belgian Blue [from Brownell's] which involves boiling the part[s] in water and then repeating the process. There's a very detailed description about how to use it in Post #37 of the following thread. Check out the pictures in the first post to see how rich the results can be. Unfortunately the product is more costly than having such a small part done by a professional gun bluer which may cost less than $20. But there will be plenty of the chemical solution left over. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=457226 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7...t/BELGIAN_BLUE Last edited by arcticap; May 19, 2010 at 07:12 AM.

May 19, 2010, 10:35 PM	#45
RemTim Junior member Join Date: April 10, 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 225	Aricap, that Belgian Blue looked good. Had read a little about it. The nearest place to get a gun blued from my location that I am aware of 95 miles or so. Two trips would be required since it will take a day or two for it to be ready, which would add to my expense. The guy's price was $60 if I had my 1858 prepped, which would be great if he were local. I have got to have some of that Belgian Blue, though it may be a couple of weeks before I can spare the $$$. I would have the satisfaction of doing a professional job myself and if I ever had to do it again or do another gun, my only investment would be time and sandpaper. I once again owe you my gratitude. Thank you. Last edited by RemTim; May 19, 2010 at 11:13 PM.