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September 24, 2009, 01:49 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: February 17, 2009
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New to loading with lead....
I've been loading for about 7 years, and I've always loaded (.45acp) with plated, or jacketed bullets. I'm considering loading with lead, and I've heard good things about Missour Bullet Company. Their local, and have a good reputation.
Here's my question. What do I need to know about loading lead. Do I have to lube the bullets? Looks like they have the wax ring aruond them already. I've got load data, so that's ok. I just need to know the simple does, and dont's about loading with lead. I'll also take in tips on cleaning too. I've got a Kimber 1911, and a SIG P220 SAO that I'll be loading for. I appreciate any input, and thanks in advance. DBAR |
September 24, 2009, 01:54 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: July 5, 2009
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I use their 45's all the time. Nothing special just follow your load books. However you may have to provide a larger bell on the case if you are shaving some lead.
These bullets are pre-lubed so there is no need to lube. One other thing you may have to clean your dies a little more often if the lube starts to gum them up. |
September 24, 2009, 02:14 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: February 17, 2009
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Thank you Farmland, that's what I was thinking, but wanted to be sure.
DBAR |
September 24, 2009, 09:39 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: December 26, 2004
Location: Louisville KY
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Understand that lead, lubed bullets will smoke a LOT when fired, even with clean powder. I was quite shocked how bad my first reloads belched smoke at the indoor range with Universal and 9mm cast bullets. The people at the other stalls were waving their hands around trying to clear the air.
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September 24, 2009, 09:50 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: January 19, 2009
Location: Powder Springs, GA
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Spoken for truth. My 40 with blue lube and Universal smokes like an old black powder muzzle loader.
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September 24, 2009, 10:11 PM | #6 |
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Location: Ohio
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Lots of good info already in this thread. Lead bullets are a dying breed on most indoor ranges due to the fact that their use makes the air filtration system work much, much harder. Many indoor ranges have simply banned their use.
When you start, make sure to check your bore after so many rounds to see what kind of buildup of lead you may be getting. Barrels build up with lead for a couple different reasons but the bottom line is the same-- a leaded up barrel is getting incrementally smaller and continuing to push bullets through it is asking for trouble because the pressure escalates as the lead builds up. You will likely have to do more scrubbing to get your bore clean after a range session with lead bullets, but it doesn't have to be that bad. Do NOT shoot any jacketed bullets through your handgun after shooting a bunch of lead until you've scrubbed and cleaned the bore. A jacketed bullet going over a bunch of lead in a barrel can make an already difficult cleaning job next to impossible. With all that said, I load cast lead in 9, .38, 10mm, .44 Mag and .45 Auto. If I could find the #@$%'ers, I'd try it in .30 Carb, too. I load and shoot a lot of cast lead and use them more than jacketed.
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September 25, 2009, 08:48 AM | #7 |
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Watch that you expand/bell your case enough but not too much. Not enough will shave lead from the bullet.
Taper crimp is more necessary with lead than jacketed. Be sure to apply enough crimp. Seating die. Be sure to clean the junk out of your seating die every now and then. Lube will bluid up inside the die causing OAL to change. Pull the die apart and clean it. Watch for load build up in your barrel as you work up your loads. I've got no special cleaning tips for ya. As I have yet to have a problem with leading in my barrel. I clean as normal with Hoppies #9. Shooting cast lead is much cheaper than using fmj's. Next thing ya know...you'll be looking for tips on casting your own. That's fun as well. Makes shooting even cheaper. |
September 25, 2009, 03:46 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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