Best loading bench surface?

jcims · November 6, 2008, 08:21 PM

Hey folks,

I'm putting together some plans for a loading bench and am wondering if anyone has a suggestion for the surface itself. I'm thinking of using MDF for the top because of its density and stability, but i don't think i just want bare MDF for the suface. Seems that any powder spills and any metal shaving just never get completely cleaned up (i'm not worried about the cosmetics, just like having a clean surface)

I kind of like this idea (although with a thicker top):
http://www.plansnow.com/wkbmechcloser.html

Another idea would be poured acrylic to get that same smooth hard surface but also a little warmer on the mitts than galvanized.

Third option i'd considered is scrapping the MDF and going with remnant laminate counter top.

Unrelated to the surface question, I'm also thinking about wrapping it with some hardwood to give it a little lip that will keep brass/bullets/primers from rolling off.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!

wncchester · November 6, 2008, 08:30 PM

Three-four coats of Marine Poly over MDF would be fine. So would Formica.

I think you would be happier in the long run to rout a shallow, round bottomed groove along the top edge of the trim band on the bench surface rather than making any kind of raised lip. I know I would.

My bench top is of glued up (doubled) 5/8" particle board, marine poly coated. It's lasted 38 years and if I made a new one tomorrow, I'd do it again. Tuff, looks good, easy to clean, lasts a long time.

rwilson452 · November 6, 2008, 08:39 PM

my first loading bench I constructed from melamine ( sp??) coated MDF it was 3/4 inch and I doubled it glued it together and used wood screws from the bottom up so as to have no blemishes on the surface. the frame underneath was 2X4 two each all the way around shaped in an "L" them screwed up the flat 2X4 into the table top. the legs were 4X4 and I lagged it to to the wall. I then took a chunk of 4X6 under the bench where the press would be lagged the press with lag bolts that didn't quite go all the way thru. Later I changed that and drilled all the way and used bolts and washer/wingnuts on the bottom to facilitate changing out presses. I had two different presses but they had the same foot print thus used the same mounting holes. if you want to use regular mdf I suggest several coats of marine grade urethane. not much will bother it but acetone. So don't spill nail polish remover on it.

T. O'Heir · November 6, 2008, 08:39 PM

MDF will break. Very likely on the first use of the press. A square foot of 1/4" steel plate bolted on with the press bolted to the steel fixes it though. Trust me.
Formica or any other counter top material won't make MDF any stronger.
The counter top might work if it's solid wood. Solid wood doors work. If there's a reclaimed building materials shop near you, you should be able to get a door fairly cheap.

Loader9 · November 6, 2008, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Solid wood doors work.

Exactly what you'll find mine made out of. I buy 3'x 7' 1 3/4" solid core doors and put steel legs under it. Several coats of a Polyurethane clear coat and you're set. Easy to clean up, no possibility of sparks, can be filled if damaged, stable, easy to attach press, powder measure, vise, etc. and you buy one used for cheap. Just get good steel legs to put under it. I also bolt mine to the walls so it doesn't move at all. The legs I get from Graingers also have a brace across them and I have a 3/4" shelf that runs across the bottom about 12" off of the floor. I've also used granite- can you say "HARD to work with", Plywood- damages easily, lumber- talk about uneven, Formica- easy chipped and not much in the way of a fix either, FRP- fiberglas reinforced panels are easily split. The door has worked the best for all of my benchs.

jcims · November 6, 2008, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T. O'Heir

If there's a reclaimed building materials shop near you, you should be able to get a door fairly cheap.

Well hmpf, never thought of that!!! There's actually just such a shop about 10 minutes away from here, I'll have to check it out!

Thanks folks for the replies, sounds like either solid core door or some kind of particle board doubled up and slathered with poly. (or both)

Should be a good winter project. I'm getting the press for free, it'd be a sin not to make a good home for it.

NWPilgrim · November 6, 2008, 10:20 PM

I used 1/4" Masonite over 3/4" plywood. Smooth surface for easy cleaning yet can take a pounding for other projects as well.

I like the idea about old solid wood doors, though!

Scorch · November 7, 2008, 02:58 AM

Mine is Masonite glued to 3/4" marine plywood. Super strong, smooth, and easy to clean. Stronger than MDF and cheaper than Formica. The presses bolt into T-bolts in the mounting holes. I made the bench 25 years ago, and it still works great.

Solid wood doors aren't solid, they are glued together. They're only as strong as the glue used, which is usually hide glue.

butta9999 · November 7, 2008, 03:32 AM

Here is a couple of photos of the construction of my reloading bench. I have dyna bolted the frame to the brickwall and concrete fixed to the floor. Every join is checked in and housed and all fix is done by tek screw and phillips head.

I used MDF for the top as its quite easy to work with and i put a quad bead around the top. There is no movement at all when FL sizing those big magnum cases.

All my presses are bolted through the top and onto a block underneath the bench.

And MDF will not 'break' if constructed right, my bench is going strong after many loads....

Inspector3711 · November 7, 2008, 04:17 AM

I've got a kitchen cabinet that the diswasher would fit into. Got it for free barely used. Put 8 2X4's across the top and 1" plywood on top of those. Everything is screwed and glued with liquid nails. The 2X4's were scavenged from Pallet wood at work.

I put countersinks in some white abs plastic I got from the scrap bin at work and screwed it into the plywood. Now I have a replaceable surface to work on.

I use the dishwasher area to store my oil change pan on the floor. I got my grandads old vice (he was a carpenter) from dad and mounted it on the top of the bench but on the left side of the D/W opening. It felt a little flimsy so I got two 1/2 thick aluminum plates (scrap from work) as wide as the opening and put countersinks in them then mounted one under and one on top of the D/W opening. No longer flimsy. Then I got a reloading press and mounted it to the right side.

I used wing nuts with lock washers for both the press and the vice so I can yank them quickly if I need to use the whole bench.

I also got the upper cabinets which I mounted above the bench. I store my powder measuring system in there along with some other reloading equipment. Where the exhaust hood should go I built a shelf for our old stereo receiver and 5 disc cd changer. The hole that was cut for the exhaust hood allowed me to put the receiver up close and still get ventilation (120 watts per channel JVC digital receiver needs room to breath) for the amplifier. I can't believe I talked my wife out of the stereo. It took another year to get the Bose speakers that she didn't want to give up!

On the left side of the stereo there are shelves instead of cabinets. I display my collection of antique wood planes there and keep the reloading manuals on the top shelf.

3gunfreak · November 7, 2008, 06:22 AM

I laid 1/8 hardboard on top of my bench. If your spills get to much after a few years you can pull it off and replace it and the bench looks brand new.

cgaengineer · November 7, 2008, 06:54 AM

If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it if you back everything with large washers (mine has not broken yet). I have the same on my bench and have just used regular polyurethane for the top coat...seems to work fine. Others have suggested better coating though.

wncchester · November 7, 2008, 09:46 AM

"If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it"

Roger. The question was what to make the top from but perhaps thoughts of the shear stregth of MDF is in order.

The bench top should never have to provide the strength for press mounting, support under the top should do that. I use 2x4s and then cut lengths of 3/8inch "All-Thread" and large washers to go thorought the supports and press holes.

Steel legs are nice but don't really work any better than a 2x4. Wood in comperssion is plenty strong. Lag screwing the legs to the floor is good.

Attaching the bench to a wall will provide all the lateral rigidity needed.

Tools other than the press can easily be attached to any place on a sturdy top without additional support.

Install "bookcase" shelves behind and above the bench, have one shelf at nose level to set your balance scale on so it's easy to read.

ilbob · November 7, 2008, 10:22 AM

mine is a piece of plywood over 2x6 lumber.

i just painted it white. been using the same bench for almost 30 years now.

WESHOOT2 · November 7, 2008, 10:44 AM

My main production bench is carpeted; my development bench is tiled.

I have a smooth shiny Springfield Armory Armorer's mat on my small tiled bench's surface; I have a great big fuzzy mat on my main bench (with a Midway-logo'd small fuzzy mat on IT).

Carpet and tile; yep. Mats on both; yep.

olddrum1 · November 7, 2008, 12:21 PM

2 inch thick maple mounted on 2 1/2 x2 1/2 1/4 inch angle. Easy to clean and you can drop a small block on it if you want.

rwilson452 · November 7, 2008, 03:52 PM

The way I did it the MDF was just part of a sandwich. the press base and the 2X6 were the outer layers. very rigid. My present bench is 1" maple and braced. Can't bend it with my Lee Classic Cast press. I got the Maple dirt cheap direct from the mill.

If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it"

Roger. The question was what to make the top from but perhaps thoughts of the shear stregth of MDF is in order.

abber · November 7, 2008, 07:30 PM

In the early days, I just drilled holes in my formica-topped dinette, and used wingnuts and bolts to secure the old RS5. Even after I replaced that table, I moved the legs from the undrilled half to the drilled half, and continued to use the half-table to load under my staircase. Ah, what we won't do to get our fix.......Nowadays, I have much better equipment, and a 3 car garage to do the work in. I am set up on a standard workbench, but I had a buddy of mine laminate formica to the top for me. I guess it is what I am used to, but it works well for me. When I am not loading ammo there, I can put a scrap of carpet up on it for gun work/cleaning. Pretty simple, and handy.

benzuncle · November 7, 2008, 07:31 PM

My benchtop began as a piece of ¾in. plywood. When that became too sleazy, I added a piece of ¼in. tempered masonite. It's slick and smooth and a nice surface to wipe or brush off. When it gets too nasty, I'll replace it with another, as I did not glue it in place. Postcard size pix available for $5 each. Collect'em and trade'em with your friends.

rwt101 · November 7, 2008, 08:16 PM

Here is mine again

Basic counter top reinforced under the edge for the press.
Bob T

Swampghost · November 7, 2008, 08:58 PM

MDF is neither dense nor stable, it's compressed cardboard. OSB is also not one of my favorites. I like the solid door concept and the groove near the edge. Formica (the good stuff) would be my choice for the final surface and a 2 part epoxy to fill the groove.

I'm not currently reloading but I have a sweet bench that my father built. 4X4 legs, nothing less than 2X6 in construction, the frame is all glued AND through bolted. The top is a layer of 2X8's with a cross of 2X6's and 3/4" Oak T&G flooring to top it off. Weighs about 500#'s.

ir3e971 · November 7, 2008, 11:43 PM

I used two 2 x 6 boards carriage bolted to the top of an old desk. It works well. The stress of the press is distributed well, and I have never had a problem with this arrangement.

crazylegs · November 8, 2008, 08:06 AM

I've bolted a salvaged industrial door to a salvaged steel desk. It's working very well for me.
Crazylegs

Inspector3711 · November 9, 2008, 02:50 AM

Just read my post upstream..... It occured to me.... I'm literally using everything BUT the kitchen sink..... In order to COOK up the perfect load....... I think I'm finally getting there with at least two rifles so the kitchen approach is working for me......

T. O'Heir · November 9, 2008, 04:17 AM

Mine might well be OSB.
"...it's compressed cardboard..." Nope. OSB is hardwood strands or wafers formed with under heat and pressure. MDF is soft wood fibres mixed with resin and wax then formed under pressure and heat. We call both particle board. Both are garbage just the same.
Bought a cheap work bench kit($30Cdn), long ago, with a particle board top, 1" thick and 1.5" over hang on a 2 x 4 frame. Mounted the press with 1/4" bolts and washers and it broke the very first time I used the press. Whined about it at the gun club I was shooting at and one of the guys gave me the 1/4" steel a week later. Mild steel is your friend.

November 6, 2008, 08:21 PM	#1
jcims Senior Member Join Date: August 21, 2005 Location: Ahyah Posts: 290	Best loading bench surface? Hey folks, I'm putting together some plans for a loading bench and am wondering if anyone has a suggestion for the surface itself. I'm thinking of using MDF for the top because of its density and stability, but i don't think i just want bare MDF for the suface. Seems that any powder spills and any metal shaving just never get completely cleaned up (i'm not worried about the cosmetics, just like having a clean surface) I kind of like this idea (although with a thicker top): http://www.plansnow.com/wkbmechcloser.html Another idea would be poured acrylic to get that same smooth hard surface but also a little warmer on the mitts than galvanized. Third option i'd considered is scrapping the MDF and going with remnant laminate counter top. Unrelated to the surface question, I'm also thinking about wrapping it with some hardwood to give it a little lip that will keep brass/bullets/primers from rolling off. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks!

November 6, 2008, 08:30 PM	#2
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	Three-four coats of Marine Poly over MDF would be fine. So would Formica. I think you would be happier in the long run to rout a shallow, round bottomed groove along the top edge of the trim band on the bench surface rather than making any kind of raised lip. I know I would. My bench top is of glued up (doubled) 5/8" particle board, marine poly coated. It's lasted 38 years and if I made a new one tomorrow, I'd do it again. Tuff, looks good, easy to clean, lasts a long time. Last edited by wncchester; November 6, 2008 at 08:39 PM.

November 6, 2008, 08:39 PM	#4
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	MDF will break. Very likely on the first use of the press. A square foot of 1/4" steel plate bolted on with the press bolted to the steel fixes it though. Trust me. Formica or any other counter top material won't make MDF any stronger. The counter top might work if it's solid wood. Solid wood doors work. If there's a reclaimed building materials shop near you, you should be able to get a door fairly cheap. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

November 7, 2008, 02:58 AM	#8
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Mine is Masonite glued to 3/4" marine plywood. Super strong, smooth, and easy to clean. Stronger than MDF and cheaper than Formica. The presses bolt into T-bolts in the mounting holes. I made the bench 25 years ago, and it still works great. Solid wood doors aren't solid, they are glued together. They're only as strong as the glue used, which is usually hide glue. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

November 7, 2008, 04:17 AM	#10
Inspector3711 Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2008 Location: Puget Sound Washington Posts: 1,553	I've got a kitchen cabinet that the diswasher would fit into. Got it for free barely used. Put 8 2X4's across the top and 1" plywood on top of those. Everything is screwed and glued with liquid nails. The 2X4's were scavenged from Pallet wood at work. I put countersinks in some white abs plastic I got from the scrap bin at work and screwed it into the plywood. Now I have a replaceable surface to work on. I use the dishwasher area to store my oil change pan on the floor. I got my grandads old vice (he was a carpenter) from dad and mounted it on the top of the bench but on the left side of the D/W opening. It felt a little flimsy so I got two 1/2 thick aluminum plates (scrap from work) as wide as the opening and put countersinks in them then mounted one under and one on top of the D/W opening. No longer flimsy. Then I got a reloading press and mounted it to the right side. I used wing nuts with lock washers for both the press and the vice so I can yank them quickly if I need to use the whole bench. I also got the upper cabinets which I mounted above the bench. I store my powder measuring system in there along with some other reloading equipment. Where the exhaust hood should go I built a shelf for our old stereo receiver and 5 disc cd changer. The hole that was cut for the exhaust hood allowed me to put the receiver up close and still get ventilation (120 watts per channel JVC digital receiver needs room to breath) for the amplifier. I can't believe I talked my wife out of the stereo. It took another year to get the Bose speakers that she didn't want to give up! On the left side of the stereo there are shelves instead of cabinets. I display my collection of antique wood planes there and keep the reloading manuals on the top shelf. __________________ "If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." The Dalai Llama (5/15/01, The Seattle Times) "That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there." George Orwell

November 6, 2008, 08:39 PM	#3
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	my first loading bench I constructed from melamine ( sp??) coated MDF it was 3/4 inch and I doubled it glued it together and used wood screws from the bottom up so as to have no blemishes on the surface. the frame underneath was 2X4 two each all the way around shaped in an "L" them screwed up the flat 2X4 into the table top. the legs were 4X4 and I lagged it to to the wall. I then took a chunk of 4X6 under the bench where the press would be lagged the press with lag bolts that didn't quite go all the way thru. Later I changed that and drilled all the way and used bolts and washer/wingnuts on the bottom to facilitate changing out presses. I had two different presses but they had the same foot print thus used the same mounting holes. if you want to use regular mdf I suggest several coats of marine grade urethane. not much will bother it but acetone. So don't spill nail polish remover on it.

November 6, 2008, 10:20 PM	#7
NWPilgrim Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,346	I used 1/4" Masonite over 3/4" plywood. Smooth surface for easy cleaning yet can take a pounding for other projects as well. I like the idea about old solid wood doors, though!

November 7, 2008, 06:22 AM	#11
3gunfreak Member Join Date: February 28, 2007 Location: North Carolina Posts: 43	I laid 1/8 hardboard on top of my bench. If your spills get to much after a few years you can pull it off and replace it and the bench looks brand new.

November 7, 2008, 06:54 AM	#12
cgaengineer Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2008 Posts: 264	If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it if you back everything with large washers (mine has not broken yet). I have the same on my bench and have just used regular polyurethane for the top coat...seems to work fine. Others have suggested better coating though.

November 7, 2008, 09:46 AM	#13
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	"If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it" Roger. The question was what to make the top from but perhaps thoughts of the shear stregth of MDF is in order. The bench top should never have to provide the strength for press mounting, support under the top should do that. I use 2x4s and then cut lengths of 3/8inch "All-Thread" and large washers to go thorought the supports and press holes. Steel legs are nice but don't really work any better than a 2x4. Wood in comperssion is plenty strong. Lag screwing the legs to the floor is good. Attaching the bench to a wall will provide all the lateral rigidity needed. Tools other than the press can easily be attached to any place on a sturdy top without additional support. Install "bookcase" shelves behind and above the bench, have one shelf at nose level to set your balance scale on so it's easy to read.

November 7, 2008, 10:22 AM	#14
ilbob Senior Member Join Date: November 29, 2006 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 515	mine is a piece of plywood over 2x6 lumber. i just painted it white. been using the same bench for almost 30 years now. __________________ bob Disclaimers: I am not a lawyer, cop, soldier, gunsmith, politician, plumber, electrician, or a professional practitioner of many of the other things I comment on in this forum.

November 7, 2008, 10:44 AM	#15
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	mine My main production bench is carpeted; my development bench is tiled. I have a smooth shiny Springfield Armory Armorer's mat on my small tiled bench's surface; I have a great big fuzzy mat on my main bench (with a Midway-logo'd small fuzzy mat on IT). Carpet and tile; yep. Mats on both; yep. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

November 7, 2008, 12:21 PM	#16
olddrum1 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2008 Location: Mid Missouri Posts: 807	2 inch thick maple mounted on 2 1/2 x2 1/2 1/4 inch angle. Easy to clean and you can drop a small block on it if you want.

November 7, 2008, 03:52 PM	#17
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	The way I did it the MDF was just part of a sandwich. the press base and the 2X6 were the outer layers. very rigid. My present bench is 1" maple and braced. Can't bend it with my Lee Classic Cast press. I got the Maple dirt cheap direct from the mill. If you use 3/4 mdf I highly doubt you will break it" Roger. The question was what to make the top from but perhaps thoughts of the shear stregth of MDF is in order.

November 7, 2008, 07:30 PM	#18
abber Senior Member Join Date: January 15, 2008 Location: PRK Posts: 735	Formica works good In the early days, I just drilled holes in my formica-topped dinette, and used wingnuts and bolts to secure the old RS5. Even after I replaced that table, I moved the legs from the undrilled half to the drilled half, and continued to use the half-table to load under my staircase. Ah, what we won't do to get our fix.......Nowadays, I have much better equipment, and a 3 car garage to do the work in. I am set up on a standard workbench, but I had a buddy of mine laminate formica to the top for me. I guess it is what I am used to, but it works well for me. When I am not loading ammo there, I can put a scrap of carpet up on it for gun work/cleaning. Pretty simple, and handy. __________________ I ain't got no safe queens. I shoots em all...

November 7, 2008, 07:31 PM	#19
benzuncle Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2008 Location: Central Florida Posts: 357	My benchtop began as a piece of ¾in. plywood. When that became too sleazy, I added a piece of ¼in. tempered masonite. It's slick and smooth and a nice surface to wipe or brush off. When it gets too nasty, I'll replace it with another, as I did not glue it in place. Postcard size pix available for $5 each. Collect'em and trade'em with your friends.

November 7, 2008, 08:58 PM	#21
Swampghost Senior Member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: Florida, east coast Posts: 2,106	MDF is neither dense nor stable, it's compressed cardboard. OSB is also not one of my favorites. I like the solid door concept and the groove near the edge. Formica (the good stuff) would be my choice for the final surface and a 2 part epoxy to fill the groove. I'm not currently reloading but I have a sweet bench that my father built. 4X4 legs, nothing less than 2X6 in construction, the frame is all glued AND through bolted. The top is a layer of 2X8's with a cross of 2X6's and 3/4" Oak T&G flooring to top it off. Weighs about 500#'s. __________________ NRA Patron Member

November 8, 2008, 08:06 AM	#23
crazylegs Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2004 Posts: 145	I've bolted a salvaged industrial door to a salvaged steel desk. It's working very well for me. Crazylegs

November 9, 2008, 02:50 AM	#24
Inspector3711 Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2008 Location: Puget Sound Washington Posts: 1,553	Just read my post upstream..... It occured to me.... I'm literally using everything BUT the kitchen sink..... In order to COOK up the perfect load....... I think I'm finally getting there with at least two rifles so the kitchen approach is working for me...... __________________ "If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." The Dalai Llama (5/15/01, The Seattle Times) "That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there." George Orwell

November 9, 2008, 04:17 AM	#25
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Mine might well be OSB. "...it's compressed cardboard..." Nope. OSB is hardwood strands or wafers formed with under heat and pressure. MDF is soft wood fibres mixed with resin and wax then formed under pressure and heat. We call both particle board. Both are garbage just the same. Bought a cheap work bench kit($30Cdn), long ago, with a particle board top, 1" thick and 1.5" over hang on a 2 x 4 frame. Mounted the press with 1/4" bolts and washers and it broke the very first time I used the press. Whined about it at the gun club I was shooting at and one of the guys gave me the 1/4" steel a week later. Mild steel is your friend. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!