Lee Loader (mallet) 30-06 Questions

[jscottjones88]

Hey all, after reading up online for several months, I got a lee loader (mallet power) and finally got all the components I needed to start making ammo! I'm loading 125 grain Nosler ballistic tips with RL15 powder, shooting out of my savage 110 in 30-06, all brass was once fired Winchester (until today, i'd only ever shot 150 gr powerpoints through my gun)

I got about 20 rounds in, and noticed a couple cases where the bullet had fallen in - pressing on the tips of the rounds showed that over half were loose enough that I could press them down into their cases(total of 18/30 reloaded did this at some point). The resulting struggle left me with several questions, and though I've seen similar situations in other threads, i didn't seem to find the answers i was hoping for:


1) why did they fall through? since some of them were very unwilling to come out(once i got the main body of the bullet into the case neck), was I just seating the bullets too far in?


2) what would happen in OAL recommendations were exceeded?


3) if the copper jacket of a bullet is scratched from removal (very small scratches from pulling them out of the case neck, as well as deeper ones from the pliers) can it still be used? (safety/damage to my gun wise, not too worried about accuracy)


4) do i need to crimp my cases to hold the bullet tighter, or is that messing with the pressure equation?


5) how should lee loader crimped cases look? i can't see a difference before and after, and hitting them harder/more times caused shoulder/neck deformation on a few cases - a few stayed loose crimped or uncrimped, some were rock solid without, and some loose ones stayed put after crimping


the cases that worked performed great, shots that i didn't jerk were under 1" at 100 and under 4" at 200.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!

[243winxb]

1) why did they fall through? since some of them were very unwilling to come out(once i got the main body of the bullet into the case neck), was I just seating the bullets too far in? It is possible to seat the bullets to deep. The base of the bullets should be at the neck/shoulder junction. Your die neck sizes only. Hammer the case into the die so the head is even or a little below the die surface. Check to see if only one brand of brass is the problem.


2) what would happen in OAL recommendations were exceeded? If the OAL is to long, the bullet will contact the rifling and the round may not chamber. Not common on a factory rifle.


3) if the copper jacket of a bullet is scratched from removal (very small scratches from pulling them out of the case neck, as well as deeper ones from the pliers) can it still be used? (safety/damage to my gun wise, not too worried about accuracy) I have used them without harm. The base of the bullet must not be dammaged for accuracy.


4) do i need to crimp my cases to hold the bullet tighter, or is that messing with the pressure equation? No crimp needed.


5) how should lee loader crimped cases look? i can't see a difference before and after, and hitting them harder/more times caused shoulder/neck deformation on a few cases - a few stayed loose crimped or uncrimped, some were rock solid without, and some loose ones stayed put after crimping A crimp that is to hard may make the bullets loose.
This link may help answer some other questions, if you have any. Hope this helps. http://leeprecision.net/support/inde...roduct-support

[jscottjones88]

Thanks so much! I raised the seating height a bit, and was able to reload 30 that are all really secure. Two were still loose, but I'm gonna try re-resizing those cases.

It sounds like I don't have much to worry about, but I'm attaching some pictures anyways -

These are the worst of the scratched bullets


This is some case damage that I think came from trying too hard to crimp bullets in place



And here are some once fired (factory load) brass - pretty much all my brass looks like this, and I can't tell if it's a headspace problem or not

[243winxb]

Your pulled bullets are ok to shoot. Factory fired brass looks normal. Headspace is not a problem as the Lee loader only neck sizes. Soon or later, your brass will need full length sizing, when they get hard to chamber. If you must crimp for an auto loader rifle, its best if the bullets have a cannelure to crimp into.

[mkl]

You will get less scratching on the bullet if you chamfer the case mouth on the inside. This is a one time operation; the chamfer will stay until you trim the case. Trimming may be necessary after you have used the case several times and it grows to over the maximum over all length.

This one will work, although there are better ones on the market for more dollars.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389...deburring-tool

[mkl]

One last suggestion.

Read the first sentence in your instructions under "Crimping bullets."

Note it says "..for tubular magazine guns."

Your Savage 110 is not a tubular magazine gun.

As 243winxb said, your crimping may actually be loosening the bullet instead of making it tighter.

[Blindstitch]

Besides the projectiles aren't cannulared so no need for a crimp.

[RC20]

I had one of those Lee mallet things years back

My opinion its the worst and crudest thing ever invented and I would never buy or use one again (or desperate like the world had ended)

They are just brutal on brass. I think I got 3 reloads on my 44 magnum brass and they split (forget what the exact failure mode, it was 45 years ago or longer, but the brass was destroyed) My brother had one for 357 and same thing.

Hand press is one option or a bench press is another and I think better for 30-06. You can get used equipment for a good price.

I know space can be an issue but I re-loaded in a tiny closet in a trailer no more than 10 feet long. It took a bit of organization but worked good.

Bench press should be the heavy Rock Chucker or equal, not the Rock Chuck Junior for a full sized case like 30-06 (and I don't know how the hand press does in that caliber but it must be hard on the hands)

I had a RCBS Jr that worked fine for pistol ammo but the Sr or whatever the heavy one is made the process not a struggle for 7mm and 30-06.

[std7mag]

Have used the Lee Loader for my 7mm Rem Mag, before I got the turret press.

Press doesn't need to be RCBS, Redding, Lee, or any other manufacturer. Get what you like and can afford.

Also, while some people like the fact that some presses out there are built like German Panzer tanks, it doesn't need to be for simple reloading. If you have to horse on the handle, your doing something wrong...

[RC20]

Maybe from the days of sticky lubes.

I do like my heavy duty one and got it so long ago it was probably 50 or less.

Agreed on the not having to be RCBS but that is the one I am used to and know it has two different hefts and I do like the heavier one.

Still have and use the light one for seating

[Geezerbiker]

Years ago I used the Lee Wackamole loader to load 7.7mm Arisaka rounds. It worked well but sometimes I'd set off a primer so I took to priming outside.

I only tried crimping once and it didn't work well so I didn't try it again. I bought a set of dies later on for the 7.7 after I had already started using a RCBS press for .30-06. I gave the Lee Loader away and I suppose it worked awhile longer for the guy I gave it to. He's since passed on so I suppose his sons have it now...

Tony

[Hook686]

I use the Lee Hand Press for my 30-06 reloading at use the Lee Collet die. It only neck sizes so the reloading strength is not the the 25 pounds of force needed for a full case resize. The Collet die does not crimp. I am partial to a taper crimp after I reload so I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die after I have reloaded the round.

[pathdoc]

Some will advocate crimping in hunting ammo for bolt guns, and for self loaders, but only for bullets with a cannelure. I have tried it, but it didn't do anything for accuracy, and I 've never tried it in the Lee loader (which I've used with good results in .303 British and never yet set a primer off in several hundred rounds.), seems like too much art and not sufficiently reproducible.

[Old Stony]

I'd venture to say that many of us old geezers started with a Lee loader and a mallet. I started many, many years ago with one and shot many deer, antelope and prairie dogs with the ammo before moving on to more modern methods.
I agree, for your application no crimp is needed, and if you find your correct seating depth you should be okay.
I have seen some really good groups shot using Lee loaders while using the same brass over and over and loading at a shooting bench.
There is an interesting video out there somewhere showing Lee himself loading with one and how easy it is once you master it. He could load one pretty quick!

[mikld]

When in doubt, measure! Measure the diameter of the bullets that are not held tight (wouldn't be the first time someone picked up a lot of bullets too small). If you can, measure the case neck ID. Tap a case into the die so the case head is flush. Remove the case with no further work. See if the bullet is a tight fit. You need to locate where the problem happens.

I have 5 Lee Loaders and I think they are the best thing to come along since sliced baloney (mebbe they came first though!). I'll pull one out whenever I feel "retro" or don't want to set up a press. I started with one in .38 Special in '69 and made up mebbe 1,000 rounds before I moved to a single stage. I have one for .44 Mag. that produces ammo just as good (and as long lasting) as any I reload on one of my presses with Hornady and/or Lee dies. A Lee Loader is a good teaching tool (teaches how to reload, not operate a press) 'cause each step is done individually, simply, and out in the "open". I'd say that Lee Loaders are so simple, that 99% of of the problems are operator error...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc