Win 22-250 tight bolt

CS86 · March 9, 2012, 12:00 AM

I've reloaded and shot some ammo in my dads Winchester 22-250 and ran into something that was different than the factory loads. I noticed that I was having trouble getting the bolt closed. So I took some cases back out after I chambered them to examine and noticed pressure marks on the back of the casing. I ended up shooting the test loads and everything looked fine other than the extra pressure with the bolt.

Today I full length sized and trimmed some brass to reload again. before loading anything I took the blank case and tried to feed it in the gun. The same thing happened. I was wondering if I didn't have the die down far enough to press the shoulder back to the proper place. So i checked and I was all the way down to the shell plate. I ended up giving it a little more of a turn. It made the die put more pressure on the plate. I re sized a few of them and tried it in the gun again, but it still didn't fix the problem.

I'm using the Hornady lock and load AP and there die set. Could there be a problem with the die? What else should I check or try?

mrawesome22 · March 9, 2012, 12:24 AM

Keep turning the die down 1/8 turn at a time until they chamber.

Or you can get gauges that will tell you exactly what is going on.

CS86 · March 9, 2012, 10:01 AM

I feel like I am as far down as I can go. With the shell plate up I screwed the die all the way down. Then I screwed it down some more after I lowered the shell plate. Then without a shell in the plate, I cycle the press all the way up and there is a fare amount of pressure that you can feel between the shell plate and die. I wouldn't think there would be any benefit to go more and I didn't want to ruin something.

243winxb · March 9, 2012, 10:20 AM

Quote:

noticed pressure marks on the back of the casing.

If the web area has expanded from to hot of a load, this can cause drag. The FL die does not size the web area. Also make sure the shell plate is as tight as possible. Just loose enought to turn.

CS86 · March 9, 2012, 10:31 AM

What do you mean by the web area? Sorry I'm still new to reloading and trying to get all the lingo down. Pretty much all of the cases that I am trynig to size are from factory loads so wouldn't think they would be excessivly hot. every single sized case is chambering tight. I was wondering if I should try and trim one shorter that the specified trim length in the book to see if that may be an issue.

243winxb · March 9, 2012, 10:47 AM

The web should not be the problem then, using factory loads. Adjust the shell plate, if that does not help, check the thickness of the shell plate. Normal for a shell holder is .125" +/- .001" Shell plates can be much worse. This thickness is not a problem with pistol, only bottle neck rifle cartridges that headspace on the shoulder. You will find photos here on how to measure the shell plate. http://www.photobucket.com/joe1944usa

CS86 · March 9, 2012, 10:59 AM

Are you saying my shell plate could be too thick not allowing my die to go far enough down?

243winxb · March 9, 2012, 11:06 AM

Yes, to thick. Also, lube the inside of the necks, so the expander does not pull the shoulder forward when FL sizing.

Wyoredman · March 9, 2012, 11:33 AM

I have this same problem when reloading nickel plated rifle brass. Seem the nickle needs more force than plain brass and I need to turn the die down 1/4 turn more than with regular brass. Is your brass nickle plated?

tom234 · March 9, 2012, 01:10 PM

Any problem whatsoever with factory loaded ammo ?

mrawesome22 · March 9, 2012, 02:04 PM

The die instructions will tell you to go in 1 and a quarter turn past contact with the shell plate. Unless you are at or past this, you probably just need to turn the die in a little more.

CS86 · March 9, 2012, 02:10 PM

I haven't had pressure when closing the bolt on factory ammo. I will check the thickness of plate and try and turn the die down more when I get a chance and see if I can sold the problem. Thanks for all the help.

Is there any recommendation for lubing the inside of the neck? Is there a thicker lube that I can dip the head in or something?

243winxb · March 9, 2012, 02:30 PM

The RCBS lube & pad with a nylon brush is what i use. Checking the thickness of the Dillon shell plate. Each station may be a different thickness.

CS86 · March 10, 2012, 11:33 PM

I checked out the shell plate thickness the other night and I ended up with .126 on some and .127 on others working my way around the seats on the shell plate. I readjusted the die so that once I came in contact with the shell plate I went another full turn down. The other thing I made sure of was lubing the inside of the shell necks along with the rest of the shell. It seems like a lot of pressure on the press other than the casing, but in all it worked. I got the cases to load into the gun without using extra force to get the bolt down.

mrawesome22 · March 11, 2012, 01:10 AM

Now you can fine tune it if you want.

Start backing the die back out in small increments until they start chambering hard again. At this point, start turning the die back in 1/16 turns at a time until they chamber freely.

This will ensure a great fit to the rifles chamber, and prevent over working the brass which drastically reduces the chance of case head separations.

243winxb · March 11, 2012, 09:17 AM

The Hornady lock-n-load ap progressive press might have some flex in it when FL sizing. Over at ar15.com there are 2 different areas possibly to look at. 1. A shim between the ram & sub plate. 2. A shim at the L N L bushing. I have not looked into this, as i dont have Hornady. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/34...d_.html&page=1 And another> metal shim> http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/34..._issue___.html

March 9, 2012, 12:00 AM	#1
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	Win 22-250 tight bolt I've reloaded and shot some ammo in my dads Winchester 22-250 and ran into something that was different than the factory loads. I noticed that I was having trouble getting the bolt closed. So I took some cases back out after I chambered them to examine and noticed pressure marks on the back of the casing. I ended up shooting the test loads and everything looked fine other than the extra pressure with the bolt. Today I full length sized and trimmed some brass to reload again. before loading anything I took the blank case and tried to feed it in the gun. The same thing happened. I was wondering if I didn't have the die down far enough to press the shoulder back to the proper place. So i checked and I was all the way down to the shell plate. I ended up giving it a little more of a turn. It made the die put more pressure on the plate. I re sized a few of them and tried it in the gun again, but it still didn't fix the problem. I'm using the Hornady lock and load AP and there die set. Could there be a problem with the die? What else should I check or try?

March 9, 2012, 11:33 AM	#9
Wyoredman Senior Member Join Date: September 6, 2011 Location: Wyoming Posts: 1,350	I have this same problem when reloading nickel plated rifle brass. Seem the nickle needs more force than plain brass and I need to turn the die down 1/4 turn more than with regular brass. Is your brass nickle plated? __________________ Go Pokes! Go Rams!

March 9, 2012, 02:30 PM	#13
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,730	The RCBS lube & pad with a nylon brush is what i use. Checking the thickness of the Dillon shell plate. Each station may be a different thickness. Last edited by 243winxb; March 9, 2012 at 07:56 PM. Reason: remove photo

March 11, 2012, 09:17 AM	#16
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,730	Hornady lock-n-load ap progressive press- Shim The Hornady lock-n-load ap progressive press might have some flex in it when FL sizing. Over at ar15.com there are 2 different areas possibly to look at. 1. A shim between the ram & sub plate. 2. A shim at the L N L bushing. I have not looked into this, as i dont have Hornady. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/34...d_.html&page=1 And another> metal shim> http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/34..._issue___.html

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March 9, 2012, 12:24 AM	#2
mrawesome22 Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2005 Location: Ohio, Appalachia's foothills. Posts: 3,779	Keep turning the die down 1/8 turn at a time until they chamber. Or you can get gauges that will tell you exactly what is going on.

March 9, 2012, 10:01 AM	#3
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	I feel like I am as far down as I can go. With the shell plate up I screwed the die all the way down. Then I screwed it down some more after I lowered the shell plate. Then without a shell in the plate, I cycle the press all the way up and there is a fare amount of pressure that you can feel between the shell plate and die. I wouldn't think there would be any benefit to go more and I didn't want to ruin something.

March 9, 2012, 10:31 AM	#5
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	What do you mean by the web area? Sorry I'm still new to reloading and trying to get all the lingo down. Pretty much all of the cases that I am trynig to size are from factory loads so wouldn't think they would be excessivly hot. every single sized case is chambering tight. I was wondering if I should try and trim one shorter that the specified trim length in the book to see if that may be an issue.

March 9, 2012, 10:47 AM	#6
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,730	The web should not be the problem then, using factory loads. Adjust the shell plate, if that does not help, check the thickness of the shell plate. Normal for a shell holder is .125" +/- .001" Shell plates can be much worse. This thickness is not a problem with pistol, only bottle neck rifle cartridges that headspace on the shoulder. You will find photos here on how to measure the shell plate. http://www.photobucket.com/joe1944usa

March 9, 2012, 10:59 AM	#7
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	Are you saying my shell plate could be too thick not allowing my die to go far enough down?

March 9, 2012, 11:06 AM	#8
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,730	Yes, to thick. Also, lube the inside of the necks, so the expander does not pull the shoulder forward when FL sizing.

March 9, 2012, 01:10 PM	#10
tom234 Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 753	Any problem whatsoever with factory loaded ammo ?

March 9, 2012, 02:04 PM	#11
mrawesome22 Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2005 Location: Ohio, Appalachia's foothills. Posts: 3,779	The die instructions will tell you to go in 1 and a quarter turn past contact with the shell plate. Unless you are at or past this, you probably just need to turn the die in a little more.

March 9, 2012, 02:10 PM	#12
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	I haven't had pressure when closing the bolt on factory ammo. I will check the thickness of plate and try and turn the die down more when I get a chance and see if I can sold the problem. Thanks for all the help. Is there any recommendation for lubing the inside of the neck? Is there a thicker lube that I can dip the head in or something?

March 10, 2012, 11:33 PM	#14
CS86 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2012 Location: South Dakota Posts: 224	I checked out the shell plate thickness the other night and I ended up with .126 on some and .127 on others working my way around the seats on the shell plate. I readjusted the die so that once I came in contact with the shell plate I went another full turn down. The other thing I made sure of was lubing the inside of the shell necks along with the rest of the shell. It seems like a lot of pressure on the press other than the casing, but in all it worked. I got the cases to load into the gun without using extra force to get the bolt down.

March 11, 2012, 01:10 AM	#15
mrawesome22 Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2005 Location: Ohio, Appalachia's foothills. Posts: 3,779	Now you can fine tune it if you want. Start backing the die back out in small increments until they start chambering hard again. At this point, start turning the die back in 1/16 turns at a time until they chamber freely. This will ensure a great fit to the rifles chamber, and prevent over working the brass which drastically reduces the chance of case head separations.