February 24, 2015, 01:29 PM | #1 |
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Garand not cycling
I have a Garand that will not cycle. I have replace the operating spring with a new one from Wolf. This did not help. I checked the diameters of the gas piston and cylinder, it seemed OK. I read that the parts need to be greased. Will this not allow the bolt to move to the rear. It seems to operate manually so it is not jammed. I put on a new Boyd s walnut stock and fit it so the operating rod did not stick anywhere with the spring removed.
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February 24, 2015, 01:55 PM | #2 |
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I'm having cycling issues, too. I had a few short-strokes when the gun was new, but then no issues for a few hundred rounds, so I attributed it to "break in". But, the last time I went to the range, I was getting one short stroke per clip.
My gun has a Boyd's stock, and I discovered that it was rubbing on both the top and bottom of the external part of the op rod. My piston is iffy, seeming to be both too small, and too out of round, but could it wear-out in only 400-500 rounds? I did a lot of relieving of the rear handguard, removed some material from the stock, and it appears that there's no other, unintended rubbing, so we'll see. Grease is recommended, but some contend that the only reason is because oils could not pass the water wash-off tests from the 1930s, and unless you shoot in a monsoon, oil is fine. I use nothing but grease, recently switching to Mobil 1. It's bright red, so you can tell when you have enough or too much; one source says if you applied so much that you can see that it's red, you've used too much. Again, we'll see.
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February 24, 2015, 08:02 PM | #3 |
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Wolff op rod springs are extra power and are known for causing short stroking with some ammo
Get a op rod spring from Orion 7 or Garand Gear What tools did you use to gage the gas cylinder and op rod piston? Make sure gas screw is not cracked (remove and look at back) and make sure it is installed tightly |
February 24, 2015, 08:07 PM | #4 |
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Check to insure that the gas system is properly seated and the plug is tight.
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February 24, 2015, 08:09 PM | #5 |
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Listen to Orlando and ditch the extra power Wolff.
Could you have a grenade launching plug and the check valve is stuck open? Is the entire gas system tight and in spec? And is the gas port in the barrel plugged up? |
February 24, 2015, 08:42 PM | #6 |
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Make sure the gas plug is not an adjustable (will have an Allen screw in the center of the plug). Where did you get the rifle?
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February 24, 2015, 09:32 PM | #7 |
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Gauge or measure the barrel bearings, the part of the barrel the gas cylinder slips on over, and the cylinder ID. If there is a gap between the barrel and the cylinder, enough gas can escape to cause short stroking. Some less than honest gun dealers see a worn barrel and cover up by polishing the bearings with emery cloth so the area looks nice and new.
I would also suggest having someone familiar with the M1 look the rifle over. Many of the ones on the market today (CMP excepted) have been worked over (including cut and weld receivers) with out-of-spec and poor quality parts. Jim |
February 24, 2015, 10:21 PM | #8 |
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It sounds like you haven't greased it yet. Buy a tube of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease at any automotive supply store then check GarandGear.com for their how-to on where and how to grease. Only a couple places where you should use oil. Everywhere else is grease. Brownells also has a good four part video tutorial on disassembly, cleaning, lubricating and reassembling the M1 Garand.
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February 25, 2015, 12:22 AM | #9 |
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I took my gas cylinder off the barrel and was surprised to find the port is actually square. It had so much crud the hole was oval and half the normal size. I still get live round jams though so it's probably something else.
BTW what ammo are you using? |
February 25, 2015, 12:02 PM | #10 |
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Ammo could be a factor. Bent op rod maybe? For what it's worth I've seen some where the original gas block is basically falling off the gun and needs some loctite or to be replaced.
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February 25, 2015, 12:30 PM | #11 |
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Where did you get the gun? Did it work before you changed the parts out? Also what ammo are you using?
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February 25, 2015, 03:09 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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February 25, 2015, 05:30 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
I hate to ask, but if not is is the gas turned on? Can the Garand turn gas on/off like an M1a/M-14?
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February 25, 2015, 05:43 PM | #14 |
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NO
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February 26, 2015, 12:51 AM | #15 |
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Late M1 gas cylinder lock screws have a valve that can be opened by the grenade launcher to keep the extra pressure from damaging the rifle, but unless the valve is stuck open or missing, it should have no effect on normal operation.
Jim |
February 26, 2015, 10:57 AM | #16 |
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Oh well, just a thought.
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February 28, 2015, 10:12 PM | #17 |
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Non operating Garand
You didn't elaborate on exactly what was not functioning. Assuming that it does not extract fired case the likely problem is the Gas System . The button on the end of the op rod should be at least .528, any smaller is worn out . Assemble rifle with plug out. With rifle in battery (Bolt closed) the face of the button on the rod should be at least .80 in measured from the face of the lock ring. If it is less than .80 give the lock ring another turn . If it is way more back it out until it is as close to .80 w/o going under The poppet valve is east to clean. Take a rod and push it in the plug spray with solvent . If you still have problems it is most likely a gas cylinder . Gas cylinders are about half the price of a cylinder gauge.
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February 28, 2015, 11:58 PM | #18 |
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Cycling of a semi auto consists of 2 parts; extraction/ejection and feeding. Which part doesn't work? What exactly happens when it doesn't work?
-TL |
March 1, 2015, 03:33 AM | #19 |
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There is some bad info given out here. A in spec op rod piston measures between 5260" - .5250 Also forget about what the other poster is saying about measuring were the button is in the gas cylinder. The gas port is rectangle and is impossible to get cylnder so far backit wont function.
You need to use a micrometer to measure the piston and gage the gas cylinder. You can buy a set of PIN gages for around $15- $20 |
March 1, 2015, 10:01 AM | #20 |
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Garand
I stand corrected on the piston diameter and that is a good reason old people should look things up instead of trusting their memory .
However it is definitely possible to either screw the cylinder not far enough or too far that the gas port on the barrel is not lined up with the hole in the cylinder. Brownells Gas Cyl Gauge $125 , lowest priced Cyl on Ebay $62 Jerry Kuhnhausen's book . Shop Manual will show you exactly how far back the Gas piston must be measured from the face of the locking ring. Last edited by Howard31; March 1, 2015 at 10:50 AM. |
March 1, 2015, 03:07 PM | #21 |
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A Garand that will not cycle is a gas issue. Assuming the ammo is good, check that the gas tube is not covering the gas hole.
Not lubing correctly will not stop it functioning. TM-23-5 and FM-9-1275 are here. Isn't an 'Ordanance' manual though. Fulton can't spell. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/ "...Can the Garand turn gas on/off..." No.
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March 1, 2015, 03:15 PM | #22 |
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March 1, 2015, 03:28 PM | #23 |
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There is a bevel on the gas lock, a properly fitting lock will bear on the shoulder on the barrel. Impossible for the gas port not to line up. The hole on the cylinder is longer than the gas port on the barrel for this reason
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