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May 24, 2013, 10:50 PM | #1 |
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Just starting to reload ammo, Give me the do's and don'ts!
I'm 18 years old and just starting to get into reloading. I have a .243 that I will reload ammo for. I just bought a rcbs master supreme reloading kit and also rcbs 2 die set and a shell holder. I think the only thing I don't have is a case trimmer. I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos on how people are reloading their ammo. Give me some helpful info that I should know.
1. Should I lightly lube the inside of the case before I deprime and resize it? 2. Do I need to buy a die to expand the case so the bullet will seat the right way? 3. I won't be reloading a ton of ammo so I don't need a super fast trimmer, so what's a good case trimmer that's pretty cheap, maybe under 50 bucks? 5. Give me as much info as possible!!! |
May 24, 2013, 11:23 PM | #2 |
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This book: "The ABCs of Reloading" is an excellent reference for newcomers to reloading.
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May 24, 2013, 11:49 PM | #3 |
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The Manual recommended above is a good one, get it as soon as you can. Also, keep building a library of reloading manuals, Speer, Hornady, Lee, etc., the more knowledge you have, the better you get.
Yes, you need to lube the inside of the case neck, especially with bottleneck rifle rounds. A straight walled case will be flared a bit, to assist in seating the bullet. Your press will do the work of seating the bullet, though, you just need to get it on top of the mouth of the case and let the die work. The little RCBS trimmer is a good one for me, they all work. You can set up a Forstner drill bit in a drill press with a good stop feature, that works, too, if you have that already. I've seen one guy just use a bench grinder, he mounted a flange on the side, a piece of drilled wood to the flange, then pressed the cartridge case against the spinning grinder wheel through the drilled wood, knocked a few thousandths off, and there it was. Do stock up on brass and inspect it, and don't be afraid to scrap anything you don't like the looks of, that 15-cent case is not worth your eyesight or a hand when you fire the round later. Do keep your reloading area clean, well lit, and organized. Wear eye protection when reloading. Have a fire extinguisher in the room. Put the top on the powder can and put it away before doing anything else. Do inspect each round at each step, a quick look in the case will tell you if a round is double-charged or short-charged, etc., etc., and take apart a few of your nice new reloads at random and check them for charge on the scale, then reassemble once you know you're good. Always start with less than the published maximum load, and never, ever, ever, exceed the maximum, no matter what anyone else tells you. Most shooters who reload are 5 or 10% below the maximum, for safety, comfortable recoil, barrel life, etc. |
May 25, 2013, 12:52 AM | #4 |
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The kit you purchased should have the latest Speer reloading manual in it. Read the how to section twice before unpacking the rest of the kit. Refer back to the manual if you have any doubt as to the next step or any details of a step. As stated above, read more than one manual.
Use load data specific to the bullet you are loading. There are more factors to pressure than just bullet weight. The thickness of the jacket or its alloy content can cause higher pressure. And reduce charges when you get new powder ( even when it is the same brand ) and work up new loads. Accuracy is more important than velocity. When accuracy drops off use the charge that gives good accuracy. Keep good notes of charge weight and bullet loaded, along with group sizes. You will remember the details for a week, then it starts to get fuzzy. Good notes save time and money.
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May 25, 2013, 01:53 AM | #5 |
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go slow. do things multiple times. if something doesnt seem right, proper, or you just get the heeby jeebies, take it apart.
if you know that if you drink a coffee, and need to poop 20 minutes later, dont drink coffee right before you start measuring out powder charges, or setting up dies and the like. if you walk away during a step, start it over again. nothing like putting a case back in the 'empty rack', and coming back from a tinkle and saying "hey whys the powder overlfowing" as you try to double charge the case you put in the wrong bin. there is no stupid question if its honestly asked. if your going to ask the same qustion every day to everybody you know you shouldnt be playing with something that can rearrange your head. |
May 25, 2013, 02:05 AM | #6 |
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Reloading manuals have "how to" chapters in addition to load data. You will need both.
These manuals are carefully edited by manufacturers concerned about liability, unlike some of the free videos and data you can find on the Internet. Think of a reloading manual as a foundation to build on, adding Internet info after the basics are learned. (That way, you can spot bogus or questionable practice. If you start with the Internet, you are essentially building without a foundation.) The "get a manual" recommendations aren't lazy or rude. There is just too much information to convey. After reading a reloading manual's how-to chapters, come back and ask specific questions.
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May 25, 2013, 05:06 AM | #7 |
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Read everything you can, then read some more, then read it again. Until you have the ability to explain the process to someone else. Remember YouTube is just the authors opinion and may or may not be the right way to do it.
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May 25, 2013, 06:23 AM | #8 |
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Check out ammosmith instructional videos on youtube.com. Somebody mentioned a reloading manual already.
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May 25, 2013, 06:29 AM | #9 |
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Always wear eye protection; always.
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May 25, 2013, 07:30 AM | #10 |
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The Speer book should come with your press. I have read mine several times and often use it as one of the sources to working up a new load. Reading other manuals mentioned just adds to your knowledge. You are probably going to find things in each manual you didn't see before or just to reinforce what you already know from the Speer manual.
It is best to work without distractions. If you are having trouble focusing on the task at hand, it is better to stop and do it later rather than continue and possibly make a mistake. Eye protection while reloading should be used. If something goes wrong during the reloading process (and it can) you most likely are going to get an eye injury and possibly hand injuries. It is very difficult to hit a target shooting if you can't see. You can shoot even if you are deaf. Many hand injuries can be overcome in one way or another. Your eyesight is always needed. Just one oops can ruin your life. Something as simple as wearing eye protection may allow you the chance to not get a serious eye injury. One thing I remember from a long time ago was trying to load the hottest ammo possible. Pretty dumb now that I think of it. My accuracy was not good with those hot loads. The hot loads did more damage to my guns in a short time too. An accurate safe range load is much better and doesn't cause extreme wear on the gun it is shot from. If you need a hotter load most likely you really need a different caliber to do the job right. When working up any load new to you, don't load more than just a few to test. It is a real pain to have to take apart a lot of rounds because they just don't work well. |
May 25, 2013, 07:47 AM | #11 |
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I have been reading the speer manual that came with the kit, is Loaddata.com worth the $30 subscription or should i order another book? Also if two manuals have different maximum's for the exact same bullet should i average the two out or just go with the lower number?
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May 25, 2013, 08:08 AM | #12 |
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Buy as many manuals as you can afford, you can never have to many.
Don't forget to check out all the Free online data available from the powder manufacturers. http://www.accuratepowder.com/ http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp http://www.ramshot.com/ http://www.lapua.com/upload/download...10_2012eng.pdf http://www.alliantpowder.com/ You will need to purchase a Caliper. |
May 25, 2013, 08:35 AM | #13 |
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DO have fun.
DON'T blow your face off.
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May 25, 2013, 09:22 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Nice kit. It will get you started. IMHO, I wouldn't even start(,but you could start now with just calipers) before I bought: Calipers - dial or electric - Mitutoyo Ebay is a good source. This is for OAL and other measurements which are required for case sorting and ensuring safety. The manual should clarify their use. A Powder Trickler - RCBS Frankly, this is not needed, but it is so much easier than trying for a pinch or trickling out of a spoon. Set the thrower up about .5 gr light. Then set the trickler up over the scale pan and twist to until it reads 0. A Case Trimmer - Wilson I like the Wilson. I have the old carbon steel one which was much cheaper, but still this system is the best, IMO because it cuts the brass with low axial force and the case mouth will be exactly square to the case body axis. This is key IMO for crimp and accuracy. A Case prep kit - Lyman plus a drill of your own works well. Just makes things like primer pocket cleaning, case chamfering/deburring and manual neck cleaning easier. Case Tumbler - link Not needed, but makes case cleaning easy. 1) Yes, I do by dipping 1 in 5 in Hornady LNL lube tub. I also use this on the pad. It tumbles off easily. 2) No, not for bottleneck cases. They are expanded in the FL die. 3) Read FAQ's on this forum and others. They offer a good view of reloading from experienced handloaders. Youtube is OK, but if something looks wrong, it probably is. Ask here if you have questions before trying it yourself. I am willing to help. . .PM me. |
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May 25, 2013, 09:42 AM | #15 |
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As a relatively new reloader myself, here's how I got started. Once I obtained all the equipment I studied, studied, and studied someone. I had all my stuff set up MONTHS before I loaded my first round.
I gained a TON of information from this forum, youtube, and obtained as many loading books as possible. The ABC's of reloading is a good one to learn the basics and really understand what is taking place, it however does not contain any load data, so you'll still need at minimum two good loading manuals. I have the Hornady (8th edition I believe) and a Speer. For me, the key was taking my time. I honestly went overboard with learning as much as possible before starting, however when it came time to load the first batch, I felt like I had been doing it for years. This may seem like common sense, but all the people I read about having problems could have been avoided if they just did more research before starting. As far as equipment goes, I learned the hard way, don't buy the cheep stuff. I ended up buying twice on a lot of items. If you don't have the funds to buy decent gear wait a few months, save up and buy once. While your waiting to put some money together you can study! I purchased the Hornady Classic kit, and replaced a good majority of the items in the kit. Good luck sir, it's a very fun hobby. I think I enjoy loading as much as shooting. |
May 25, 2013, 10:22 AM | #16 |
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I would not spend the $30 on Load Data, you'll get enough information from the manuals and other reloaders to keep you busy.
Two different manuals sometimes show different load data for the same bullet weight due to several reasons : bullet length, tail shape, plating thickness, and make of bullet, and perhaps the maker of the brass that was used. As a rule of thumb, use the lower of the two unless you have the exact bullet referenced in the hotter manual, i.e., the Sierra 150-grain boat-tailed hollowpoint in the Sierra Manual. |
May 25, 2013, 10:36 AM | #17 |
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A couple of things I have learned along the way.
When you buy brass, get one brand. I don't have a preference as to brands, but I don't like to segregate and sort and fiddle around with different loads for different brass. Hornady brass has less case capacity than RP and it will mess with your head. If you are going to shoot a couple hundred rounds to work up a good load, just buy a bag of 100 cases and use them.
Learn about headspace. There are a couple of members here than can help you a lot. I finally got that concept thru my thick head after fighting things for a few years, and does it ever help. I wasted a heck of a lot of time and good shots using neck sized cases that were not correct headspace. Full Length sizing has several advantages, and if you get the dies set right, you will gain much from this process. The first sign that head space is not right will be difficulty closing the bolt on reloaded ammo. Don't let anything interrupt you during a process. This has been mentioned above, but it is very important. You can blow things up if a mistake is made. So even though hand loading is considered a safe activity, it requires full attention to detail and caution. My other half likes to call me on the cell phone or come to the man cave and update me on stuff. I have had to kind of get stern with her, that unless she has to make a trip to the emergency room or needs help holding off a burglar, things can wait. Well---most things. Have fun! |
May 25, 2013, 10:50 AM | #18 |
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I agree with all the above and +1 to always wear eye protection and would like to add that while annoying, also ALWAYS wear ear protection.
I have a friend that worked as a drill sergeant in the marines. She misses a lot of conversations unless you tap her on the shoulder first, when I asked her about it she said she took out her earplugs a few times during live fire drills and that's all it took. I don't want to lose even the smallest bit of hearing to a hobby, no matter how addicting it is. |
May 25, 2013, 11:47 AM | #19 |
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Don't be in a hurry and don't be so egotistical to not take the advice of others that have 5, 10, 20, or 50 plus years of reloading under their belt.
Read, re-read and ask questions here. Best of luck |
May 25, 2013, 12:17 PM | #20 | |
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May 25, 2013, 12:25 PM | #21 |
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When I find conflicting data I try to see why there is a difference. It might be the bullet, case, primer, seating depth, or barrel used in testing. These things can make a difference. Also there are two different methods often used to measure pressure. Some companies tend to stay a little on the low side for legal reasons as well. I will try to find at least one more published data source if I think the difference in the first two sources varies too much. Often the third source will reflect data closer to one than the other. When in doubt just go with the lower powder amounts and work up slowly. Depending on the powder and caliber you might have to double check to see if the source is using standard primers or magnum primers. Some primers say on the box they will work as both. Those are probably hotter than standard primers from a different manufacture. They can still be used but you have to watch things closer as you approach the upper end of a load.
I have noticed so far you have been receiving a lot of good information. I hope you do take what these people have said to heart. |
May 25, 2013, 05:08 PM | #22 |
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You're off to a great start with that kit and you've gotten some good advice. Even after 35 yrs of reloading I still read a new manual now and then, the manual with your kit is a good starting place. You shouldn't need an expander die for jacketed rifle bullets and bottleneck cases can be fired a few times before trimming, I like the Lee Zip Trim and their trimming setup. Good price for a beginner too.
A decent dial caliper will be useful as well.
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May 25, 2013, 08:13 PM | #23 |
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the Rules
Test then know
....in MY gun.... ....but NOT always....
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May 25, 2013, 11:02 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for all the info! What do the collets and the pilots mean for a case trimmer? Can someone explain the process?
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May 25, 2013, 11:41 PM | #25 |
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Not sure exactly what you mean but case trimming involves supporting the case neck and trimming to length. I have used the RCBS lathe type trimmer and currently use the Lee trimmer and the Lee Zip Trim with very acceptable results. High volume reloaders often use a motorized system that indexes off the case neck but I'm not familiar with that method. Apparently it works.
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