S&W 66 bolt engagement

Lavan · June 29, 2004, 11:24 PM

My 66 is a .....bit..... sloppy in battery. Wondering..... seems like the bolt engagement in the cylinder cut is not real deep.
Could the depth of the engagement have any effect on lockup in battery?

IF.. I stoned the TOP ONLY of the part of the bolt that is INSIDE the frame (NOT the top of the bolt that engages the cyl) would it allow the bolt to rise a bit further in the frame?

It ....seems..... that if I don't touch the lower part of the bolt notch (inside) where the trigger engages it to pull it down and out of lockup, then no matter how high the bolt rode, it would still pull it completely out of engagement so it would not drag on the cyl .....or..... stay too high to allow it to revolve.

Is this correct?

Can I stone the internal part of the bolt to get more engagement in the cyl notches?

Tom2 · July 19, 2004, 07:23 PM

How well does the stop spring back to full height when you push it down? Mine only extends 1/16" above the frame. It has a little side to side play in the frame, but does not seem to affect cylinder play badly. I can wiggle the cylinder slightly, but not much. Maybe you should check for dirt or debris in the frame or in the notches not letting it come up fully. Or weakish spring action. If you take it out of the gun, see how well it fits in the notches by hand. Maybe it or the notches is burred and cannot seat properly. Push the front of the cylinder back and forth and see if the crane moves away from the frame much. That can aggravate rotation problems too. Has it had alot of rounds thru it? Maybe it needs an overall tuneup for stretched parts.

Dfariswheel · July 19, 2004, 09:28 PM

Unless you have a SPECIFIC problem with the gun (out of time, failing to lock up, failing to stay locked, etc) DO NOT alter the bolt or any other part.

All you will do is ruin the part, and have to have a pro repair it.

I you'd like to check your S&W for proper adjustment and operation, invest a few bucks in a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The S&W Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual".

This should be required equipment for every S&W revolver owner, whether you want to work on it or not.

It's absolutely jammed with the best info on S&W inspection, disassembly, adjustment, and gunsmith repair there is available.

You can buy a copy from Brownell's, Midway, and most on-line and local book sellers.

Rule #ONE for gun owners: NEVER alter any part of a firearm unless you KNOW there's a problem, precisely WHAT the problem is, and exactly HOW to fix it.

Gunsmith's get a LOT of business from people who "suspect" there might be a problem, and think they know how to fix it.

Buy the book, it's money well spent.

June 29, 2004, 11:24 PM	#1
Lavan Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1999 Location: California Posts: 2,716	S&W 66 bolt engagement My 66 is a .....bit..... sloppy in battery. Wondering..... seems like the bolt engagement in the cylinder cut is not real deep. Could the depth of the engagement have any effect on lockup in battery? IF.. I stoned the TOP ONLY of the part of the bolt that is INSIDE the frame (NOT the top of the bolt that engages the cyl) would it allow the bolt to rise a bit further in the frame? It ....seems..... that if I don't touch the lower part of the bolt notch (inside) where the trigger engages it to pull it down and out of lockup, then no matter how high the bolt rode, it would still pull it completely out of engagement so it would not drag on the cyl .....or..... stay too high to allow it to revolve. Is this correct? Can I stone the internal part of the bolt to get more engagement in the cyl notches?

July 19, 2004, 07:23 PM	#2
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	Springs? How well does the stop spring back to full height when you push it down? Mine only extends 1/16" above the frame. It has a little side to side play in the frame, but does not seem to affect cylinder play badly. I can wiggle the cylinder slightly, but not much. Maybe you should check for dirt or debris in the frame or in the notches not letting it come up fully. Or weakish spring action. If you take it out of the gun, see how well it fits in the notches by hand. Maybe it or the notches is burred and cannot seat properly. Push the front of the cylinder back and forth and see if the crane moves away from the frame much. That can aggravate rotation problems too. Has it had alot of rounds thru it? Maybe it needs an overall tuneup for stretched parts.

July 19, 2004, 09:28 PM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Unless you have a SPECIFIC problem with the gun (out of time, failing to lock up, failing to stay locked, etc) DO NOT alter the bolt or any other part. All you will do is ruin the part, and have to have a pro repair it. I you'd like to check your S&W for proper adjustment and operation, invest a few bucks in a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The S&W Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual". This should be required equipment for every S&W revolver owner, whether you want to work on it or not. It's absolutely jammed with the best info on S&W inspection, disassembly, adjustment, and gunsmith repair there is available. You can buy a copy from Brownell's, Midway, and most on-line and local book sellers. Rule #ONE for gun owners: NEVER alter any part of a firearm unless you KNOW there's a problem, precisely WHAT the problem is, and exactly HOW to fix it. Gunsmith's get a LOT of business from people who "suspect" there might be a problem, and think they know how to fix it. Buy the book, it's money well spent.