Stuck M-1 Garand gas cylinder lock

WETSU · September 15, 2000, 02:51 PM

I recently acquired another M-1 Garand, SA, rebarreled, and a shooter. However, for the life of me I can't get the gas cylinder lock screw to turn. I don't want to force it or damage it. Any suggestions? My other one comes off just fine.

[This message has been edited by WETSU (edited September 15, 2000).]

Robert Foote · September 15, 2000, 05:22 PM

I believe I saw this over at CSP (www.jouster.com). You might even want to go over there to the M1/M14 board and ask this same question. As I recall, it involved a large (#4?) phillips screw bit and a breaker bar. If you do this chuck the end of the muzzle up carefully in a vise to support--but not crush--the gas cylinder. When you get it out and cleaned up get in the habit of using some Permatex anti-seize compound to avoid this in the future. Good luck.

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Badger Arms · September 16, 2000, 03:48 PM

First, what tye of tool are you using to remove it? I ground a screwdriver special to fit into mine and haven't had a problem since. What I ususally do to remove large stuck screws is use a shot of break-free and let it sit overnight and then try it again. That's the method for patient people and it most often works well. A destructive method is to use a chisel and just hammer it counterclockwise a few times to get it to budge. I'd invest in a proper bit and a breaker bar first but surely you should soak it in break-free for a while.

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God made us in his own image.
Thomas Jefferson made us free.
John Browning made us equal.

Without Browning, we might not know about the other two...

Unkel Gilbey · September 20, 2000, 11:09 AM

Another way would be to pull the action off the stock, and then disassemble it to the point where you pull the Op Rod out of it's hole. THEN dump some CLP (Break free) down in there (into the Gas cylinder) to loosen up all the carbon that's holding that bugger shut. As Badger said, let her sit over night and then she should move for you. I also like the idea of a dedicated #4 Phillips mounted to a breaker - but if it's kept clean and anti-seized, you should never have that problem again.

September 15, 2000, 02:51 PM	#1
WETSU Member Join Date: January 11, 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 94	I recently acquired another M-1 Garand, SA, rebarreled, and a shooter. However, for the life of me I can't get the gas cylinder lock screw to turn. I don't want to force it or damage it. Any suggestions? My other one comes off just fine. [This message has been edited by WETSU (edited September 15, 2000).]

September 15, 2000, 05:22 PM	#2
Robert Foote Senior Member Join Date: December 31, 1998 Posts: 623	I believe I saw this over at CSP (www.jouster.com). You might even want to go over there to the M1/M14 board and ask this same question. As I recall, it involved a large (#4?) phillips screw bit and a breaker bar. If you do this chuck the end of the muzzle up carefully in a vise to support--but not crush--the gas cylinder. When you get it out and cleaned up get in the habit of using some Permatex anti-seize compound to avoid this in the future. Good luck. ------------------

September 16, 2000, 03:48 PM	#3
Badger Arms Senior Member Join Date: July 2, 2000 Location: Harnett County, NC Posts: 1,700	First, what tye of tool are you using to remove it? I ground a screwdriver special to fit into mine and haven't had a problem since. What I ususally do to remove large stuck screws is use a shot of break-free and let it sit overnight and then try it again. That's the method for patient people and it most often works well. A destructive method is to use a chisel and just hammer it counterclockwise a few times to get it to budge. I'd invest in a proper bit and a breaker bar first but surely you should soak it in break-free for a while. ------------------ God made us in his own image. Thomas Jefferson made us free. John Browning made us equal. Without Browning, we might not know about the other two...

September 20, 2000, 11:09 AM	#4
Unkel Gilbey Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 1999 Location: Danby, Vermont Posts: 349	Another way would be to pull the action off the stock, and then disassemble it to the point where you pull the Op Rod out of it's hole. THEN dump some CLP (Break free) down in there (into the Gas cylinder) to loosen up all the carbon that's holding that bugger shut. As Badger said, let her sit over night and then she should move for you. I also like the idea of a dedicated #4 Phillips mounted to a breaker - but if it's kept clean and anti-seized, you should never have that problem again.