variables

[bobthenailer]

I have been relaoding for years, not really for ultimate accuracy mind you simply for hunting economics and the fact that I like to do most things for myself. Well I bought a new rifle and this time I desire to tinker with the load more. Question is, with so MANY variables in a load ie. bullet weight, type etc., powder charge and type, seating depth and so on, which should you play with first while leaving the others constant. And then move on in what order. What have you guys found works the best?
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[VUPDblue]

I like to find the correct bullet weight for my rifle and my use first (what do you want the load to do? Targets, game, etc...). I experiment with several different weights using a good powder (I really like 4064 and 3031) and find what weight holds the tightest group. Then I get the headspace measured and try a few different seating depths. The list is endless and I am always on the lookout for a good load...

[rwilson452]

The two I would tweak first are powder charge and OAL. For example for 30-06 Pick a moderate powder know for use in that such as IMR 4895. A nominal bullet somthing in a spitzer in either a 150 or 165 gr weight. for powder steps for a 30-06 I would move up in .5 gr steps. in a .223 I would use .2 gr steps. for OAL I would use .005 steps in either case. Once I get close to where I'm going, sort cases and bullets by weight If you don't get the accuracy you want change one thing. and start over. You will find the rifle will respond best in a narrow range of velocity and OAL. Using something like the Sinclair bullet comparator to maintain similiar OAL between different bullets will shorten the search.

[Unclenick]

There is an old axiom to Murphy's Law that says where more than one mathematician is involved in an erroneous calculation, the fault will never be placed. Loading variables are like this. They tend to cover each other up. When you combine several sources of error, each of which could cause the same degree of error on the target, the chances of them unilaterally adding to the error all in the same direction all at the same time is low. So the more of them there are, the lower this probability becomes until the last added error source, if corrected all by itself, appears to make almost no difference at the target. This, even though it matters just as much as any of the others. Add in that some kinds of error tend to contribute in one direction and others in another and some just randomly all about, and you have a real mare's nest trying to decide which to tackle first?

Then another complication: In the real world, some sources of error will be more significant than others, but in any two guns, these need not have the same ranking. So, my advice is that you not try to anticipate which will hold the most importance, but rather take the pragmatic approach of working with what you can do most easily, then add equipment and techniques into the equation from there.

For many people already reloading, they will find themselves already equipped to adjust powder charge. Start with that. When you're ready for seating depth, get a Stoney Point tool and maybe a Redding Competition Seating die for your cartridge so you don't have runnout messing with the bullet seating determination. When you've exhausted that, go to case prep tooling, measuring and gaging. After that look at software tools and chronographs to calculate barrel timing.

Good luck, and have fun. Above all, don't let it turn into work!

Nick

[Buckythebrewer]

I agree ,good pointsI like to start with looking at what I am going to do with the reloads(accuracy and at what range,volume shooting,etc,etc)
.I also don't believe in purchasing solutions to a problem like buying some expensive piece of equipment because it sounds impressive..I load with lee pacesetter full length dies and collet dies and shoot out to 625 yrds with M.O.A. accuracy and better on simple single stage press and simple inexpensive reloading gear..The worse thing is false positives,like when you change something and have good results but didn't realise that it was some other variable that caused it..I believe the most important things to do is work on shooting technic and when testing ammo have a consistent technic(like on sandbags and good shooting habits)for shooting..Then try things(safely that is)one at a time and if no results go back to what you did before and try another variable.BULLETS size TO BARREL TWIST AND CLEANING technic are one of the most important things to accuracy IMO..My ar15 loves 77-80 gr smk @ 100yrds all the way out to at least 625yrds.I full length size them and don't seem to see an accuracy loss over neck sizing(with shoulder bumped .004).I also have great results between 22gr of h4895 -23.8 gr of h4895...Some times your chasing the wrong answer to the solution and that sucks, so all I can say is be open minded and don't try anything that is expensive or very difficult until you have tried all the easy and cheap possibilities..good luck

[amamnn]

How far you need, want, or even can go in the pursuit of accuracy will depend upon what kind of rifle you are shooting. Off the shelf? Custom? Bolt? Autoloader? Caliber?
you can improve things for any of the above by using brass of the same brand and weight (within a weight range determined by you) if from the same lot# so much the better. Using bullets made by manufacturers who also list info for the bullet in a manual will help--match bullets are best, but you might not want to go that far--same with primers and etc. etc.