GP100 Spring kit from Wolff

[hodaka]

I just changed the hammer and trigger springs in my Ruger. I used the 9#hammer and the 8# trigger. The lightest ones. It only took about 15 minutes and made a huge difference in how it feels. Now to see if it is strong enough to light all my primers. Some loads have small rifle primers so we shall see.

BTW - Wolff had them in my mailbox in about a week.

[rrruger]

I dropped the spring weight on my GP100 using Wolff springs and started getting primer strike failures (4%). The factory loads were mostly Remington 125 grain +P .38 special. I started hand loading using Remington primers and the failure to fire dropped to zero (500 rounds now). I'm guessing that the factory loads don't use the same primers that they sell to the public.

[Hammerhead]

I would be interested in the results with those rifle primers.
I had a couple FTF's with my handloads in my GP with the stock springs. I switched from priming on the press's arm to a RCBS Ram prime on top of the press. The FTF's have disappeared.

[dahermit]

Some loads have small rifle primers so we shall see.

Where are you getting loading data that uses rifle primers in handgun loads?

[RsqVet]

I would only use the heaviest spring in the wolf kit. Anything else and I have found reliability suffers. Fine on the range, bad for defense.

Smooth the internals and you can still have a great trigger at that weight hammer spring.

[hodaka]

I will not have a chance to try it out until Saturday.

Regarding rifle primers, many of us have standardized on rifle primers for all small primer applications. I have used them nearly exclusively for over 10 years. They can be loaded as if they were magnum primers. I did score some small pistol primers recently though and I loaded my last set of .38's with them. All of my pistols shoot the small rifle primers just fine. I've never changed springs before though and I realize that there may be problems due to the extra hardness of the cup. The Ruger is not a defensive gun, just a range toy. I started with the weak hammer spring and can easily increase it until I get what I like. I'm not sure what parts to polish and am a bit hesitant to try. I appreciate the comments.

[rrruger]

Smooth the internals and you can still have a great trigger at that weight hammer spring.

Roger that!
there is plenty of info on line on what to stone and what not to stone. But it sure makes a difference!

[amd6547]

I bought a 3" fixed sight GP100 last weekend. It was used, like new, with a 2013 build date.
I had read about spring changes and action work on the GP100...
But I doubt that I will do a thing. The DA trigger is very smooth, and the SA I great.

[GP100man]

I`ve measured the thickness of CCI 550 spm & CCI 400 srp (standard small rifle)

They are the same , but my findings are the 400 are a step hotter.

I have devloped loads with some of the dirtier powders & cleaned em up a bit while using em in "mid range" loads . I`m certain if you push the envelope with srp most if not all pistol/shotgun/small rifle powders would build peak pressures very qwikly .

Do I regularly use srp no . Could I get by with just srp yes, but you better believe I`d have a supply of chrono batteries though !!

GP

[dahermit]

Regarding rifle primers, many of us have standardized on rifle primers for all small primer applications. I have used them nearly exclusively for over 10 years.

Why? What was the purpose for going to small rifle? I can see how they might have some utility in magnum loads, but why would they be an asset in moderate to light loads? This is the first I have heard of this...really curious.

[hodaka]

Dahermit, the practice has been kicked around on this site before. There are really two schools of thought. Some folks only use small pistol primers for pistols and small rifle for rifles. They have mixed views on .357 or 9 mm in rifles. Others, like myself, find it easier to just stock small rifle for both applications. It comes in handy when you order a lot of primers at one time. Inventory is simplified. Please note that it is not wise to use small pistol in a rifle. I rarely push the top end of my load data, at least with pistols. I have never experienced a problem and I shoot a lot.

[rugersp101]

I prefer to keep my springs stock.

[Hammerhead]

I have a chart of CCI primer energies.
SP 500 = 5.5 ft/lbs
SPM 550 = 8.8
SR 400 = 6.0
SRM 450 = 7.2
I've used SRP's in .38 Super before and wouldn't hesitate to use them in .357 if I needed to.
For light loads I will always go with standard SP's, preferably Federal.

[dahermit]

Others, like myself, find it easier to just stock small rifle for both applications. It comes in handy when you order a lot of primers at one time.

So then, the sole purpose of using rifle (small) primers in handguns is logistical, not performance related in any way? Just want to get this right.
Are they any harder to ignite than CCI small pistol primers?

[Sevens]

Regarding the use of small rifle primers...
Digging & research has shown us that for CCI brand primers (I do -NOT- know about any other brands), the CCI-400 Small Rifle (non-magnum) and the CCI-550 Small Pistol Magnum primer... are the SAME product in different packaging.

I do not know if the 400 is harder to ignite, but I would suggest that it is-- part of the make-up of a rifle and/or a magnum primer isn't simply a longer burning/hotter flame, it's also a sturdier cup to contain higher pressures. The primer is a weak spot for containing pressure.

FWIW, the .327 Federal Magnum handgun cartridge was designed specifically around a magnum pistol primer as the cartridge runs a SAAMI max pressure of 45k PSI. Federal has only ever loaded the round with a magnum primer.

Many folks have transitioned to using small rifle (non-magnum) primers and eliminated the small pistol non-magnum primer from their inventory. and if you are loading handgun ammo using the popular H110/W296 (I don't) or Accurate#9 (I do!) than you truly should be using magnum primers for your loads.

Further mucking things up (but not for small pistol primers) are Winchester's WLP, for which they state on the packaging "for regular or magnum pistol loads" and it appears they don't even offer a non-magnum large pistol primer anymore.

CCI primers are well known in the game to have some of -the- hardest cups, and are some of the most difficult to detonate. As it turns out, I also ordered a Wolff spring kit for my GP-100 which is chambered in... (you knew it was coming! ) .327 Federal Magnum and I did indeed have some light strike problems with the lightest hammer spring when shooting double action. I believe I'm a couple pounds under stock now and running well. CCI-400 primers exclusively in this round.

[chrisintexas]

poster rugersp101 - I thought all new gp100 come with hogue grips how come yours look different? and that barrel looks different then the 4 inch barrel too.

[rugersp101]

Yadda,yadda,yadda.

[amd6547]

This week, I got the rubber portion of the old style GP100 compact grip on eBay for $20 shipped! It came with the aluminum mounting dowel, but no screw or side panels. It was new in the Ruger labeled zip bag.
I had an old SP101 grip...I took the black plastic panels and screw and put the new grip on my 3" GP...about 15 minutes ago.
The Hogue grip works great, but adds too much size and bulk to the 3".

[feets]

Back to the hammer spring...

I have done extensive work inside my Super Redhawk. It's got the same action as the GP. Despite removing as much friction as possible, when I ran the heaviest Wolff reduced power hammer spring the gun would not make it though a full cylinder. I was running 45 Colt primed with Remington, Winchester, and CCI. None of them made six consecutive single action shots. Double action was understandably worse. Sometimes a second hit would light the round. When that failed I could drop them in my Redhawk or Vaquero and light 'em off on the first hit.

When you take that thing to the range be sure to include all four hammer springs and your tools. You're going to need them.

[GP100man]

2 things that really help ALL Ruger revolvers is shimmin the hammer to center & cleanin up the hammer strut& stirup.

Look on the sides of the hammer ,got scratches??? , it`s draggin & guess what it`s doing , robbing the hammer of kenetic energy ,big time!!


Lance at MichiganOutdoors.com can set ya up with all that is needed to remedy the problem !

[hodaka]

I decided to go shooting at lunch. I had 4 different .38 special loads with 3 different primers.

1) Tula standard small pistol primers with 231 and 158 SWC - all 30 fired
2) Tula standard small pistol with 231 and 140 round nose - all 30 fired
3) CCI standard small pistol with HS-6 and 158 SWC - all 24 fired
4) Tula small rifle with AA #5 and 158 SWC - out of 50, four required a second hammer strike.

All shots were double action.

I may put the heavier spring in but probably not for a while. I'm pretty happy with these results because the trigger pull is very nice now and I have 5K small pistol primers in the drawer (all I could find the last time I ordered). As stated earlier, this is a range toy. My serious guns are all autos.

I think this was $15 or so that was well spent.

[GP100man]

Hi jack ALERT !

I`ve had misfires with Tulas also , firing on the second hit , but I find em on the tite side & think I`m not "feelin" the primer seat to the bottom !

I use a Hornady hand primer for small primers & have 80 yr ole hands

[s4s4u]

I tried the 9# in my GeeP and had light strikes. Went to the 10 and been 100%.

[rrruger]

Despite removing as much friction as possible, when I ran the heaviest Wolff reduced power hammer spring the gun would not make it though a full cylinder. I was running 45 Colt primed with Remington, Winchester, and CCI. None of them made six consecutive single action shots. Double action was understandably worse.

I own a GP100 and I have wondered if the failure to fire might be related to the transfer bar not striking the frame flush and being torqued slightly by the hammer. By design the transfer has a lot of play. If this play causes it to sit off the frame, even a few thousands, could it bleed off the energy of a hammer strike. The last time I had the transfer bar out of mine I noticed a very light dimple on the face (looks like the firing pin mark). A little Prussian blue and a good stone should take care of squaring up the face in short order. And if the firing pin channel has soot lodged in the spring or around the pin this might cause FTF just like my old 1911.
Your thoughts here?

[tomrkba]

I found the 9# and 10# hammer springs did not ignite my self-defense ammo. The 11# spring works well, but I'll keep a 12# one around. The greatest improvement came from the 8# trigger return spring. However, keep in mind that the trigger reset is slower. I think the benefit of the improved pull outweighs the speed of reset.