Another Colt Newb wedge question

Nate1778 · May 2, 2009, 06:10 PM

So I got my '51 Colt, trying to do the initial cleaning of the gun and the wedge is being stubborn. My question is are you guys whacking the entire wedge, or just the smaller wedge "spring" out? I just want to make sure I am shoving the right thing.

mykeal · May 2, 2009, 07:20 PM

The entire wedge. Tapped gently towards the side with the screw head.

gmatov · May 2, 2009, 10:48 PM

Nate,

If the spring is all the way thru and latched, and IF you HAVE a thumbnail, try pressing the spring down while you push the wedge. Also, a smack to the muzzle with the ball of the hand will sometimes give a bit of clearance.

Wedge should never have to be hammered out. If the spring IS hooked, and you eat your nails, take any thing you can find of plastic and press the spring down and thumb the wedge out.

Cheers,

George

scrat · May 2, 2009, 10:59 PM

take a screw driver a medium sized one about what are they 7 inches long. hold it by the metal use the plastic end and whack the wedge with the plastic. when its flush you should be able to pull it from the other side. if not you have the screw drver to put on the wedge and hit with your palm

Smokin_Gun · May 3, 2009, 12:50 AM

Pocket Wedge removal tool I've been posting since 2005(Plastic teflon handle)

CaptainCrossman · May 3, 2009, 07:55 AM

get a small pair of needle nose pliers, use the tips to squeeze the small spring downward, then while holding it down, push inward and "start" the spring into the slot. Once the spring is compressed, use a proper sized drift to drive it out, without marring/scratching/nicking the sides of the barrel.

you can also get just the right sized wooden or plastic drift, and hit inward and DOWNWARD in the spring tip, and usually it will compress the spring and hit the wedge out simultaneously- without scratching the barrel surface

shoot a Colt long enough, the spring in the wedge may get worn out, and stay down- then you can just tap the end of the wedge with a wooden peg or wooden hammer handle, and pull it out

51_60_colt · May 3, 2009, 08:33 AM

I just place a guitar pick over the wedge and tap it lightly with a small hammer, to put it back in I push the spring against the top of the slot and push in...then a very very light little tap with my small lil hammer with the guitar pic used as a guard on the end of the wedge so it doesnt mar the surface. works for me

Nate1778 · May 3, 2009, 09:45 AM

I did end up getting it with a good whack. Smoking Gun, your wedge comes out the other side quite a bit. Mine only comes flush with the frame and no further. It leaves a lot coming out the other side (screw side). Is this normal or should it go through the frame and be well exposed on the other side?

pohill · May 3, 2009, 10:10 AM

This is how the wedge looks on an 1851 .36 that was made in 1862. The barrel/frame connection is still very tight.

CaptainCrossman · May 3, 2009, 04:28 PM

The Italian and Belgium replicas can't hold a candle to the original 1800's guns. The Colt 2nd-3rd gen guns are a better effort, but still not as good as an original.

madcratebuilder · May 3, 2009, 04:57 PM

Quote:

I did end up getting it with a good whack. Smoking Gun, your wedge comes out the other side quite a bit. Mine only comes flush with the frame and no further. It leaves a lot coming out the other side (screw side). Is this normal or should it go through the frame and be well exposed on the other side?

That is pretty normal for reproductions. If I'm fitting a new wedge I like to have about 1/16-1/8 inch sticking out. The thin spring is the keep the wedge from falling out completely when the barrel is removed. The repro's are not like the originals in that respect.

Quote:

The Italian and Belgium replicas can't hold a candle to the original 1800's guns. The Colt 2nd-3rd gen guns are a better effort, but still not as good as an original.

That's a load of male cow manure. The Centaure's are made from some very good steel, just ask anyone who has worked on one. The same for the 2nd and 3rd gens.

51_60_colt · May 3, 2009, 04:58 PM

Quote:

The Italian and Belgium replicas can't hold a candle to the original 1800's guns. The Colt 2nd-3rd gen guns are a better effort, but still not as good as an original.

I thought that the 2nd and 3rd gen. Colts were made by italian manufacturers and then inspected by colt. I'm probly wrong....just wonderin...I'll bet Fingers McGee could tell me.

madcratebuilder · May 3, 2009, 05:43 PM

The made in Italy rumor well never die, it's on the internet and everything on the net is fact, right?

Val Forgett and Lou Imperato supplied parts to Colt. These parts included rough castings and semi-worked parts acquired from both American and Italian subcontractors as well as in-house fabrication. So yes, some of these parts were fabricated in Italy to Colts detailed specifications.

There is a Colt document, a 120 page "Summary of Operations" that specifies every part of the manufacturing process for the cap and ball revolvers. Machining, fitting, polishing, bluing, color case hardening, roll engraving and on and on, was done right here in the USA.

That's how Sam did it back in the day, he used subcontractors, and he even used imported parts, heaven forbid.

Nate1778 · May 3, 2009, 05:53 PM

Thanks guys for your replies, seams even a wedge question can bring a troll around. Got it back together, although I spent a half an hour looking for the trigger spring screw, ended up being in the cuff of my pant.......

Smokin_Gun · May 4, 2009, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Smoking Gun, your wedge comes out the other side quite a bit. Mine only comes flush with the frame and no further. It leaves a lot coming out the other side (screw side). Is this normal or should it go through the frame and be well exposed on the other side

That's normal and more on Piettas than say Uberti Colts. Most of my newer Revs the wedge is flush and not thru to the spring clip catchin'.

Doc Hoy · May 4, 2009, 05:25 AM

I just examined all of my Colt or Colt style revolvers I have four in which the wedge extends beyond the surface of the barrel on the right hand side. On all of these revolvers (Euroarms, Pietta, Navy Arms and FIE) I can push the wedge out with my fingers. No tools needed. On two, (Centaure and Pietta) the wedge does not extend outside the barrel. Probably because the Pietta is new and the Centaure was just rehabbed.

I know that the situation changes over time with wear, (at least I assume it does because I never really paid attention) but that is my situation right now.

JarYetz · May 11, 2009, 08:34 PM

So, I just bought an 1851 navy, the non-historical .44 cal by Pietta. Nice lookin' gun, like the feel...however:

I tapped out the wedge, and I feel like I must be doing something wrong now because I cannot get the barrel off. What gives? Anyone have any ideas?

long rider · May 11, 2009, 08:38 PM

Simple just use the loading lever, like if you was loading
a ball.

long rider · May 11, 2009, 08:40 PM

OPPS need more, the loading lever should sit
on the edge of the cylinder then push down on
the lever and it will move forward.

JarYetz · May 11, 2009, 08:41 PM

I just figured that out and was coming back to ask if that was OK to do. Great, thanks!

madcratebuilder · May 11, 2009, 10:18 PM

If it's being real stubborn put a Popsicle stick between the ram and cylinder. That well protect the metal on the cylinder.

mykeal · May 12, 2009, 05:42 AM

eat the Popsicle first.

williamfeldmann · May 12, 2009, 08:43 AM

"eat the Popsicle first."

My gun got all gooey and fuity until I read that post, then my monitor got a gooey and fruity. On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD.

No Colts were harmed in the writing of this post.

Fingers McGee · May 12, 2009, 10:29 AM

Quote:

I thought that the 2nd and 3rd gen. Colts were made by italian manufacturers and then inspected by colt. I'm probly wrong....just wonderin...I'll bet Fingers McGee could tell me.

MCB has it right.

Quote:

The made in Italy rumor well never die, it's on the internet and everything on the net is fact, right?

Val Forgett and Lou Imperato supplied parts to Colt. These parts included rough castings and semi-worked parts acquired from both American and Italian subcontractors as well as in-house fabrication. So yes, some of these parts were fabricated in Italy to Colts detailed specifications.

Quote:

eat the Popsicle first.

Now, that's funny, I don't care who you are

olyinaz · May 12, 2009, 10:57 AM

>>>On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD.<<<

It's the Crisco. Mmmmm....

Oly

May 2, 2009, 06:10 PM	#1
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	Another Colt Newb wedge question So I got my '51 Colt, trying to do the initial cleaning of the gun and the wedge is being stubborn. My question is are you guys whacking the entire wedge, or just the smaller wedge "spring" out? I just want to make sure I am shoving the right thing. __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

May 3, 2009, 12:50 AM	#5
Smokin_Gun Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, CA Posts: 1,195	Pocket Wedge removal tool I've been posting since 2005(Plastic teflon handle) __________________ "I Smoke Black Powder" "Favor an 1858 Remington" SGT. Smokin' Gun, Mosby's Rangers 43rd Virginia Cavalry C.S.A. SASS# 19634, ... Admin:http://blackpowdersmoke.com/oldcoots/index.php

May 3, 2009, 08:33 AM	#7
51_60_colt Member Join Date: March 31, 2009 Location: Winston-Salem or Boone, NC Posts: 76	I just place a guitar pick over the wedge and tap it lightly with a small hammer, to put it back in I push the spring against the top of the slot and push in...then a very very light little tap with my small lil hammer with the guitar pic used as a guard on the end of the wedge so it doesnt mar the surface. works for me __________________ "I'm a big fan of gun control, if there is a gun around I want to be controlling it." NRA

May 3, 2009, 09:45 AM	#8
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	I did end up getting it with a good whack. Smoking Gun, your wedge comes out the other side quite a bit. Mine only comes flush with the frame and no further. It leaves a lot coming out the other side (screw side). Is this normal or should it go through the frame and be well exposed on the other side? __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

May 3, 2009, 05:53 PM	#14
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	Thanks guys for your replies, seams even a wedge question can bring a troll around. Got it back together, although I spent a half an hour looking for the trigger spring screw, ended up being in the cuff of my pant....... __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

May 2, 2009, 07:20 PM	#2
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	The entire wedge. Tapped gently towards the side with the screw head.

May 2, 2009, 10:48 PM	#3
gmatov Junior member Join Date: September 20, 2005 Posts: 346	Nate, If the spring is all the way thru and latched, and IF you HAVE a thumbnail, try pressing the spring down while you push the wedge. Also, a smack to the muzzle with the ball of the hand will sometimes give a bit of clearance. Wedge should never have to be hammered out. If the spring IS hooked, and you eat your nails, take any thing you can find of plastic and press the spring down and thumb the wedge out. Cheers, George

May 2, 2009, 10:59 PM	#4
scrat Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2008 Posts: 214	take a screw driver a medium sized one about what are they 7 inches long. hold it by the metal use the plastic end and whack the wedge with the plastic. when its flush you should be able to pull it from the other side. if not you have the screw drver to put on the wedge and hit with your palm

May 3, 2009, 07:55 AM	#6
CaptainCrossman Junior member Join Date: April 2, 2009 Posts: 381	get a small pair of needle nose pliers, use the tips to squeeze the small spring downward, then while holding it down, push inward and "start" the spring into the slot. Once the spring is compressed, use a proper sized drift to drive it out, without marring/scratching/nicking the sides of the barrel. you can also get just the right sized wooden or plastic drift, and hit inward and DOWNWARD in the spring tip, and usually it will compress the spring and hit the wedge out simultaneously- without scratching the barrel surface shoot a Colt long enough, the spring in the wedge may get worn out, and stay down- then you can just tap the end of the wedge with a wooden peg or wooden hammer handle, and pull it out

May 3, 2009, 10:10 AM	#9
pohill Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2005 Location: northeast Posts: 521	This is how the wedge looks on an 1851 .36 that was made in 1862. The barrel/frame connection is still very tight.

May 3, 2009, 04:28 PM	#10
CaptainCrossman Junior member Join Date: April 2, 2009 Posts: 381	The Italian and Belgium replicas can't hold a candle to the original 1800's guns. The Colt 2nd-3rd gen guns are a better effort, but still not as good as an original.

May 3, 2009, 05:43 PM	#13
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	The made in Italy rumor well never die, it's on the internet and everything on the net is fact, right? Val Forgett and Lou Imperato supplied parts to Colt. These parts included rough castings and semi-worked parts acquired from both American and Italian subcontractors as well as in-house fabrication. So yes, some of these parts were fabricated in Italy to Colts detailed specifications. There is a Colt document, a 120 page "Summary of Operations" that specifies every part of the manufacturing process for the cap and ball revolvers. Machining, fitting, polishing, bluing, color case hardening, roll engraving and on and on, was done right here in the USA. That's how Sam did it back in the day, he used subcontractors, and he even used imported parts, heaven forbid.

May 4, 2009, 05:25 AM	#16
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	This prompted me to take a look I just examined all of my Colt or Colt style revolvers I have four in which the wedge extends beyond the surface of the barrel on the right hand side. On all of these revolvers (Euroarms, Pietta, Navy Arms and FIE) I can push the wedge out with my fingers. No tools needed. On two, (Centaure and Pietta) the wedge does not extend outside the barrel. Probably because the Pietta is new and the Centaure was just rehabbed. I know that the situation changes over time with wear, (at least I assume it does because I never really paid attention) but that is my situation right now. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

May 11, 2009, 08:34 PM	#17
JarYetz Member Join Date: April 26, 2009 Location: Mohnton, PA Posts: 73	So, I just bought an 1851 navy, the non-historical .44 cal by Pietta. Nice lookin' gun, like the feel...however: I tapped out the wedge, and I feel like I must be doing something wrong now because I cannot get the barrel off. What gives? Anyone have any ideas?

May 11, 2009, 08:38 PM	#18
long rider Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2008 Posts: 669	Simple just use the loading lever, like if you was loading a ball. __________________ Sod Buster Tried To Pull On Willson.

May 11, 2009, 08:40 PM	#19
long rider Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2008 Posts: 669	OPPS need more, the loading lever should sit on the edge of the cylinder then push down on the lever and it will move forward. __________________ Sod Buster Tried To Pull On Willson.

May 11, 2009, 08:41 PM	#20
JarYetz Member Join Date: April 26, 2009 Location: Mohnton, PA Posts: 73	I just figured that out and was coming back to ask if that was OK to do. Great, thanks!

May 11, 2009, 10:18 PM	#21
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	If it's being real stubborn put a Popsicle stick between the ram and cylinder. That well protect the metal on the cylinder.

May 12, 2009, 05:42 AM	#22
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	eat the Popsicle first.

May 12, 2009, 08:43 AM	#23
williamfeldmann Member Join Date: December 23, 2008 Posts: 60	"eat the Popsicle first." My gun got all gooey and fuity until I read that post, then my monitor got a gooey and fruity. On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD. No Colts were harmed in the writing of this post.

May 12, 2009, 10:57 AM	#25
olyinaz Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 877	>>>On the plus side who knew a Colt could taste so GOOD.<<< It's the Crisco. Mmmmm.... Oly