Need HELP with Springfield 1911 "Loaded" assembly

Fusternc · December 27, 1999, 10:24 PM

I just picked up my new Springfield Stainless "Loaded" fullsize 1911 tonight, and in preparation for the range session tomorrow, I decided I'd take it apart, clean it, and lube it. Well, after MUCH frustration and lots of time, I managed to get it apart, cleaned it, but I absolutely cannot figure out exactly how it goes back together. The manual is pitiful in its assembly instructions. It says to assemble, "do the reverse of disassembly" Gimme a break.

Here is what I am doing by step to assemble (with no success):

1) 1st of all the Hammer is fully cocked (is this correct?)

2) I put the barrel in the slide, and push the link forward so its pointing toward the muzzle end of the barrel. I then place the guide rod on the barrel, and place the recoil spring in it. Then I fit the slide and receiver together, and match up slide release detent (in slide) with hole of barrel link, and the hole in the receiver. Then when I try and insert the slide release lever, I cannot fully push it into the receiver and barrel link because some detent pin pointing out of the thumb safety device pointing toward the muzzle end is blocking its path and preventing it from seating properly in the hole in the receiver.

I have tried putting safety on and off, but the detent pin stays extended. ??

What am I doing wrong? I have looked on at least 3 1911 web sites sites that feature pics and disassembly instructions but none of the sites show anything like this. Your help is much appreciated. I have already scratched the hell out of the receiver trying to assemble it.

This is my first 1911 handgun. All I had up to this point was SIG's. They are a piece of cake to assemble and disassemble without so many parts.

Nathan...

Mikey · December 27, 1999, 10:56 PM

Assuming that you are getting the slide stop pin thru the hole in the link, which can take a little wiggling, you are OK up to the point you describe as your "problem".

The little pin you say is in your way is called the "plunger", and it is the plunger that the slide stop uses as resistance to make it work. This plunger must be depressed to allow the slide stop to go home. The slide must also be positioned to the rear so the takedown notch (the smaller one) is directly over the square hole in the frame that the protruding portion of the slide stop goes thru.

The plunger can be depressed several ways...

You can depress it with a spare firing pin or similarly sized punch but they can mark the frame. I sometimes use a popsicle stick or a thinned handle on an old toothbrush. Depress the plunger and start the slide stop, then pull the stick out of the way while maintaining pressure on the stop. It should pop into place.

You can use the beveled upper part of the slide stop protrusion to depress the plunger but you have to keep a firm hold on the stop or it can slip a scratch the frame. You have to start with the slide stop partially inserted and rotated at a slightly lower than normal position and push upward and toward the center of the gun at the same time. The beveled surface should push the plunger in as the slide stop goes home.

I have learned to do them fairly easily on most 1911's but I really like a trick I learned (can't remember where) where I cut a small v shaped notch in the slide stop with a fine triangular file at the exact position where the plunger strikes the slide stop, as if you were going to push it in at its correct position. The little notch serves as a guide for the plunger and you can just push the little rascal in place. You have to really understand how it works before you do any cutting so you don't mess up any critical surfaces.

Some good news - since your gun is stainless, the scratches will be relatively cheap to remove and refinish. It's really a sandblasting job but a smith will do it at relatively low cost. A smith can also cut the groove for you.

Till then, try the popsicle stick.

Mikey

[This message has been edited by Mikey (edited December 27, 1999).]

Fusternc · December 28, 1999, 02:34 AM

Thanks for the help Mikey, and also to VKBB who chatted with me on AOL instant messenger to get me setup. After the plunger problem was solved, I still had a heck of a time getting the barrel bushing in while depressing the guide plug, but with alot of patience I finally got it assembled after a good solid 1.5hrs of messing with it. I won't be taking this gun apart too frequently..thats for sure!

I enjoy assembling and cleaning my Sigs, but this thing is a real chore. Feel sorry for the ground pounders that had to keep up on maintenance with these things in the field. This thing is so tight its ridiculous. I'm gonna see how things go at the range tomorrow (err today). Thanks again Guys!

Nathan.........

Mikey · December 28, 1999, 10:23 AM

Don't give up on the disassembly and cleaning. Find a knowlegable club member or gunsmith who is willing to show you the ropes and it will be really easy. It's really not difficult, just different from what you're used to.

I checked your profile to see if you were close by but there was no location info. I'm in South Central TN, if I can be of assistance drop me an e-mail.

Mikey

Jim V · December 28, 1999, 01:10 PM

Try http://www.m1911.org for disassembly / assembly instructions. All it really takes to become good at taking it apart and putting it back together is PRACTICE.

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"

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December 27, 1999, 10:24 PM	#1
Fusternc Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 1999 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 113	I just picked up my new Springfield Stainless "Loaded" fullsize 1911 tonight, and in preparation for the range session tomorrow, I decided I'd take it apart, clean it, and lube it. Well, after MUCH frustration and lots of time, I managed to get it apart, cleaned it, but I absolutely cannot figure out exactly how it goes back together. The manual is pitiful in its assembly instructions. It says to assemble, "do the reverse of disassembly" Gimme a break. Here is what I am doing by step to assemble (with no success): 1) 1st of all the Hammer is fully cocked (is this correct?) 2) I put the barrel in the slide, and push the link forward so its pointing toward the muzzle end of the barrel. I then place the guide rod on the barrel, and place the recoil spring in it. Then I fit the slide and receiver together, and match up slide release detent (in slide) with hole of barrel link, and the hole in the receiver. Then when I try and insert the slide release lever, I cannot fully push it into the receiver and barrel link because some detent pin pointing out of the thumb safety device pointing toward the muzzle end is blocking its path and preventing it from seating properly in the hole in the receiver. I have tried putting safety on and off, but the detent pin stays extended. ?? What am I doing wrong? I have looked on at least 3 1911 web sites sites that feature pics and disassembly instructions but none of the sites show anything like this. Your help is much appreciated. I have already scratched the hell out of the receiver trying to assemble it. This is my first 1911 handgun. All I had up to this point was SIG's. They are a piece of cake to assemble and disassemble without so many parts. Nathan...

December 27, 1999, 10:56 PM	#2
Mikey Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 1998 Location: Tennessee Posts: 885	Assuming that you are getting the slide stop pin thru the hole in the link, which can take a little wiggling, you are OK up to the point you describe as your "problem". The little pin you say is in your way is called the "plunger", and it is the plunger that the slide stop uses as resistance to make it work. This plunger must be depressed to allow the slide stop to go home. The slide must also be positioned to the rear so the takedown notch (the smaller one) is directly over the square hole in the frame that the protruding portion of the slide stop goes thru. The plunger can be depressed several ways... You can depress it with a spare firing pin or similarly sized punch but they can mark the frame. I sometimes use a popsicle stick or a thinned handle on an old toothbrush. Depress the plunger and start the slide stop, then pull the stick out of the way while maintaining pressure on the stop. It should pop into place. You can use the beveled upper part of the slide stop protrusion to depress the plunger but you have to keep a firm hold on the stop or it can slip a scratch the frame. You have to start with the slide stop partially inserted and rotated at a slightly lower than normal position and push upward and toward the center of the gun at the same time. The beveled surface should push the plunger in as the slide stop goes home. I have learned to do them fairly easily on most 1911's but I really like a trick I learned (can't remember where) where I cut a small v shaped notch in the slide stop with a fine triangular file at the exact position where the plunger strikes the slide stop, as if you were going to push it in at its correct position. The little notch serves as a guide for the plunger and you can just push the little rascal in place. You have to really understand how it works before you do any cutting so you don't mess up any critical surfaces. Some good news - since your gun is stainless, the scratches will be relatively cheap to remove and refinish. It's really a sandblasting job but a smith will do it at relatively low cost. A smith can also cut the groove for you. Till then, try the popsicle stick. Mikey [This message has been edited by Mikey (edited December 27, 1999).]

December 28, 1999, 02:34 AM	#3
Fusternc Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 1999 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 113	Thanks for the help Mikey, and also to VKBB who chatted with me on AOL instant messenger to get me setup. After the plunger problem was solved, I still had a heck of a time getting the barrel bushing in while depressing the guide plug, but with alot of patience I finally got it assembled after a good solid 1.5hrs of messing with it. I won't be taking this gun apart too frequently..thats for sure! I enjoy assembling and cleaning my Sigs, but this thing is a real chore. Feel sorry for the ground pounders that had to keep up on maintenance with these things in the field. This thing is so tight its ridiculous. I'm gonna see how things go at the range tomorrow (err today). Thanks again Guys! Nathan.........

December 28, 1999, 10:23 AM	#4
Mikey Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 1998 Location: Tennessee Posts: 885	Don't give up on the disassembly and cleaning. Find a knowlegable club member or gunsmith who is willing to show you the ropes and it will be really easy. It's really not difficult, just different from what you're used to. I checked your profile to see if you were close by but there was no location info. I'm in South Central TN, if I can be of assistance drop me an e-mail. Mikey

December 28, 1999, 01:10 PM	#5
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	Try http://www.m1911.org for disassembly / assembly instructions. All it really takes to become good at taking it apart and putting it back together is PRACTICE. ------------------ *Ne Conjuge Nobiscum* "If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"