Best loading bench surface? - Page 2

**Shane Tuttle** · November 9, 2008, 10:56 AM

I asked the same question a few moons ago and went against the grain a bit....no pun intended:

I made mine with 3/4" plywood. Then, I used heavy duty countersunk screws and wood glue to fasten 3/4" solid knotty pine as the top. Although pine is a soft wood, the combination of the two pieces made for a very solid base. I installed the assembly on top of some cabinets to blend in with the basement wet bar next to it.

Here's my little secret: I went to Menard's and got their epoxy resin called "Pour-On". It's very easy to work with and quite a few of my fellow mechanics uses it on their butcherblock tops of their toolboxes. It cures nice and thick. Similar to a bar top. The big advantage to using this is if you get a chip in it by hitting it with a hammer you can easily repair it. All you do is mix a small amount over the damage and it flows into the area. When it cures, it will be like nothing ever happened. Also, it's impervious to nearly everything. I left a rag wet with MEK on it one time. It did soften the coating. However, after leaving it alone for a few hours it hardened right up.

November 9, 2008, 10:56 AM	#26
Shane Tuttle Staff Join Date: November 28, 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 9,443	I asked the same question a few moons ago and went against the grain a bit....no pun intended: I made mine with 3/4" plywood. Then, I used heavy duty countersunk screws and wood glue to fasten 3/4" solid knotty pine as the top. Although pine is a soft wood, the combination of the two pieces made for a very solid base. I installed the assembly on top of some cabinets to blend in with the basement wet bar next to it. Here's my little secret: I went to Menard's and got their epoxy resin called "Pour-On". It's very easy to work with and quite a few of my fellow mechanics uses it on their butcherblock tops of their toolboxes. It cures nice and thick. Similar to a bar top. The big advantage to using this is if you get a chip in it by hitting it with a hammer you can easily repair it. All you do is mix a small amount over the damage and it flows into the area. When it cures, it will be like nothing ever happened. Also, it's impervious to nearly everything. I left a rag wet with MEK on it one time. It did soften the coating. However, after leaving it alone for a few hours it hardened right up. __________________ If it were up to me, the word "got" would be deleted from the English language. Posting and YOU: http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting