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February 21, 2013, 08:02 PM | #1 |
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1911 help - out of box cleaning
I just ordered my first 1911 ever. A STI Spartan V. Normally with a new firearm I strip it down and clean every part and apply lube. But that usually is a just a feild strip.
My Question is this? With the 1911, do I need to completely disasemble the gun or am i ok just to feild strip it and clean it? |
February 21, 2013, 08:07 PM | #2 |
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Just field strip and clean it. Lube it to your own judgment and go have fun at the range.
One thing I'd do is remove the firing pin. Not sure if that's a step in your definition of field strip. I like to make sure the firing pin and the channel is cleaned out from factory oil/preservative. Other than that, you shouldn't have to detail strip before going to shoot for the first time. Don't forget to report back in a new thread telling us how your first time at the range is with it.
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February 21, 2013, 09:18 PM | #3 |
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Thanks Shane. Ill hit youtube and learn how to remove the firing pin.
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February 21, 2013, 09:28 PM | #4 |
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Make sure to scratch the frame when you put the slide stop back in. Might as well get that over with early so you won't have to worry about getting the "idiot mark" any more.
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February 21, 2013, 10:00 PM | #5 |
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Field strip & cleaning...
Most gun owners & gun training programs say to field strip your pistol & check it for excessive gun oil/lube.
Most CLPs & modern products will do fine. I did see a article that suggests a full cleaning, inspection, check every 5 years or so. On the Discovery Channel American Guns series, the dad(a retired police chief & firearms expert) called it a DICA(disassemble inspection clean assemble) or something. He made his teen daughter do the drill with her compact .45acp. ClydeFrog |
February 22, 2013, 04:54 AM | #6 |
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". On the Discovery Channel American Guns series, the dad(a retired police chief & firearms expert) called it a DICA(disassemble inspection clean assemble) or something. He made his teen daughter do the drill with her compact .45acp."
Boy if thats is the highest level of knowledge you can qoute perhaps you should read a book. The guy is a jerk and i would never trust him. |
February 22, 2013, 06:40 AM | #7 |
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There is no such thing as excessive lube on a 1911. If globs of oil fly everywhere each time the slide cycles, that's okay.
Put it in the disconnector launch, locking lug recesses, on the slide and frame rails, all over the barrel and bushing, all up in the hammer. Some use grease, some use oil. I use slip 2000 EWL. If you think it's excessive, it's probably not enough. Older 1911s will run on the dry side, you will get malfunctions with newer ones if they're not wet *(although it depends on the fit of the particular gun). ...also if you have a "match grade" barrel, your feed ramp and chamber fit may be a bit tight and you may get FTFs for a few hundred rounds. And "completely" disassembling a 1911 is doable but if you're a novice can be very frustrating. I'd read up on all the parts and how they fit together, and how everything is supposed to work when you're done (function test). The first time I took a 1911 apart, it didn't come back together as I thought it would. Last edited by thedudeabides; February 22, 2013 at 06:51 AM. |
February 22, 2013, 06:53 AM | #8 |
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This may help. Be sure to follow the link to 1911Tuner's article:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...ight=1911tuner |
February 22, 2013, 08:55 AM | #9 | |
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February 22, 2013, 09:02 AM | #10 |
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February 22, 2013, 09:22 AM | #11 |
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Sport45 is right on target with his comment.
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February 22, 2013, 09:34 AM | #12 |
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The 1911 is the darnedest pistol to put back together, about once a month I end up shooting my recoil spring and plug across the room and wind up on a 15 minute Easter egg hunt. My advice, DO NOT look directly down at the recoil spring while you're pushing it in, or you may have a sweet looking recoil spring plug shaped tatto on your forehead for a few hours ... guilty
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February 22, 2013, 04:03 PM | #13 |
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When I still had my 1911's, I used to wear my shooting glasses when I cleaned and assembled them
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February 22, 2013, 04:11 PM | #14 | ||
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Quote:
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February 22, 2013, 04:25 PM | #15 |
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Wow Mark...
Wow!
Was that an insult Mark or are you just unsure of what I said? You can have your opinions, and I'll have mine, okay? |
February 22, 2013, 04:27 PM | #16 |
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FWIW, the recoil spring plug, the recoil spring and the recoil spring guide are supposed to stay together until the spring is pulled free of the guide.
If your recoil spring plug doesn't have the little indented tab that the spring screws into, the maker is dumb. If it does, and you don't use it, you are dumb. And the rear coil of the spring should be crimped so it is a tight fit on the guide and it doesn't fly away. Jim |
February 22, 2013, 05:45 PM | #17 |
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Just field strip and remove all of the factory "lube". The factories pack the guns in a preservative (not a lube) because they have no idea how long the gun may sit in some damp warehouse before it sells (could be years). The preservative they use can turn into a gummy varnish when the gun is fired so they want you to strip it out and replace it with actual lube. Just get it all off of the breech, extractor, firing pin channel and barrel lugs and chamber and bore. The bore is where it can turn into a really hard to remove mess. Do a search for "Logman slide stop mod" and do it and you will never have to worry about "idiot scratches".
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February 22, 2013, 06:05 PM | #18 |
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For over 40 yrs on new and new to me guns all
I've been doing is :run a patch thru the barrel-visible inspection of the bore (today the bore snakes are great); wipe copious residue (if exists) on external surfaces and shoot away. |
February 22, 2013, 08:10 PM | #19 |
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A little off topic but there is a smple mod to prevent that idiot scrstch I have done it and it works great http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=214653
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