Mini-14 loads in 223?

[jambrdly]

Hello:

I have no prior experience loading for semi-autos. I know I have to crimp the cases and I have a die on order. Does anyone know of a safe, reliable load for the mini-14? I am given to understand that loads for semi-autos need to be on the "hot" side in order to cycle the action - which worries me as I usually keep to the milder side of things, load-wise. My favorite powder is IMR 3031 but I am willing to try other powders, if need be. I hope to use 55gr fmj bullets.

[riverwalker76]

My mini 14 tactical likes Accurate 2230 powder with Lake City Brass. I also buy the cheapest 55 gr. FMJ I can find, and put them over 24.5 gr. of Accurate 2230 with a CCI 450 Magnum Small Rifle Primer.

Although, your's might not like this load. My barrel is 16.2" while standard Minis are 20" .. I believe.

Also, double check your load book to make sure this load is within safe operating pressures for your load. I use "Modern Reloading 2nd Edition" by Richard Lee for most of my small caliber data. This load at 24.5 grains is right in the middle, and I've never had any ejection problems. They actually work better than most UMC factory loads for plinking.

Also, it's just a suggestion, but you might try adding a Lee Factory Crimp Die to your reloading arsenal. I've had a lot of luck with them, and they crimp the case just right.

[qwman68]

i load 60gr. sierra hollow point with 24.8gr. imr-4895 and i get some good groups with my 580 series mini.

[steve4102]

The mini has a gas system that will cycle just about anything you feed it.
BTW, it's not chamber pressure(hot loads) that cycles a semi like the mini, it's port pressure. Port pressure is the amount of gas generated by the burning powder that passes and enters the gas port. This amount of gas is determined my the burn rate of the powder, not the amount of powder. The slower the powder the more gas entering the port. With fast powders you can have high chamber pressures without enough port pressure to cycle the action. With slow powders you can sent the brass to the next county even with starting loads.
So, load the safe way, start at "Start" and work up, no need to start at max, the mini will cycle. If not switch to a slower burning powder, not more powder.

Here read this.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

[Sarge]

http://sargesrollcall.blogspot.com/2...ast.html#links

[Unclenick]

Jambrdly,

I see no reason to stress a semi-auto mechanism. There are adjustable gas blocks available that let you regulate the gas port flow for different port pressures if you decide you just have to run the slowest powder that can successfully chase a light bullet down the bore? But until you decide you really need that complexity in your life, I'll suggest what I've done with my own Mini-14, and that is to use IMR 4198 or H4198 with bullets 55 grains and under. Stoner designed the AR action around that powder, and it operates either gun just fine.

The 4198's are economical because they use 10-20% less total powder weight to achieve normal peak pressure. It's an excellent accuracy load powder. It won't drive the ejection too hard, but it burns fast enough that you won't tend to under-power the gas port with starting loads, as slower powders can. That's probably where the idea the loads had to be 'hot" came from? They don't. 4198 works particularly well with the 53 grain flat base Sierra MatchKings, if you decide to see how accurately you can get the gun to shoot? 55 gr. FMJ's are not match bullets, but if they are a good brand, like Hornady or Sierra or Lapua, they will work pretty well.

By the way, the match bullets have no crimp cannelure, and I have never crimped for the AR or Mini except for accuracy experiments to see if the cirmp helped (it didn't), and have never seen trouble result. But every gun is a law unto itself, so YMMV?

Because the Mini-14 has a floating firing pin, you have to take the precaution against slamfires of checking that every primer is for sure below flush with the case head. Just lay a straight edge across them and make sure you see a space. It's only about three to five thousandths, but you can see it. If you run your finger tip over them, you pretty quickly learn what they feel like when they are correct, and you can learn to check more quickly that way.

Winchester cases with either Winchester WSR or Federal 205 primers and the Hornady 55 grain FMJ seated to 2.200" COL and 20 grains of IMR 4198 are what my Mini likes. Start your workups from 18 grains.

[10-96]

+1, I don't crimp either. No need really. And for powder, I like Varget (It's not just for breakfast anymore!).

[riverwalker76]

Forgot to add .... Accurate 2230 is what the Marine Corps uses in their armorer's reloading arsenal, and it was designed just for the 223 Remington cartridge. Plus, it's only $19.99 a pound. Can't beat that!

[colospgsAVID]

I have used some guidance from steve4102 in an earlier thread I posted on this topic. I have found that a crimp is not necessary for the gun to function and my milder loads of RL-10x seemed to be most accurate under a 55 grain V-Max. I also had decent results with C/T Ballistic Silvertip at 50 grains. It was in an impromptu shooting session where I was shooting at various small objects at ranges from 100 to maybe 250 yards. I think you should work up. As I passed mid load levels accuracy seemed to taper off. My Mini cycled well at start loads with RL-10x. I am going to build some heavier bullet loads to see what I can do next. I just can't find a suitable powder locally yet. I want to try Speer 69 grain matchkings. Look up my threads, I have some Mini accuracy pics you might like to see. BTW I have built a bunch of FMJ loads to store for "just in case". I put a bit of a crimp on them with my Lee factory Crimp Die because they are stored in bulk containers. Just don't overdo it as you will see in another thread of mine.