|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
August 4, 2014, 01:02 PM | #1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: April 25, 2014
Posts: 5
|
Maintaining a oil finished rifle stock
I have a Browning BAR .30-06 Commerative, 100th year anniversary 2006 model. It is nickel plated with Gold inlays and has a oil finished Grade 3 or 4 Stock. Beautiful Rifle.
I have just purchased a Sako Hunter Stainless in a 6.5x55 Swede. It has a oil finished hand rubbed stock as well. Beretta recommends Lemon Oil with Bees Wax to maintain the stock. Browning recommends: Watco Danish Oil Finish or Deft Danish Oil Finish or Formby's Tung Oil Finish. I am leaning toward the Lemon Oil with Bees Wax as the others seem to be for final procedures for wood application finishes in the manufacturing process. I welcome any ideas or suggestions. Thanks. Byron Nix |
August 4, 2014, 01:26 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 22, 2011
Posts: 322
|
I use Scherell's Schaftol on all my fine oil finished stocks. I have found nothing that works better.
http://www.bitsofpieces.com/schaftol.html |
August 4, 2014, 03:32 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,247
|
If it is already oil finished, just use paste wax on it.
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services |
August 4, 2014, 03:49 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 1, 2010
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 4,556
|
Since this seems to be for preservation (collectible), where durability is not a concern, I would just use oil, or paste wax as recommended.
Tung Oil, like Birchwood-Casey's popular Tru-Oil, is a hardening oil that provides a hard, plastic-like coating on the wood as it seals the grain and waterproofs. They provide more protection against minor dings than oil alone- but it would change the finish of the rifle- not what you're looking for...
__________________
Remington 700/Savage Rebarreling /Action Blueprinting 07 FFL /Mosin-Nagant Custom Shop/Bent Bolts Genuine Cerakote Applicator www.biggorillagunworks.com |
August 4, 2014, 11:59 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7, 2008
Posts: 3,224
|
I prefer teakwood oil.
|
August 5, 2014, 03:16 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 26, 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 425
|
I built my first rifle stock while in high school under the careful eye of an older gunsmith mentor. He mixed his own blend of oil using primarily linseed oil, a touch of varnish and china drier, as I recall, and he recommended one coat of oil a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month for a year and one coat a year for life.
The exact formula was lost when my friend and mentor passed many years ago forcing me to search for a substitute. I didn't like one commercial "Linseed" oil because it obviously had way too much varnish in it (dried too quickly and didn't rub in worth a flip). I finally just diluted it down with pure boiled linseed oil until it was closer to the original oil. Seems to have worked out OK; here's the stock 60 years later: Beauty of a true oil finish is that small scratches are easily fixed by application of another coat of oil. Regards, hm
__________________
Gun Owners note: The Second Amendment is not about hunting! Join NRA @: http://membership.nrahq.org/ |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|