Stevens Model 87A 22lr Semi-Auto Rifle. (Reblued)

Baryngyl · July 12, 2010, 06:31 AM

In another thread I mentioned I was having my Stevens 87A that I got from my Dad blued, well I picked it up on the 5th.
Below you will find pictures, both before and after photos.
I ended up paying $60.00 for the bluing and a used replacement butt pad.
All the work/cleaning/polishing/bluing was done at Carl's Repair in Oakville, Washington.

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

Looks like it is going to limit me to 6 photos in a post, so if you want to see more you can check out a lot more photos at http://s834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/Baryngyl/87A/

Next thing I plan on doing is getting the stock fixed up a bit.

Michael Grace

RimfireChris · July 12, 2010, 09:09 AM

Looks like they did a frst rate job!

I'll have to write that place down, they're not far from me. I've been thinking about doing a bit of pawnshop trolling of late.

johnbt · July 14, 2010, 04:30 PM

So that's what they are supposed to look like. EVery one I've seen for 50 years looks like the before pic. Good deal.

JT

Miata Mike · July 14, 2010, 08:44 PM

I have a Montgomery Wards Model 87C that has some cheesy paint on the end of the stock, but it looks totally original. I picked it up for next to nothing with a cherry 870 Wingmaster that a coworker sold me when he moved to the Philippines. I have always been afraid to shoot it but it doesn't look all that bad for being like 70 years old.

I guess I need to haul it out of the gun safe and take a good look at it again.

riverwalker76 · July 14, 2010, 09:21 PM

That's a first rate job for $60!

Keep her oiled and she will outlast you.

Baryngyl · July 15, 2010, 05:21 AM

Hoping to eventually pass it on to my first born that is interested in guns (if I ever find Ms Right and have kids), if not then I will leave it to a Nephew/Niece or a friend.

Even if I had to reblue it every 10 to 15 years it will be worth it.

Michael Grace

SIGSHR · July 15, 2010, 05:01 PM

If it was mechanically sound and shooting well I'd have left it as is, has a little character. But superb worksmanship, and as you noted, it will become an heirloom.

Big Shrek · July 16, 2010, 02:38 AM

Grab a 6-pack of coarse-grit sanding sponges from Harbor Freight Tools.
Hand-sand the stock until it's clean. Stain using ANYTHING BUT MINWAX.
Clearcoat with your favorite polyurethane (Minwax ok there) or Tru-Oil.

Reason I say don't use Minwax, it's the cheapest stain on the market...horrible stuff.
You usually have to use a separate wood conditioner, which is already in High Quality stains.

If you've ever used quality stains, you quickly discover why they are so much better than Minwax.
General Finishes, Old Dad's, Wood You brand, Formby's...are all high-quality.

I equate Minwax stains to bulk Remington Golden Bullets...
you'll get a few good shots off, then the problems start

Doyle · July 16, 2010, 07:38 AM

For working stocks (not show pieces) I've had my best luck using Citristrip to remove the old finish. Light sanding to remove the scratches. NO stain. Minwax brand Tung Oil finish as a coating. The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is really just a wiping varnish. It takes about 3 or 4 light coats to build up a nice hard finish. You wipe it on with a folded up piece of cheese cloth and let it dry for 24 hrs. Flood the first coat pretty heavily and wipe it down after letting it soak for a few minutes. When dried overnight, rub it down with some steel wool. Blow off the dust and recoat.

July 12, 2010, 06:31 AM	#1
Baryngyl Member Join Date: April 29, 2010 Posts: 67	Stevens Model 87A 22lr Semi-Auto Rifle. (Reblued) In another thread I mentioned I was having my Stevens 87A that I got from my Dad blued, well I picked it up on the 5th. Below you will find pictures, both before and after photos. I ended up paying $60.00 for the bluing and a used replacement butt pad. All the work/cleaning/polishing/bluing was done at Carl's Repair in Oakville, Washington. BEFORE AFTER BEFORE AFTER BEFORE AFTER Looks like it is going to limit me to 6 photos in a post, so if you want to see more you can check out a lot more photos at http://s834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/Baryngyl/87A/ Next thing I plan on doing is getting the stock fixed up a bit. Michael Grace Last edited by Baryngyl; July 12, 2010 at 06:40 AM. Reason: To add info I left out.

July 12, 2010, 09:09 AM	#2
RimfireChris Senior Member Join Date: April 27, 2010 Location: Pacific Northwest Posts: 421	Looks like they did a frst rate job! I'll have to write that place down, they're not far from me. I've been thinking about doing a bit of pawnshop trolling of late. __________________ Mal-"Jayne, how many weapons you plan on takin', you only got the two arms." Jayne-"Well I just get excitable as to choice-like to keep my options open."

July 14, 2010, 09:21 PM	#5
riverwalker76 Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 993	That's a first rate job for $60! Keep her oiled and she will outlast you. __________________ *Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto* - “You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass.”

July 16, 2010, 02:38 AM	#8
Big Shrek Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: NorthWest Florida Posts: 1,358	Grab a 6-pack of coarse-grit sanding sponges from Harbor Freight Tools. Hand-sand the stock until it's clean. Stain using ANYTHING BUT MINWAX. Clearcoat with your favorite polyurethane (Minwax ok there) or Tru-Oil. Reason I say don't use Minwax, it's the cheapest stain on the market...horrible stuff. You usually have to use a separate wood conditioner, which is already in High Quality stains. If you've ever used quality stains, you quickly discover why they are so much better than Minwax. General Finishes, Old Dad's, Wood You brand, Formby's...are all high-quality. I equate Minwax stains to bulk Remington Golden Bullets... you'll get a few good shots off, then the problems start __________________ Marlin Specialist Calico Specialist A gun should be a tool in the hands of a deadly weapon, not a deadly weapon in the hands of a tool.

July 14, 2010, 04:30 PM	#3
johnbt Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 1999 Location: Richmond, Virginia USA Posts: 6,004	So that's what they are supposed to look like. EVery one I've seen for 50 years looks like the before pic. Good deal. JT

July 14, 2010, 08:44 PM	#4
Miata Mike Senior Member Join Date: May 22, 2010 Location: North East WI Posts: 418	I have a Montgomery Wards Model 87C that has some cheesy paint on the end of the stock, but it looks totally original. I picked it up for next to nothing with a cherry 870 Wingmaster that a coworker sold me when he moved to the Philippines. I have always been afraid to shoot it but it doesn't look all that bad for being like 70 years old. I guess I need to haul it out of the gun safe and take a good look at it again.

July 15, 2010, 05:21 AM	#6
Baryngyl Member Join Date: April 29, 2010 Posts: 67	Hoping to eventually pass it on to my first born that is interested in guns (if I ever find Ms Right and have kids), if not then I will leave it to a Nephew/Niece or a friend. Even if I had to reblue it every 10 to 15 years it will be worth it. Michael Grace

July 15, 2010, 05:01 PM	#7
SIGSHR Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2005 Posts: 4,700	If it was mechanically sound and shooting well I'd have left it as is, has a little character. But superb worksmanship, and as you noted, it will become an heirloom.

July 16, 2010, 07:38 AM	#9
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	For working stocks (not show pieces) I've had my best luck using Citristrip to remove the old finish. Light sanding to remove the scratches. NO stain. Minwax brand Tung Oil finish as a coating. The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is really just a wiping varnish. It takes about 3 or 4 light coats to build up a nice hard finish. You wipe it on with a folded up piece of cheese cloth and let it dry for 24 hrs. Flood the first coat pretty heavily and wipe it down after letting it soak for a few minutes. When dried overnight, rub it down with some steel wool. Blow off the dust and recoat.