7mm remington brass

[cjaymiller]

I am just getting started into reloading and I am looking to buy some new or 1x fired brass for my 7mm remington mag. Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I am also looking for an RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press to buy. I have found the kits but I only want the press, dont have any need for the rest of the components.

[LHB1]

I would recommend buying new brass or ammo all of the same brand rather than starting with mixed brass fired in another gun. The only time I ever had any real problems with handloads was when loading some ammo for a friend using mixed/pick up brass he provided. It was the same load I used but showed major pressure signs in his gun. We pulled the bullets, salvaged the components, got some new brass, loaded the EXACT same load, and the ammo worked perfectly (just as it should have) in his gun. Starting with new brass just eliminates one more possible source of problems.

[TheNatureBoy]

Do what you want but I wouldn't recommend buying 1x used brass either. I purchased some at a gun show from a Georgia Arms booth and half of it I couldn't use which suggests that its been fired more than once. I might add that the Georgia Arms rep told me that it WAS once fired. As long as I am able to purchase new brass I will do so.

[flashhole]

I can sell you some 1x fired 7mm Rem Mag brass. I have it advertised on Greybeard for $22 shipped for 50 pieces. The cautions are warranted because you always take a chance. This is all brass I fired in my Sauer 202 before I stared reloading. Here's the picture.



Here's the link to Greybeard. I sold quite a bit of brass there and everyone is very happy with their purchases. If you are interested send me a PM.

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.p...,185045.0.html

[James R. Burke]

Most the time I buy new unfired brass, or use brass that was once fired by myself. I have been using Lapua. It cost more but not much prep work, and it really holds up for along time. Before that I used alot of Winchester. It is a very good brass. There are many good makes out there if you do your part on the prep. Stick to the same make for the load you are making up. If you switch anything start at the beging again, and work up. You can never have to many manuals they are a must. Have fun!

[williamd]

Check MidwayUSA

[Dr. Strangelove]

I just buy a couple of boxes on sale and shoot them, or look for non-reloaders at the range.

Once fired brass? That's kind of like a once (well you know) wife. Unless you watch it come out of the box, you never know.

[cjaymiller]

I have around 100 rounds that I shot before, but they have been reloaded and shot again. The guy I had reloading stopped doing it and that is why I am going to start. I dont know how many times my old brass has been shot, so I thought I would start over. I just didn't know if I should start with 1x fired or brand new brass. I have found (50) rounds of new brass for around $28.00 but I didn't know if that was a good price. I was also told to go with the RCBS Rock Chucker press and Lee dies. I was told the Lee dies are better than the RCBS. Anyone have a different opinion? The best load my gun has shot is 70 grains of reloader 22, remington 9 1/2 primer, and Sierra 150 grain HPBT match.

[GeauxTide]

I use Lee dies only for pistol. RCBS and Lyman are the standard, for me. With the price of brass going up, buy two boxes of Winchester grey box ammo at Academy or Walmart. I've had the best luck over the years with Win Brass (no nickel).

[flashhole]

If your buddy doesn't reload any more maybe he will sell you his stuff.

[flashhole]

This is a sample of a tool set needed to load a case. I showed the 7mm RM dies.

In the center you will see the name LEE - These are the small case length trim parts that comprise the Lock Stud and Cutter (mine has the ball handle) and the Case Length Gage with Shell Holder. I like to use a Nut Driver to hold the Lock Stud if I trim by hand but most of the time I chuck it up in a drill. A specific Case Length Gage and Shell Holder are required for each different cartridge.

The deburring tool knocks the burrs off after the case is trimmed to length.

The dies in the photo are clockwise from the tall one in the rear - Hornady Seat Die with Micrometer Stem, Hornady FL size die, Lee Collet Nec Die, and Lee Factory Crimp Die. I like to crimp as a separate step but the seat die has a built in crimp feature when properly adjusted. I don't very often FL size unless the shoulder needs to be bumped back and mostly use the Collet Neck Die. Brass lasts longer with this die.

The press is the Lee Classic Cast Turret, the turrets are interchangable with a simple lift/drop and twist motion. I have several turrets that I use. The press has the primer arm so you don't need a separate device but most everyone does. It's just a matter of what kind you like. You need the proper shell holder too. This is not the same shell holder as the one that comes with the Case Length Gage. The press comes with an Auto Indexing feature that is disabled by removing the cam bar. I generally use mine in manual mode.

You will need a simple scale. This one is an old Redding. My powder trickler is also a Redding. They all do the same function. I like to use a long handled spoon when doing the coarse powder drop. Also shown is the Lee Dipper Cup that came with my set of Lee Dies. I really like the simplicity of the dipper cups and try to develop a load that is friendly to dipper cup usage.

A funnel with the appropriate neck opening is needed to charge the case.

I like Imperial Die Sizing Wax as a case lube when resizing.

On top of the case lube tin is a hex nut that I drilled a hole in. I use this in conjunction with my caliper to set the length because bullet tips can be irregular and cause eroneous readings when mesuring COL. It requires you figure out the proper seating depth based on the ogive of the bullet and its relative position to the lands in your bore but it is much more accurate and repeatable.

I like the EJM Primer Pocket Uniformer and I use it to clean my primer pockets.

Of course you will need all the compontents you intend to load.

This is the stuff I pack up in a tool box when I set up to reload at the range.

[rogn]

If i hadnt fired the brass myself, Id definitely just buy new brass from one of the online sources-Midsouthshooterssupply, midwayusa, powder valley--etc and save myself some headaches and some money as well. If you have a need to fire some factory ammo, fine, but if this is just to provide brass then the new brass is the better idea. Any of the larger capacity cases tend to be harder on throats and bores than the more conservative cases-7-08, or 7X57---etc. Idont have a 7 RM, but my 7WSM only gets new brass or brass fired in its chamber.. Only my $0.02

[Saint Dennis]

I recognise that this wont work for everyone, but I volunteer at my gun club deer rifle site in. I watch for people with the calibre and brass brand I want and "cherry pick" once fired brass. A popular round like 7mm, I could get 50 or more rounds of Federal or WW pretty easy in a day. They would not be the same lot, but this aint for bench rest use.

[oneoldsap]

Over the years I have pretty much switched to Redding dies ! They are well machined and polished , and require no tools to adjust them .